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I've never had work done at a Pep Boys, but I'd be willing to bet that around the US they have a handful of highly skilled alignment mechnics, mostly moderately skilled mechanics, and some I wouldn't trust to change my oil. You won't know whick your local store has.
Dealers are a little better, although they can be too quick to accept settings within the manufacturers broad tolerances.
I'm most comfortable using an small owner-operated alignment shop. Get a recommendation from a couple of tire shops who service performance cars but don't do their own alignment.
The Z is -1.00 front and -1.25 rear on the camber and that is really aggressive for road racing.
Far from "agressive" for the track. I run -1.2 front and -1.0 rear on my DD / weekend warrior and have almost perfect treadwear with the combined driving. I'd go to -1.5 in the front if I could get it there. (0 toe in front and slight toe-in in back.)
Far from "agressive" for the track. I run -1.2 front and -1.0 rear on my DD / weekend warrior and have almost perfect treadwear with the combined driving. I'd go to -1.5 in the front if I could get it there. (0 toe in front and slight toe-in in back.)
Aw hell, OK sure for real, real, road racing that camber ain't ****. I know that. I'm talking to make a point. I am not telling you what camber to use for real, real, road racing conditions. I'm not a road racer. I'm trying to give an explanation of what camber will help in the curves OR HURT on the highway. I keep hearing that "Far from aggressive" stuff until it grows old.
Do you disagree with my camber recommendations for the best mileage on the highway? That is what the OP is asking. He's not asking what to use for racing. Personally, I could give a **** about racing camber because I don't race the car. I use the car for long road trips and around town cruising. I don't need camber.