operating temperature
So what is the optimum? Is my car exhibiting normal temperatures (1200 miles on it) or is it running too hot? If it is normal but should be lower for better performance what is the best means of achieving this? Will lowering the operating temperature affect the emission control system and engage the CEL?
Thanks in advance,
NS









The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
This will also reduce pollutants.
http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html


This will also reduce pollutants.
http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html
"by Steve Jack
A few of you good folks must have spotted other articles that I have done either in print or online about this subject. At the request of a few folks here I am putting this up for what it's worth and expanding some information about this as well. The argument is about running 160 degree thermostats and the good and/or bad results. Now keep in mind that thermostats have absolutely NO effect on your systems ability to cool, simply a regulator of the range it operates in. So, if you think a 160 will cure an engine running at 220 with a 188thermostat ...forgetaboutit! This is not about cooling capacity at all.
The graph to follow illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance your engine. Cooler water makes horsepower and warmer water minimizes engine cylinder and bearing wear...or so it's thought, but only to their own limits and ranges. There is a range where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That number lies in the 175-180 degree range as shown by the overlap in the chart which correspondingly requires a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW, higher operating temperatures of today's engines are to fight combustion by-products and pollution. Also, engine oils are designed to work over a specific temperature range with optimum performance starting at temperatures that require the coolant to be the very same 175ish range. And don't forget the moisture issue. Have you ever seen water vapor coming from your tailpipes? Sure..and the very same thing happens INSIDE your engine. Your engine forms moisture inside when it cools and condensates on the walls of the inside. This moisture the is washed down into the oil when started and then awaits vaporization by internal temperatures rising enough to bring the moisture to the appropriate corrected vapor point (boiling). If enough moisture is left behind it combines with combustion byproducts to form acids that become dissolved in the oil itself. The oil becomes more acidic as the age of the oil progresses and picks on certain parts eventually. Also moisture will corrode other surfaces. So, it's important to get these engines to a satisfying operating temperature as soon as possible. Usually oil pooling temps are about 30 to 40 degrees higher than the coolant temps. This is a generalised statement and can vary with load and engine design but you can see why you want your oil over 212 degrees to boil out the moiture immediately! A 160 thermostat usually does NOT accomplish this temperature."
and to answer your question,, its summer time and your temps look normal for stock pcm settings and stat.

Carl
Last edited by carlrx7; Jun 24, 2008 at 02:08 PM.
"by Steve Jack
A few of you good folks must have spotted other articles that I have done either in print or online about this subject. At the request of a few folks here I am putting this up for what it's worth and expanding some information about this as well. The argument is about running 160 degree thermostats and the good and/or bad results. Now keep in mind that thermostats have absolutely NO effect on your systems ability to cool, simply a regulator of the range it operates in. So, if you think a 160 will cure an engine running at 220 with a 188thermostat ...forgetaboutit! This is not about cooling capacity at all.
The graph to follow illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance your engine. Cooler water makes horsepower and warmer water minimizes engine cylinder and bearing wear...or so it's thought, but only to their own limits and ranges. There is a range where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That number lies in the 175-180 degree range as shown by the overlap in the chart which correspondingly requires a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW, higher operating temperatures of today's engines are to fight combustion by-products and pollution. Also, engine oils are designed to work over a specific temperature range with optimum performance starting at temperatures that require the coolant to be the very same 175ish range. And don't forget the moisture issue. Have you ever seen water vapor coming from your tailpipes? Sure..and the very same thing happens INSIDE your engine. Your engine forms moisture inside when it cools and condensates on the walls of the inside. This moisture the is washed down into the oil when started and then awaits vaporization by internal temperatures rising enough to bring the moisture to the appropriate corrected vapor point (boiling). If enough moisture is left behind it combines with combustion byproducts to form acids that become dissolved in the oil itself. The oil becomes more acidic as the age of the oil progresses and picks on certain parts eventually. Also moisture will corrode other surfaces. So, it's important to get these engines to a satisfying operating temperature as soon as possible. Usually oil pooling temps are about 30 to 40 degrees higher than the coolant temps. This is a generalised statement and can vary with load and engine design but you can see why you want your oil over 212 degrees to boil out the moiture immediately! A 160 thermostat usually does NOT accomplish this temperature."
Hey..... that's my article!
Some other stuff to go along with.
I see the reference to electric water pumps. YIKES
Electric water pumps will not have the peak output to cool your application at all! Stay away from them.. and today's magically designed high output mechanical pumps only take up a horse or two at the most.. so no real stout savings there!
Lastly but not leastly.... coolant temperatures never translate to peak combustion temps (and power) per se. The trick for our car is coolant temps around 200ish.... oil at 25 degrees higher and air intake temps as cool as you can muster for horseys.
FWIW, just bought a 2008 ... and found this place by shear luck. Hope to poke around and learn from all of you!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...a/1124/ect.jpg







Mine runs between 195 and 220.








