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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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Default operating temperature

I have noticed in several threads a reference to engine temperature in the 165F-185F range with suggestions this may be the preferred operating temperature. My 2008 LS3/M6 seems to run at 205F-215F most of the time, and is running a bit hotter now that summer is finally here, more likely to see it at or above the 215 mark on the gauge. It may move higher on the gauge as August approaches.

So what is the optimum? Is my car exhibiting normal temperatures (1200 miles on it) or is it running too hot? If it is normal but should be lower for better performance what is the best means of achieving this? Will lowering the operating temperature affect the emission control system and engage the CEL?

Thanks in advance,

NS
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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When you say engine temp, are you referring to oil?
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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If this is water, it is normal. Mine runs between 195 and 220.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by turmat
If this is water, it is normal. Mine runs between 195 and 220.
Mine too
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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same here.
Originally Posted by turmat
If this is water, it is normal. Mine runs between 195 and 220.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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I've got an 06 LS2, but my engine coolant temps usually run 198 - 205 deg.. Sometimes gets up to 208-210 if it's a pretty warm day and heavy traffic or if I've been getting on it a little.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Take the fuel rail covers off....get 10 degrees cooler.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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Your temps are normal. If you ever get a tune, you will want to get a 160 deg. t-stat. That will bring down the temps, guard against possible detonation, and keep your ECU from pulling any timing.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 12:19 AM
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There is an article in the August issue of Vette magazine about installing an electric water pump. The article states: "According to Meziere, for the typical Corvette LS, you probably want to run a little warmer than you would on an iron block engine, so we recommend a thermostat with a near stock temperature be chosen."

This will also reduce pollutants.

http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by turmat
If this is water, it is normal. Mine runs between 195 and 220.


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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TommyV
Your temps are normal. If you ever get a tune, you will want to get a 160 deg. t-stat. That will bring down the temps, guard against possible detonation, and keep your ECU from pulling any timing.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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Yes, I was referring to water temperatures. Thanks to all who answered.

NS
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Pozzo
There is an article in the August issue of Vette magazine about installing an electric water pump. The article states: "According to Meziere, for the typical Corvette LS, you probably want to run a little warmer than you would on an iron block engine, so we recommend a thermostat with a near stock temperature be chosen."

This will also reduce pollutants.

http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html
Nice read. Most engine wear is from combustion acids and not "mechanical" wear.

"by Steve Jack


A few of you good folks must have spotted other articles that I have done either in print or online about this subject. At the request of a few folks here I am putting this up for what it's worth and expanding some information about this as well. The argument is about running 160 degree thermostats and the good and/or bad results. Now keep in mind that thermostats have absolutely NO effect on your systems ability to cool, simply a regulator of the range it operates in. So, if you think a 160 will cure an engine running at 220 with a 188thermostat ...forgetaboutit! This is not about cooling capacity at all.

The graph to follow illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance your engine. Cooler water makes horsepower and warmer water minimizes engine cylinder and bearing wear...or so it's thought, but only to their own limits and ranges. There is a range where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That number lies in the 175-180 degree range as shown by the overlap in the chart which correspondingly requires a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW, higher operating temperatures of today's engines are to fight combustion by-products and pollution. Also, engine oils are designed to work over a specific temperature range with optimum performance starting at temperatures that require the coolant to be the very same 175ish range. And don't forget the moisture issue. Have you ever seen water vapor coming from your tailpipes? Sure..and the very same thing happens INSIDE your engine. Your engine forms moisture inside when it cools and condensates on the walls of the inside. This moisture the is washed down into the oil when started and then awaits vaporization by internal temperatures rising enough to bring the moisture to the appropriate corrected vapor point (boiling). If enough moisture is left behind it combines with combustion byproducts to form acids that become dissolved in the oil itself. The oil becomes more acidic as the age of the oil progresses and picks on certain parts eventually. Also moisture will corrode other surfaces. So, it's important to get these engines to a satisfying operating temperature as soon as possible. Usually oil pooling temps are about 30 to 40 degrees higher than the coolant temps. This is a generalised statement and can vary with load and engine design but you can see why you want your oil over 212 degrees to boil out the moiture immediately! A 160 thermostat usually does NOT accomplish this temperature."
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 11:20 AM
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I have an 08 with highway temps @ 197 F and city 200 to 215 F. The fans kick about 225 F, only occurs on really hot days in bumper to bumper traffic or the engine was shut down briefly and restarted (refueling).
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 12:58 PM
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My '05 ranges from about 192 cruising to about 215 in traffic.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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WHT is correct on all points. A cool running motor will get sick. It's been that way as long as I can remember.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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the standard is your coolant temp will be approx 100 degrees over ambient temp at cruise. sooo,, with the stock thermostat the lowest you will see is 187. there are 160,170,180,187 stats advailable, just make sure its for a ls3 engine.

and to answer your question,, its summer time and your temps look normal for stock pcm settings and stat.



Carl

Last edited by carlrx7; Jun 24, 2008 at 02:08 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WHT
Nice read. Most engine wear is from combustion acids and not "mechanical" wear.

"by Steve Jack


A few of you good folks must have spotted other articles that I have done either in print or online about this subject. At the request of a few folks here I am putting this up for what it's worth and expanding some information about this as well. The argument is about running 160 degree thermostats and the good and/or bad results. Now keep in mind that thermostats have absolutely NO effect on your systems ability to cool, simply a regulator of the range it operates in. So, if you think a 160 will cure an engine running at 220 with a 188thermostat ...forgetaboutit! This is not about cooling capacity at all.

The graph to follow illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance your engine. Cooler water makes horsepower and warmer water minimizes engine cylinder and bearing wear...or so it's thought, but only to their own limits and ranges. There is a range where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That number lies in the 175-180 degree range as shown by the overlap in the chart which correspondingly requires a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW, higher operating temperatures of today's engines are to fight combustion by-products and pollution. Also, engine oils are designed to work over a specific temperature range with optimum performance starting at temperatures that require the coolant to be the very same 175ish range. And don't forget the moisture issue. Have you ever seen water vapor coming from your tailpipes? Sure..and the very same thing happens INSIDE your engine. Your engine forms moisture inside when it cools and condensates on the walls of the inside. This moisture the is washed down into the oil when started and then awaits vaporization by internal temperatures rising enough to bring the moisture to the appropriate corrected vapor point (boiling). If enough moisture is left behind it combines with combustion byproducts to form acids that become dissolved in the oil itself. The oil becomes more acidic as the age of the oil progresses and picks on certain parts eventually. Also moisture will corrode other surfaces. So, it's important to get these engines to a satisfying operating temperature as soon as possible. Usually oil pooling temps are about 30 to 40 degrees higher than the coolant temps. This is a generalised statement and can vary with load and engine design but you can see why you want your oil over 212 degrees to boil out the moiture immediately! A 160 thermostat usually does NOT accomplish this temperature."

Hey..... that's my article!

Some other stuff to go along with.

I see the reference to electric water pumps. YIKES

Electric water pumps will not have the peak output to cool your application at all! Stay away from them.. and today's magically designed high output mechanical pumps only take up a horse or two at the most.. so no real stout savings there!

Lastly but not leastly.... coolant temperatures never translate to peak combustion temps (and power) per se. The trick for our car is coolant temps around 200ish.... oil at 25 degrees higher and air intake temps as cool as you can muster for horseys.

FWIW, just bought a 2008 ... and found this place by shear luck. Hope to poke around and learn from all of you!
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:05 AM
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If you want better performance then lower coolant temps are one way to get it. Chuck @ Corvettes of Westchester won't do his tune on a car unless it has a 160° T'Stat. The ECM pulls timing at coolant temps above aprx 200°. A 160° T'Stat and fan mod will keep coolant temps below 200° most of the time.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...a/1124/ect.jpg
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:26 AM
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Besides running temp of engine, which is hot in Southern CA, there is another issue. When outside air temp is about 100 degrees, like a summer daytime drive in Riverside or San Bernadino counties, everything in the center console storage area will cook and the car will smell like melted plastic. I fried a cell phone in there and melted a pair of sunglasses. It helps to blast the AC down to the console area. Do not put anything in there with any kind of battery, it can explode!
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