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Trunk release button failure

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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #1  
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Default Trunk release button failure

It seems my trunk release button, the one above the license plate on the rear, has failed. It feels like it isn't popping back down into place after I push it. So, for now, I need to use the button on the fob or the dash to open it. Does anyone know if there is a replacement part number for the button and if so how easy it is to replace?

Thanks!
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by openhelix
It seems my trunk release button, the one above the license plate on the rear, has failed. It feels like it isn't popping back down into place after I push it. So, for now, I need to use the button on the fob or the dash to open it. Does anyone know if there is a replacement part number for the button and if so how easy it is to replace?

Thanks!
Mine failed and I had it replaced under warranty so I don't know the cost. From the paperwork, it lists "N2388 Switch - Rear Compartment - Lid Release, Part number: 15259992 Switch.

Hope this helps.
John
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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I just checked the GM parts direct website and it looks like it would cost about $13 from them. Here is a link: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

If you fill in the make/model/etc it will take you to a page you can select "trunk lid", then click on "lid and components". That will locate the switch but it doesn't give the part number. On that same page in the upper right corner you can type in the part number from above and it will also pull up a similar line item with the same prices so I'm sure it's the correct item you need. I tried just the part number on the first page the link takes you to and it failed to find the part I believe you need so try what I just described first.

John

Last edited by jwswanson; Oct 29, 2008 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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It fails because it has dirt in it which prevents the spring action from allowing the switch to deactuate. It can be fixed and quite easily if you are at all mechanically inclined. I fixed mine on my '05.

Get to it by removing the inboard passenger side taillight (one screw) and reach in to unplug the plug on the back side of the switch. Pop the switch out of the bracket, take the rubber boot off of the switch and clean inside the boot and the button of the switch. You should feel the switch button is internally spring loaded. If you have contact cleaner, WD40, or something similar, give it a shot. Put a little dielectric tune up grease inside the rubber boot, reassemble and reinstall it.

Fixed mine over 2 years ago and hasn't been a problem since.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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Good to know it's a DIY fix. Thanks for the info.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by openhelix
It seems my trunk release button, the one above the license plate on the rear, has failed. It feels like it isn't popping back down into place after I push it. So, for now, I need to use the button on the fob or the dash to open it. Does anyone know if there is a replacement part number for the button and if so how easy it is to replace?

Thanks!


You can purchase the Lift Gate Release Switch
from Gene Culley (GMPartsHouse.com) at this link:

http://www.gmpartshouseusa.com/partl...layCatalogid=0


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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FAÇADE-C6
You can purchase the Lift Gate Release Switch
from Gene Culley (GMPartsHouse.com) at this link:

http://www.gmpartshouseusa.com/partl...layCatalogid=0


This link has the same part for $15.34, where my link comes up with $12.27. Not a big deal except in percentages. Useful information if you are buying more expensive items.
John
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dbdave
It fails because it has dirt in it which prevents the spring action from allowing the switch to deactuate. It can be fixed and quite easily if you are at all mechanically inclined. I fixed mine on my '05.

Get to it by removing the inboard passenger side taillight (one screw) and reach in to unplug the plug on the back side of the switch. Pop the switch out of the bracket, take the rubber boot off of the switch and clean inside the boot and the button of the switch. You should feel the switch button is internally spring loaded. If you have contact cleaner, WD40, or something similar, give it a shot. Put a little dielectric tune up grease inside the rubber boot, reassemble and reinstall it.

Fixed mine over 2 years ago and hasn't been a problem since.
After you do all of the above, coat the switch with some plumbers clay ($3 at Home Depot) This will prevent dirt from entering the switch. Did mine 3 or more years ago never had a problem since.
You could always bring it back to the dealer and get the updated switch and a few scratches on the car!
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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I learned something new today. I didn't even realize there was a switch back there. I've always used the button on the dash or the fob.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RACN1320
I learned something new today. I didn't even realize there was a switch back there. I've always used the button on the dash or the fob.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RACN1320
I learned something new today. I didn't even realize there was a switch back there. I've always used the button on the dash or the fob.
I've found its easier to use the switch than dig around in my pocket to find the fob...same with locking the car, I just hit the button on the door on the way out. You know about the keyhole back there right?
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Shortimer
Good to know it's a DIY fix. Thanks for the info.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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My switch works, but the trunk does not fully open. I have to press the switch and at the same time shove my fingers under the trunk lid and pry it up. Total pain in the ***.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by spinalator
My switch works, but the trunk does not fully open. I have to press the switch and at the same time shove my fingers under the trunk lid and pry it up. Total pain in the ***.
Sounds like a minor adjustment would fix that. I look at mine tomorrow and get back to you.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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QUOTE=c6vette;1567668804]Sounds like a minor adjustment would fix that. I look at mine tomorrow and get back to you.[/QUOTE]

[

That would be awsome. I really don't want to bring it to the dealer for minor bull**** and either have to wait for it or pick it up later in the day.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by spinalator
QUOTE=c6vette;1567668804]Sounds like a minor adjustment would fix that. I look at mine tomorrow and get back to you.
[

That would be awsome. I really don't want to bring it to the dealer for minor bull**** and either have to wait for it or pick it up later in the day.[/QUOTE]
Eric,
Both the trunk lid striker plate and the plate on the body are adjustable. Before you move either , mark the position with a pencil, so you always go back to the current setting. I would start with the lid stricker. Loosen it with a torx driver and move it forward slightly. It can be moved forward ,back, left or right , so its going to be trail and error.
If you go after the bottom striker you must remove the 2 black buttons on the rug to get at it. If you destroy the buttons ,don't worry , they are available at any auto store. Just save the screw end ,so you can replace with the proper size.
If you are not handy and the above seems complicated, the next step would be the dealer. Chances are he would probably be as qualified as any of us. Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Al
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Default Mine failed also

2008 C6 with zero problems other roof creaking and now the switch has failed. I hate to take the car into the local hevy dealer because of the high chance of scratching the black paint. I watched the lot boy take the car around the back and he leaned on the back of the car with his jeans. Never occurred to him that black shows any tiny mark. I will try the fix myself at home this weekend. Thanks for the data. I love the forum for this very reason!! By the way the GM fix for the roof worked and it has been 4 months without a sound!!
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dbdave
It fails because it has dirt in it which prevents the spring action from allowing the switch to deactuate. It can be fixed and quite easily if you are at all mechanically inclined. I fixed mine on my '05.

Get to it by removing the inboard passenger side taillight (one screw) and reach in to unplug the plug on the back side of the switch. Pop the switch out of the bracket, take the rubber boot off of the switch and clean inside the boot and the button of the switch. You should feel the switch button is internally spring loaded. If you have contact cleaner, WD40, or something similar, give it a shot. Put a little dielectric tune up grease inside the rubber boot, reassemble and reinstall it.

Fixed mine over 2 years ago and hasn't been a problem since.
I get my arm in and get my hand on the switch, but can't tell how to unplug it or get it to "pop" out of the bracket. Does it just pull out and press back in? No screws holding it in? Thanks for any assistance!
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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Default Lid release

Mine stopped working within the first week of picking up my new car! I never bothered to take it in as I'm waiting for something else to go wrong before bringing it in to the dealer. Other than the button, the cars been running great without any other problems for over a year now.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by geewez
Mine stopped working within the first week of picking up my new car! I never bothered to take it in as I'm waiting for something else to go wrong before bringing it in to the dealer. Other than the button, the cars been running great without any other problems for over a year now.
I think mine is stuck and I might be able to get it working again if I can just get it out. I think it is clogged with dirt and grime. If anyone has a diagram or any specific info as to getting it out that would help a lot!
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