Does anyone know where to get them. I may end making some if I can't get any locally. Also just got back Auto Zone and they no longer stock the Duplicolor caliper kits - NAPA does if anyone is looking for them.

 

I made my own. Go buy 4 hockey pucks for $4, 4 eye-bolts with washers and nuts. Drill holes in the center of each hockey puck and counter sink the back side of the puck for the nut. Put the eye bolt into the puck, secure with nut on other side. Done.

I'll post pics in a few minutes to help.

 

P.S. I made these pucks for painting the calipers too! Used the Duplicolor blue (purchased from the local NAPA as well). While the wheels were off, it was a great time to clean the inside of them thoroughly!

 

Instead of using a nut on the bolt, use a Tee nut.

 

Helpful points when painting with the Duplicolor kit:

A few things I learned along the way.

1 - Make sure the calipers are CLEAN. The cleaner that is provided in the kit is brake cleaner. Use the cleaner with a clean tooth brush and scrub every nook and cranny (I only have 2500 miles on mine and keep the car clean so it wasn't hard to do. I did cover the fender and door with old towels so no overspray would get on the paint and damage the clearcoat.

2 - Take the calipers off the spindles (do not remove the brake line), remove the pads from the spindles, mask the spinde area, then remount the calipers before painting. Calipers should be mounted before painting.

3 - Don't use the brush in the kit. It sheds bristles and you'll end up with bristles in the paint on the caliper. I was warned about this in advance so I went to a hardware store and got good brushes.

4 - Don't overapply the paint on the caliper. You won't get complete coverage in one coat. I put on 3 lite coats on each caliper with about a 20 minute dry time between each coat (I did this in my garage with a heater - it was about 65-70 degrees inside - I also used a heat lamp to help cure the paint a little faster). Also, doing it in a garage eliminates wind and the dust particles that are carried with it.

5 - Paint right over the CORVETTE lettering on the front calipers just like it is the rest of the caliper. After the final dry of the third coat, use a SHARP razor blade (I got new ones from a local CVS) and shave off the paint from the lettering. It comes right off nice and clean and looks GREAT.

That's about it. It was pretty simple, however with a 20 minute tact time between coats * 3 coats * 4 wheels = a lot of time. But it is well worth it!

Hope this helps.

 

Check this thread. I bought the round ones from http://www.bavauto.com and they work great. They just snap into place and I left 'em on. Peace of mind!

 

I went to the site and they ask for year and make bmw which ones did you use

 

This is exactly what I did. Save yourself $70 and just go the Hockey Puck route. There is absolutely no difference what so ever in their functionality.

 

What is a Tee nut?

Also, what is the purpose of the eye-hook sticking up?

 

If you have that eye hook at just the right height, you can put it into the jacking slots beneath the car, twist it, and the puck will lock into place.

Mine are similar but I use two pucks one stacked on top of the other, but one works fine.

I drilled no hole into the top puck and used an eye hook with wood screw/ self tapping threads on it.

That went through the the first puck and I super glued a bottom puck onto the bottom of top puck. That gave me a two puck thickness.

 

Yes, that makes a lot of sense. I used a small block of wood, I like the eye-in-puck idea much better.

 

Thanks.

I started with two pucks but I could not get the jack under the pucks when the pucks were installed in the slot on the underside of the frame. I even have a low-profile floorjack (apparently not low-profile enough). That's why the pic looking at the bottom side has a funny finish on the puck. I originally 5-minute epoxy-ed two pucks together and later had to break them apart. One puck is fine. There is ample clearance between the jack and rocker panel with one puck.

Glad I could help!

 

Ecklers has them.

 

If you find that they don't sell hockey pucks in Utah as I found in the south, there are a couple of people selling the hockey puck solution for ~$25 delivered on that auction site that must not be mentioned. The guy who sold me mine is not selling at the moment or I would recommend his.

 

Great innovation. Just for grins what is the diameter of the eye on the eye bolt or the size of the threaded shaft of the bolt?
Thanks.

Saving money for on items like this is great. allows additional mods to be done.

Mike

 

It's a standard size that you can pick up at any hardware store. I say this becuase I don't remember what I bought. It just looked "about right".

So... I took a set of dial calipers and here you go...

The ID of the eye is about 0.775"
The OD of the eye is about 1.305"
The thread is a 5/16-24 (I think it's 24 - looks like a coarse thread pitch - American pitch).

Note: To get a 5/16, I could only find eye bolts that were too long. I had to take a hacksaw to it to shorten up the threaded length so that it would not bottom-out against the jack. Be sure to trim enough off so that when the load of the car is put on the puck (they compress a titch) that you don't bottom on the bolt/nut at the bottom.

Hope this helps.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but how do you transfer the car from the jack to the jack stand? Where should I place the jack stand?

 

To tell you the truth, this is my first Vette and I haven't had a need to put it on jack stands yet, so I haven't really looked at the underside to be sure. However, I would have to think that the jack stands would need to go near the points on the frame where you jack from.

Input from the forum would be much appreciated.

 

I just called the following number 1-800-468-6657 (GM tools). The part number for the pucks is J43625-1, cost is 49.69 for a package of 4. They are in stock for who ever wants to order them.

 

The Hockey Pucks are the cheapest way to go...Ref lifting/jacking the C6..This site has some great info http ://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6index.html