First startup after winter.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Sherwood Park Alberta
First startup after winter.
I know this has been dealt with here but i have checked the search forums and can't find the post that described how to "dry" start a C6. Mine has sat covered in a heated shop for six months.
I think it said press the gas peadal to 80+ percent and hit the button. Said the car wouldnt start because of acelerator position. Not sure how many times to cycle it through? Is this OK by GM?
Any help would be apreciated and thanks in advance.
CG
I think it said press the gas peadal to 80+ percent and hit the button. Said the car wouldnt start because of acelerator position. Not sure how many times to cycle it through? Is this OK by GM?
Any help would be apreciated and thanks in advance.
CG
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,355
Likes: 11
From: Beverly Hills, MI
I know this has been dealt with here but i have checked the search forums and can't find the post that described how to "dry" start a C6. Mine has sat covered in a heated shop for six months.
I think it said press the gas peadal to 80+ percent and hit the button. Said the car wouldnt start because of acelerator position. Not sure how many times to cycle it through? Is this OK by GM?
Any help would be apreciated and thanks in advance.
CG
I think it said press the gas peadal to 80+ percent and hit the button. Said the car wouldnt start because of acelerator position. Not sure how many times to cycle it through? Is this OK by GM?
Any help would be apreciated and thanks in advance.
CG
I didn't do the 80+ percent route because I didn't know whether it would work on an '08. So I talked to a mechanic and he told me to just hit the button. I did. It started up fine with no lifter chatter (which is what I was concerned about).
Bottom line, just start her up.
If you want to do it "right", you should add an aux oil pump system between the engine and oil filter. Just wasn't worth it to me.
JMHO
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 9
From: Upstate New York
I think you are referring to using the method used to clear a flooded engine - where you depress the accelerator all the way down and crank the engine, the computer knows not to add fuel so it will not start.
Personally I have owned several 'seasonal' cars that get stored 5-6 months out of the year - never had an issue with just cranking then up at the beginning of the season, and I don't remember ever seeing this in any manual as the preferred way to start-up after winter storage.
Personally I have owned several 'seasonal' cars that get stored 5-6 months out of the year - never had an issue with just cranking then up at the beginning of the season, and I don't remember ever seeing this in any manual as the preferred way to start-up after winter storage.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,355
Likes: 11
From: Beverly Hills, MI
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,017
Likes: 2
I started mine a couple of weeks ago and held the accelerator to the floor. I let it crank for about 10 seconds. Waited 30 seconds and hit the start button normally. Fired right up. Yes, fooling it into thinking its flooded works for cranking without firing..
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,089
Likes: 14
Most of the wear on an engine happens during cold dry starts. The rings dragging on dry cylinder walls cause up to 80% of the abrasive wear an engine suffers in its lifetime. So you want to spin up the engine quickly to get the oil circulating and protecting the cylinder walls. To do that you want to get the engine running as quickly as possible. Slow cranking doesn't get the oil flowing enough, or quickly enough, to prevent excess wear. Make sure the battery has a good charge, then quickly start the engine.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Sherwood Park Alberta
Thank you so much for the help and many replies. I think most agree to start it normally although NWC6 feels otherwise.
Such a great forum guys and gals. Proud to be a member.
CG THANKS!!!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Sherwood Park Alberta
Most of the wear on an engine happens during cold dry starts. The rings dragging on dry cylinder walls cause up to 80% of the abrasive wear an engine suffers in its lifetime. So you want to spin up the engine quickly to get the oil circulating and protecting the cylinder walls. To do that you want to get the engine running as quickly as possible. Slow cranking doesn't get the oil flowing enough, or quickly enough, to prevent excess wear. Make sure the battery has a good charge, then quickly start the engine.
Will do exactly as you say. Thanks for taking the time,
CG