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Found some old/closed threads regarding this topic, so based on the posts I thought what an easy cheap mod...HA!
Called local Chevy dealer, their Corvette guy is cool and i figured Id buy him lunch to adjust the bolts... Uh no!
Its a $400-$500 dollar job w/the alignment . An alignment needs to be done following the adjustment bcuz of camber toe and etc... All contrary to what the old posts stated. Also they said it would only lower the car less than one inch!
This is a very easy job. If you have even the slightest mechanical ability you can do it yourself. As far as an alignment goes, I disagree. I lowered my car with 55 miles on the odo. I now have about 11k miles on the car, and no abnormal or accelerated tire wear. The car tracks perfectly and as far as I can tell the alignment is spot on. I also lowered my car more than most, as I cut all the stock bushings and cranked the bolts all the way up, and still no issues without an alignment. For the price you were quoted, it sounds to me like the "Corvette guy" is just out to make a quick buck.
To lower the car, simply jack up the car and put it on jackstands, then get a bottle jack and place it under one side of the leaf spring as close to the adjustment bolt as possible. Jack up the bottle jack to take pressure off the bolt until you can spin the bolt with your fingers. Adjust the bolt an equal number of turns on each side. If you want to go lower, go to Lowe's and buy a couple of PVC pipe cable saws ($4/ea) and cut off a rib or two from the bushings.
This is a very easy job. If you have even the slightest mechanical ability you can do it yourself. As far as an alignment goes, I disagree. I lowered my car with 55 miles on the odo. I now have about 11k miles on the car, and no abnormal or accelerated tire wear. The car tracks perfectly and as far as I can tell the alignment is spot on. I also lowered my car more than most, as I cut all the stock bushings and cranked the bolts all the way up, and still no issues without an alignment. For the price you were quoted, it sounds to me like the "Corvette guy" is just out to make a quick buck.
To lower the car, simply jack up the car and put it on jackstands, then get a bottle jack and place it under one side of the leaf spring as close to the adjustment bolt as possible. Jack up the bottle jack to take pressure off the bolt until you can spin the bolt with your fingers. Adjust the bolt an equal number of turns on each side. If you want to go lower, go to Lowe's and buy a couple of PVC pipe cable saws ($4/ea) and cut off a rib or two from the bushings.
I just did this. Without cutting any bushings you won't be able to lower the car much, especially the rear. On the front my untouched setting was 5 turns and I changed it to 2 turns (turns meaning how many full turns of the adjustment bolt it took to bottom the bushing out counterclockwise). This resulted in a 1/4"-3/8" drop. On the rear I went from about 2 turns to 0 turns and that resulted in a 1/8" drop.
I cut my bushings almost all the way off, just left enough as not to squeek, then cranked them all the way up. I used the PVC cable cutter purchased from Home Depot. I've never had an alignment done, (however that's not saying you shouldn't) Mine has been like this for over 2 years... here's the result.
cut my bushings in half and lowered it 2" put plenty of grease under so it don't squeak
See sig pic David
Greasing the underside of the car doesn't seem to help much. It still makes a disturbing banging noise when it hits the roadway.
Sure makes the head of the little bobble head doggie with the lighted eyes in the rear window bounce too.
Ah, the lowrider lifestyle, nothing like it. The Neon in the wheel wells, the sparks from the undercarriage dragging on the street. Cruising the Taco stand. Ca-rumba!
I bought (yet to install) the lowering bolts from Hardbar - USA. These are $65 for the two rears and the bushings are made out of delrin - top quality stuff used in racing applications.
I am not a racing snob or anything - I just figure that I would not need aftermarket bolts for the front and rather than spend $40 for a set of 4 and use only 2 of them on the rear, I would spend $25 more and get a top quality product that are super strong, will lower the rear as much as I want, won't squeak, and will last longer than the car.
Have had mine done almost 2 years not a problem. I did do an alignment after though.
Originally Posted by shopdog
Greasing the underside of the car doesn't seem to help much. It still makes a disturbing banging noise when it hits the roadway.
Sure makes the head of the little bobble head doggie with the lighted eyes in the rear window bounce too.
Ah, the lowrider lifestyle, nothing like it. The Neon in the wheel wells, the sparks from the undercarriage dragging on the street. Cruising the Taco stand. Ca-rumba!
No but the grease stops the squeaks, haven't had one. And I happen to like the low rider life style, it's old codgers like you that can't take the bone jarring when you hit a hump. But hey it's all about freedom, and my freedom to do to my ride as I please.
I get positive comments on my bobble head and fuzzy dice all the time David
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