Rasing garage ceiling help..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Melissa TX
Rasing garage ceiling help..
I'm will be pulling the trigger on a 4 post lift in the next couple of days. What I am looking for are folks that have raised the ceiling in the garage to gain lifting room.
PICS WOULD BE AWESOME!. I currently have a truss system on 24" centers running left to right. I want to at a minimum, raise a section in the highest point of the truss to allow close to full lift height.
Anyone?
PICS WOULD BE AWESOME!. I currently have a truss system on 24" centers running left to right. I want to at a minimum, raise a section in the highest point of the truss to allow close to full lift height.
Anyone?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: Lake Worth Florida
In most garages, the ceiling sheetrock is nailed directly to the cross member of the roof truss that is attached to the roof rafter.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
I'm will be pulling the trigger on a 4 post lift in the next couple of days. What I am looking for are folks that have raised the ceiling in the garage to gain lifting room.
PICS WOULD BE AWESOME!. I currently have a truss system on 24" centers running left to right. I want to at a minimum, raise a section in the highest point of the truss to allow close to full lift height.
Anyone?
PICS WOULD BE AWESOME!. I currently have a truss system on 24" centers running left to right. I want to at a minimum, raise a section in the highest point of the truss to allow close to full lift height.
Anyone?
What lift did you select, I have been researching for a while but can't make a decision. I have looked at Bendpak, backyard buddy, and AClifts.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 19,030
Likes: 6
From: Maumelle Arkansas
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
In most garages, the ceiling sheetrock is nailed directly to the cross member of the roof truss that is attached to the roof rafter.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
LJ
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,103
Likes: 0
From: Springfield MA
St. Jude Donor '08
I looked in to doing the exact same thing with a very similar truss system and 3 contractors that I had come to my house would not touch it....to much of a risk of a structural failure and much to costly to reinforce the roof....the whole roof would have had to have been removed and rebuilt....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 875
Likes: 75
From: California
ceiling not to low
I have a 4-post lift in my garage (12 ft. ceiling) and my neighbor has one in his garage his ceiling are standard height, here is what he does; just raise your car to the highest position (without) going through the ceiling and use a rolling chair to sit on and work on your car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 883
Likes: 3
From: Rancho Murieta California
I am a general contractor. I have raised kitchen ceilings before that were trussed. I would not do what you are proposing until you talked with an engineer. Truss systems and stick built systems are engineered to carry a specific load. This load is calculated. Angles of joints, size of members, size of nails and where they are located all factor in. On occasion I have seen what is called a "drag truss" used, then piece of cake. However, if wrong you will not be eating cake! This is not do it yourself stuff, as seen on HGTV!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
I have a 4-post lift in my garage (12 ft. ceiling) and my neighbor has one in his garage his ceiling are standard height, here is what he does; just raise your car to the highest position (without) going through the ceiling and use a rolling chair to sit on and work on your car.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Melissa TX
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix NY
In most garages, the ceiling sheetrock is nailed directly to the cross member of the roof truss that is attached to the roof rafter.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
The rafters are meant to move the downward force from the roof to the outside walls. This cross member is used to stop the downward force of the roof from separating the roof rafters and collapsing.
In order to get additional height, you would have to remove the cross member. Without reinforcing the rafters somehow, the roof could cave in. This is especially important if you live in a area that gets snow or has high winds.
I would not suggest you just remove the cross members.
In order to change this, you would need to consult with a structural engineer who could design a new rafter system. You more than likely would have to remove the entire roof and rebuild it to the new specifications.
Probably a way to do it right but would definitely talk with some one with structural knowledge first...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Just like Fade94 suggested, the Pro Park 8S is the one to go for. I got mine through gregsmithequipment.com
Super happy with it. I paid to have it installed by a bonded/ licensed installer that gregsmithequipment.com referred.
They ship to the installer, who then trailered it to my house and installed it.
I figure if something were to go wrong, they're on the hook, not me and my 3 buddies.
FWIW, When I told the installer what I paid ( I think it was $1945), they were shocked...they said the lift was a steal and had features more expensive ones do not, and they liked how the lock ladder is adjustable, and you are not relying on welded in place pegs.
Also, if interested, you need a total of 7 of the drip trays to cover the entire midesection of the lift... I think it comes with 3, but gregsmith threw in an extra 3 (found out I was one short, but you can get by with the jack tray as the 7th if desired).
I find it is easier to work on the car with it lower on the lift and me on the creeper despite it having a 6' height.
Super happy with it. I paid to have it installed by a bonded/ licensed installer that gregsmithequipment.com referred.
They ship to the installer, who then trailered it to my house and installed it.
I figure if something were to go wrong, they're on the hook, not me and my 3 buddies.
FWIW, When I told the installer what I paid ( I think it was $1945), they were shocked...they said the lift was a steal and had features more expensive ones do not, and they liked how the lock ladder is adjustable, and you are not relying on welded in place pegs.
Also, if interested, you need a total of 7 of the drip trays to cover the entire midesection of the lift... I think it comes with 3, but gregsmith threw in an extra 3 (found out I was one short, but you can get by with the jack tray as the 7th if desired).
I find it is easier to work on the car with it lower on the lift and me on the creeper despite it having a 6' height.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 484
Likes: 1
From: Beech Mountain North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '09
I am a GC also. In most (probably all) states, it is illegal to modify trusses without having an engineering letter from the TRUSS MANUFACTURER, not just from a structural eng. If it is an older home or if the truss manu. is no longer around, you may avoid the letter.
In the OP's case, raising the bottom chord ( as he describes the situation) will be a costly procedure at best. If you get a contractor that tells you differently, or "we don'ts need no stinkin letter"---- run!
In the OP's case, raising the bottom chord ( as he describes the situation) will be a costly procedure at best. If you get a contractor that tells you differently, or "we don'ts need no stinkin letter"---- run!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,098
Likes: 8
From: Dayton Ohio
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Just like Fade94 suggested, the Pro Park 8S is the one to go for. I got mine through gregsmithequipment.com
Super happy with it. I paid to have it installed by a bonded/ licensed installer that gregsmithequipment.com referred.
They ship to the installer, who then trailered it to my house and installed it.
I figure if something were to go wrong, they're on the hook, not me and my 3 buddies.
FWIW, When I told the installer what I paid ( I think it was $1945), they were shocked...they said the lift was a steal and had features more expensive ones do not, and they liked how the lock ladder is adjustable, and you are not relying on welded in place pegs.
Also, if interested, you need a total of 7 of the drip trays to cover the entire midesection of the lift... I think it comes with 3, but gregsmith threw in an extra 3 (found out I was one short, but you can get by with the jack tray as the 7th if desired).
I find it is easier to work on the car with it lower on the lift and me on the creeper despite it having a 6' height.
Super happy with it. I paid to have it installed by a bonded/ licensed installer that gregsmithequipment.com referred.
They ship to the installer, who then trailered it to my house and installed it.
I figure if something were to go wrong, they're on the hook, not me and my 3 buddies.
FWIW, When I told the installer what I paid ( I think it was $1945), they were shocked...they said the lift was a steal and had features more expensive ones do not, and they liked how the lock ladder is adjustable, and you are not relying on welded in place pegs.
Also, if interested, you need a total of 7 of the drip trays to cover the entire midesection of the lift... I think it comes with 3, but gregsmith threw in an extra 3 (found out I was one short, but you can get by with the jack tray as the 7th if desired).
I find it is easier to work on the car with it lower on the lift and me on the creeper despite it having a 6' height.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,738
Likes: 81
From: Milford NH
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Southern NJ
You can cut the Trusses IF and ONLY you get an engineer to look at the job. You reinforce all the webbing of the affected trusses with girders. A new header has to be placed at the top to carry the roof load down on to the bearing walls. I did it in my garage, I raised the "box" 2 feet above the old ceiling height. Just got the lift delivered on Friday, putting that up after Thanksgiving.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 1
From: Greensboro NC
I am a general contractor. I have raised kitchen ceilings before that were trussed. I would not do what you are proposing until you talked with an engineer. Truss systems and stick built systems are engineered to carry a specific load. This load is calculated. Angles of joints, size of members, size of nails and where they are located all factor in. On occasion I have seen what is called a "drag truss" used, then piece of cake. However, if wrong you will not be eating cake! This is not do it yourself stuff, as seen on HGTV!
do not be intimidated by an engineer. You should be able to find someone who will come to your house and look at what you have a for a small fee engineer a fix. Probably add framing and bracing before you cut out for clearance.