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patch a run flat?

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Default patch a run flat?

I am running Goodyear Eagle F1's and today I got a big fat screw right in the middle of the drivers side front tire. the replacement is going to cost me about $350, give or take.

I could easily find someone to patch it up. I know you not suppposed to, but I dont know why you not supposed to.

I am not a a speed demon or do I normally race (although I have on rare occassion).

Is there any reason why a $20 patch isnt the way to go????
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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The run flat technology mostly has to do with the side walls.

If your screw went center tire-tread....

and not near the side wall, I would guess it would be ok
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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From what I have read...As long as you did not drive a long distance w/ 0 psi , a Goodyear run-flat tire is repairable ( at a certifed Goodyear dealer )


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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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There's nothing wrong with patching the F1s as long as the hole is in the center of the tread and it's not like a 45 caliber bullet hole. It's the sidewalls and edges that you can't fix. You might want to back off of the top speed runs with patched tires - maybe down to no more than 160 or so

If you can find the original PR pamphlet that came with the tires it will tell you what you can/can't do.

Z//
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Wolfdogs is who to turn to when it has to do with tires. He is a true expert in the field.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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It should be repairable just like any other tire. As long as you aren't going 180mph for extended periods, I wouldn't bat an eye at patching or plugging it.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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As long as it is done according to the manufacturers requirements, it is fine to repair a GY runflat. Wolfdogs has said this here on the forum many times. The Firestone is the only runflat that the manufacturer says not to repair..it says so on the side of the tire.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Car Manufacturers don't want to patch tires. If you refer to most tire manufacturers they do allow the repair of run flats under certain circumstances. That said if you are going to repair it I would remove the tire and have the tire vulcanized on the inside also. A little bit more expensive but a far safer repair.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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Repaired one on my C5 and it was still fine when it was sold 4 years after the fix.
But if your car is still under the 36/36 factory warranty the tires should be under warranty as well
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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from the "horses mouth" (im not the horse)

"A Goodyear or Kelly - Springfield manufactured speed - rated tire may be repaired to correct a commonly repairable nail hole punture in the tread are ONLY. Proper materials and procedures must be applied. INCORRECT OR IMPROPER REPAIR WILL RESULT IN THE TIRE NO LONGER BEING SPEED - RATED BY GOODYEAR, and the warranty may also be affected. Tire speed 130 mph (210 km/h) and over (H,V,W,Y,Z) symbols. Only one repair is sugested, to maintain speed-rating, with a Max. repair diameter of 1/4 in. (6mm). "


Find a Goodyear owned tire store to do the job, not a Goodyear franchise. You should be fine.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:02 PM
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Yes, it can be repaired. Most Goodyear and Discount Tire stores can do it. Discount Tire will usually do it for free.

If it is not repairable, the Goodyear warranty says they will replace it. Of course the usual caveats are there.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdn Z06 Mike
Car Manufacturers don't want to patch tires. If you refer to most tire manufacturers they do allow the repair of run flats under certain circumstances. That said if you are going to repair it I would remove the tire and have the tire vulcanized on the inside also. A little bit more expensive but a far safer repair.
a unipatch is whats needed, not "vulcanized"...but what you say is of value, the sealing of the radials "tube"..the inner liner, is the key.... its patch with radial design applied in direction of the radial construction of the tire, with a plug sealed to it, which is pulled up and through the injury and trimmed off at the tread surface.

tire Rack finally hits it on the head: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=77

the inner liner must be sealed to prevent "air charging" of the casing, and moisture migration to the belt package.

a simple "plug" repair is downright dangerous and can lead to a blow out. Fact. Check the tire manufacturers, they do not bless a plug repair.

read this as well: http://www.retread.org/PDF/Rolwing.pdf

"Repairability — SST run-flat repair guidelines are nearly similar to those for standard tires. Michelin's PAX has more stringent repair procedures, including a warning that repairs can only be carried out at a "Michelin PAX System authorized servicing dealer." In either case, if the zero-pressure driving distance or speed is exceeded, the tire might need outright replacement. Furthermore, tire sealant-in-a-can leak repair products shouldn't be used, because they can foul many types of TPMS air-pressure sensors. "

"There is always a risk associated with repairing anything - and that includes tires. In the case of tires, the tire may have been run underinflated for quite some time before it was detected and that weakens the structure of the tire and increases the risk of a tread separation.

But in the case of Run Flat tires, some of the signs that a tire was operated underinflated are completely disguised, so even someone trained to look for these signs would not be able to see the and so would not know if the structure of the tire is weakened.

So some tire manufacturers say you shouldn't repair a Run Flat and others, recognizing they are fairly expensive, say it is OK, knowing that the risk is being borne by the guy getting the financial benefit - the person who is riding on the repaired tire.

So the end game is - Are you willing to accept the risk or not? "

fun, eh?

Last edited by wolfdogs; Mar 25, 2010 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #13  
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I plugged mine on my 2002 and drove for a long time on it. If the plug came out I would still be driving on a run flat with a hole in it which is supposed to be safe.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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I've plugged two run-flat tires and I'll do it again. You don't even have to take the tire off. We're talking 10 minutes. Especially for a non-racing owner.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #15  
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If the tire is still under warranty Goodyear will replace it if it can't be repaired. They replaced 2 for me, one the day before warranty ran out! Did not cost me a penny either time.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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I had one repaired at Goodyear on my 2001. Cost me $45 and ran on it for another 6,000 miles
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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I would use a patch over a plug and I have patched 2 of my tires which seem to be a magnet for nails and screws... Cost me about $20 each time (from a local reputable tire shop) it happened. After doing this I certainly wouldnt drive at sustained high speeds for a long time but my tires are fine and still rolling. My rear tires are getting balder, so I am in the market for new rubbers. I might go with the michelins PS2 ZP's.
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To patch a run flat?

Old Mar 26, 2010 | 02:47 PM
  #18  
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I just had my left rear tire done. It to had a screw in the tread. Dealer said to
let them fix it,because it took the correct tools and know how to fix right. This
dealer is a huge corvette dealer.30 mins later done,and never a charge as
long as car was bought from them.Suburban Chevrolet in Sandy Oregon.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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This is from 1999, but I assume that it is still applicable. I had tires reopaired like this on my old C5, and they worked fine.


Product Service Bulletin
Important Information To Better Service Your Customers

Post For Ready Reference

PSB #98-11

August 27, 1998

TO: Goodyear Company Owned Outlets
Goodyear Contract Dealers

SUBJECT: Puncture Repairing and Retreading of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires (Includes Extended Mobility Tires)

With the ever increasing popularity of Goodyear Speed-Rated tires, it is important for you and your customers to know how repairing and retreading will affect the speed rating.

Accordingly, the following information will enable you to discuss these important subjects with your customers.

I. SUMMARY STATEMENT

A. REPAIR

A Goodyear speed-rated tire may be repaired to correct a commonly repairable nail hole puncture in the tread area only, but proper materials and procedures must be applied. INCORRECT OR IMPROPER REPAIR WILL RESULT IN THE TIRE NO LONGER BEING SPEED-RATED BY GOODYEAR, and the Goodyear warranty may also be affected.

B. RETREADING

If a Goodyear speed-rated tire is retreaded, it no longer is speed rated by Goodyear.

II. DETAILED POLICY - Puncture Repair of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires

A. The puncture must be confined to the tread area only. (See
"Repair Area", item III-B).

B. Restrictions on the number and size of repairs must be followed.
(See "Puncture Repair Limits" table, item III-C).

C. A detailed repair procedure must be followed.
(See "Repair Procedure", item III-E).


D. A Goodyear speed-rated new tire repaired in strict accordance with items II-A, B & C, will retain its speed rating.

III. REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR SPEED-RATED TIRES

A. GENERAL

The objective of the puncture repair is to seal the tire against loss of inflation pressure and to prevent damage to the carcass from moisture. In all puncture repairs approved by Goodyear, the hole must be filled with a plug, and a patch covering the hole must be applied according to repair material manufacturer instructions to the inside of the tire. Never repair tires which are worn below 2/32" tread depth.

NOTE: No tire is to be repaired without first being
removed from the rim.

B. REPAIR AREA

Repairing is limited to the tread area only within the outside grooves. No repairs are allowed in the tread area beyond the outside grooves or sidewall.

C. PUNCTURE REPAIR LIMITS


TIRE SPEED
(SPEED SYMBOL)
MAX. NUMBER
REPAIRS
MAX. REPAIR
DIAMETER

130 mph and over
(H, V, Z)
1
1/4 in. (6mm)

Tires marked with an S, T, or U speed rating, and tires with no speed ratings may be repaired in accordance with the RMA "Puncture Repair Procedures for Automobile Tires" wall chart or Product Service Bulletin 98-12 dated August 28, 1998.


D. MATERIALS

1. Precured rubber plugs - 1/4" (6mm) diameter
2. Precured patches
3. Precured plug/patch combi-units
4. Chemical vulcanizing cement
5. Pre-buff cleaner

E. REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TIRE COMPLETELY FROM THE RIM.

2. Locate the puncture on the inside of the tire and circle with crayon.

3. Remove puncturing object if it is still in the tire.

4. Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will
show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.

5. Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to
lose air.

6. Check the injury with an inspection awl:

a. Determine size and angle of injury
b. Check for ply or belt separation

7. Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any
other non-repairable injury.

8. If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair
procedure will be successful.

NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.

9. Use a pre-buff cleaner and a scraper to remove contaminants from the liner in the area to be buffed around the injury.

10. Use a 7/32"carbide cutter for ¼" repairs to clean out the
puncture.

a. Make sure that the drill follows the direction of the
puncturing object.

b. Always drill from inside to outside of tire.

11. Using chemical vulcanizing cement, lightly coat at least 1/2 of the tapered end of the repair plug. Install the plug in the prepared puncture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trim the liner side of the plug slightly higher than the surface of the liner without stretching the plug.

12. Center the patch (or patch template) over the injury without removing the
backing. Adhere to patch or template instructions, as to positioning as related to bead location. Mark around the outside edge of the patch, approximately 1/4" larger than the patch.

13. Buff the liner and plug at the puncture location. The buffed area should be slightly larger than the patch. The buffed surface should be finely grained (RMA 1 or 2 texture) and even for proper bonding. Use care to prevent burning the rubber with the buffing tool. Do not buff through the liner. Do not buff into the marking crayon.

14. Clean the buffing dust from the tire using only a vacuum or brush. Do not
use gasoline or other petroleum solvents on the buffed area.

15. Coat the buffed liner surface and the patch with one evenly applied coat of
chemical vulcanizing cement in accordance with the recommendations of the repair materials manufacturer. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly. Do not touch the cemented areas.

16. Install the patch with the beads of the tire in the relaxed position. Position
the patch over the puncture according to the markings on the patch.
Stitch the entire patch starting from the center, keeping the strokes close together to avoid trapping air under the patch.

17. Cut off the protruding end of the plug about 1/8" above the tread surface.

18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the
injury. After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and
valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^

18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the
injury.
After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and
valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.



Kaching! I rest my case
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