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High Speed Vibration?

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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 02:17 AM
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Default High Speed Vibration?

75+ I start to get a serious vibration mainly felt in the seat, very little in the steering wheel, when I back off the vibration goes away.

Could this be more than a rear tire balancing issue?
Maybe its the interstate (I-95) surface (blacktop)?

The tires (GY GS2 F1 EMT) are relatively new and of course were high speed balanced at the time installed...
Are there variations to "high speed balancing"? Is every shop different?
Any retail shop suggestions for the balancing?

Thanks

Last edited by jpuli28; Mar 30, 2010 at 04:16 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:33 AM
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If you think it could be the road go on a different highway and see if it does the same thing.

If it still happens I would take it to the same shop and see if they will make it right.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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[QUOTE=jpuli28;1573592410]
Are there variations to "high speed balancing"? Is every shop different?
Any retail shop suggestions for the balancing?
QUOTE]

Yes
There is static, dynamic and road force balancing.
Also, the equipment could be out of adjustment or there could be operator error.

Here's some information:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/intro.cfm
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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IMHO road force seems to work best!!
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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I had new rims put on a few months ago. Took to local Porsche dealer to get installed. Car seemed fine until got up on interstate and had a vibration. Went back and they rechecked the balance. Found a weight had come off one wheel. All is fine now. Take it back and ask to have it checked.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:01 AM
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Do you have stock rims or aftermarket? Vette is hub centric. Rim may not be centered if aftermarket rim. Otherwise it would not be the first bad balancing job I have heard off plus weights do fall off. Just get it re checked.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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First of all, make damn sure all your lug nuts are still properly torqued. Then get the balance re-checked. As others have said, road force balance is best. If you have after-market wheels, it's remotely possible that one is faulty. That should show up during balancing.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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I have posted before but I have aftermarket wheels and I have a moderate vibration but noticed it is with acceleration past 70MPH. It is in the steering wheel and shifter. I have had the wheels road forced twice by the Hunter 9700 with no reported issues. My last resort is finding someone that will switch wheels with me for a drive so I can at least isolate the problem. Would the Hunter 9700 also recognized if the wheel was not hub centric? Good luck to the OP. I will be interested to see what your cure is. Mine problem is also on I-95 but in VA and sometime wonder if that is the real issue. I should have just kept my factory and been happy.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Corpsvette
I should have just kept my factory and been happy.
I went back to OEM wheels and my vibration issue went away.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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This problem is fairly common with some aftermarket wheels.

The OE wheels have a countersunk area on the backside face of the wheel around the lug hole where the Tinnerman nuts that hold the rotors on while the car comes down the assembly line before calipers and wheels are installed can fit so the wheel fits flush to the hub. Many other wheels don't have the recessed area.

So.....make sure those flat retaining nuts are removed when putting on aftermarket wheels or they may not mate up flush with the hub and you'll get that vibration at about 75-80 mph.

Bob

Last edited by BEZ06; Mar 30, 2010 at 11:02 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MARSC6
If you think it could be the road go on a different highway and see if it does the same thing.
If it still happens I would take it to the same shop and see if they will make it right.
Only have 3 in the immediate area but can be done.

Originally Posted by easyrider13
Yes
There is static, dynamic and road force balancing.
Also, the equipment could be out of adjustment or there could be operator error.
Here's some information:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/intro.cfm
Site has retail shop locations, Thanks.

Originally Posted by Boomer111
Do you have stock rims or aftermarket? Vette is hub centric. Rim may not be centered if aftermarket rim. Otherwise it would not be the first bad balancing job I have heard off plus weights do fall off. Just get it re checked.
WCC Spyder repros...

Originally Posted by 38 Years Later
I went back to OEM wheels and my vibration issue went away.
Sold :o

Originally Posted by BEZ06
This problem is fairly common with some aftermarket wheels.
The OE wheels have a countersunk area on the backside face of the wheel around the lug hole where the Tinnerman nuts that hold the rotors on while the car comes down the assembly line before calipers and wheels are installed can fit so the wheel fits flush to the hub. Many other wheels don't have the recessed area.
So.....make sure those flat retaining nuts are removed when putting on aftermarket wheels or they may not mate up flush with the hub and you'll get that vibration at about 75-80 mph.
Bob
Took that off awhile back.

Thanks for the input guys, Ill look into your suggestions. Ive taken the car back before for a rebalance but it hasnt cured the issue. So I didnt know if "high speed balancing" had its limit and the definition was subjective.

Last edited by jpuli28; Mar 30, 2010 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
This problem is fairly common with some aftermarket wheels.

The OE wheels have a countersunk area on the backside face of the wheel around the lug hole where the Tinnerman nuts that hold the rotors on while the car comes down the assembly line before calipers and wheels are installed can fit so the wheel fits flush to the hub. Many other wheels don't have the recessed area.

So.....make sure those flat retaining nuts are removed when putting on aftermarket wheels or they may not mate up flush with the hub and you'll get that vibration at about 75-80 mph.

Bob
Get off of here and get back out on that racecourse Bob!

( And good point!)
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Eritosthenes
First of all, make damn sure all your lug nuts are still properly torqued. Then get the balance re-checked. As others have said, road force balance is best. If you have after-market wheels, it's remotely possible that one is faulty. That should show up during balancing.


If after all that checks good you could also have a tire seperating internally. One of my Factory Goodyears on the front I was told by the tire shop (they also race dirt track cars) that how the tire looked when they deflated it, they said that the plys had seperated internally. They ask if I had noticed any vibrations and I said that I did around 70 mph.

Mark
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
This problem is fairly common with some aftermarket wheels.

The OE wheels have a countersunk area on the backside face of the wheel around the lug hole where the Tinnerman nuts that hold the rotors on while the car comes down the assembly line before calipers and wheels are installed can fit so the wheel fits flush to the hub. Many other wheels don't have the recessed area.

So.....make sure those flat retaining nuts are removed when putting on aftermarket wheels or they may not mate up flush with the hub and you'll get that vibration at about 75-80 mph.

Bob


I didn't see that you were running aftermarket wheels before I made my first post....

Mark
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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This sounds just like the problem I went thru.. My wheels were 1mm larger bore than the hub. It made a difference at higher speed like yours. I just had heavy tap added around the cars hub, vibration gone. The tap acted like a spacer. 1mm is not much but it did cause vibration.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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I wasted a fortune constantly paying for my wheels to be balanced. I would also not got back to the same place if I did not leave happy. I figured that their machine, capabilities or employees are suspect. I had repros... I then got a drivetrain vibration at a different speed. What a pain!! after fixin it, I sold my car and I feel ten years younger.. But I will buy again

Last edited by SgtRod; Mar 30, 2010 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SgtRod
I wasted a fortune constantly paying for balancing. I would also not got back to the same place if I did not leave happy. I figured that their machine, capabilities or employees are suspect. I had repros... I then got a drivetrain vibration at a different speed. What a pain!! after fixin it, I sold my car and I feel ten years younger.. But I will buy again
Ive seen what causes the DT vibration at what speed did you get it?
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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I got the vibration between 50-60mph. Some people told me everything was fine and that I was crazy.... I may be crazy but this thing IS vibrating! I drove my car alot so I could feel everything. At the end after insisting, it was something with the tourqe tube bearing/coverter. Was that your experience?

Last edited by SgtRod; Mar 30, 2010 at 07:03 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Are you saying I should take something like duct tape and thicken up the hub so if my rims are not hub centric is will help center them up before I properly torque the lug nuts?
Originally Posted by Boomer111
This sounds just like the problem I went thru.. My wheels were 1mm larger bore than the hub. It made a difference at higher speed like yours. I just had heavy tap added around the cars hub, vibration gone. The tap acted like a spacer. 1mm is not much but it did cause vibration.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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I use a black permanent felt tip laundry marker to mark the location of my wheel weights so it is easy to spot "thrown" weights.
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