erniepr

I just bougt a C6, the previous owner lowered it and with our full-of-bumps Mexican streets it's kind of annoying being avoiding every hole and bump. I want to take it to stock height, does anyone know which is the stock height (I'mon stock wheels/tires), measured from the floor to each (back and front) wheel well?

Greetings from Mexico

erniepr

Anyone??

Boomer111

How about three fingers from tire to wheel well. About stock distance. When you start to push out a finger your below stock. needing to add some finger the car is riding high. It is not rocket science....

c54u

My 2007 Z51 with no mods sits as follows:

from the ground up through the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the fender(s)

fronts are both 26 5/8 inches
rears are both 28.0 inches

has full tank of gas and tires are at 31 psi

BEZ06

Hi, welcome to the forum, and enjoy your Vette!!!

As far as ride height, put it at any height you want.

The Service Manual has some specs that measure the distance between some of the suspension parts.

The front ride height measurement is called the "Z Height", and the rear measurement is called the "D Height".

The measurements of those distances is from the bottom of the lowest part of the ball joint to the center of the mounting bolt on the front side of the lower control arm. Below are the specs from my 2006 manual.

The Z height specs are:

The D height specs are:
So....even though there are specs in the manual, the cars come off the assembly line with wide differences in ride height and alignment - and often NOT within specs!!

I say, don't worry about the Service Manual specs - just adjust the ride height to what ever looks good to you and will work with the roads/driveways/speedbumps you have to deal with.

Again - glad to have you here on the forum!! Welcome!!!!

Bob

cartop2

When I bought a C5 a few years back, it had been lowered on stock bolts and I also put it back to stock (as close as I could tell). I liked it better that way, but many prefer them lowered.

I did have a four wheel alignment done. The tech said that it really didn't need much, but he had tweaked it to what he believed would be a little better. Bottom line, if it is aligned before you crank it back up, an alignment might not be needed.

erniepr

Thanks guys for the responses.
Now I have a very good idea.

BEZ06, fortunately this is not my first vette I had a '01 Z06 and loved it, but had to have a C6, and this one i got is what I wanted (already supercharged, transgo, yank, etc etc) so now it's time to enjoy.

Greetings from Mexico

BEZ06

Good.....if you're familiar with the C5 then you'll recognize everything under the C6.

The C5 has the bolts that screw up through the leaf spring up front, but have a different arrangement in the rear.

The C6 is exactly the same both front and rear - it's just like the front of a C5.

Sounds like a great car!!! Enjoy it!!!!

Bob

Gyrobob

Where are some instructions (threads?) on how to adjust the ride height on a 2009 LT1? My right rear tire is rubbing a little and I would like to raise the ride height a bit.

Thanks for any info.

Bob

Wayne O

When adjusting setup I would not recommend measuring to the wheel wells...there can be a lot of variation in body parts. I guess it depends how technical you want to get (and I don't claim to be an expert) but here are some general things we used to do when adjusting setup with the stock suspension. Make sure your tire pressures are all correct; have maybe a half tank of fuel for average weight; 'settle' your suspension by taking a short spirited drive or physically bounce the car up and down a bit. As mentioned, there's no guaranty your car came setup correctly from the factory so turning the adjusting bolts an equal number of turns may or may not be accurate. Realize anytime you adjust one corner it affects the other corners of the car (the one diagonally the most). Since its a process of measuring, adjusting, re-measuring and readjusting if at all possible find someone with a dead level lift you can drive onto...it makes the process infinitely easier. When the car is sitting on a dead level surface, I measure up from the 'ground' to hard points on the frame using what looks like a round rivet head located near to each of the oval frame slots (that always worked well for us). Sometimes it can be difficult to turn the adjusting bolts...sometimes we'd use a jack (carefully) on the leaf spring to take pressure off...sometimes you might have to 'spread' the leaf spring the other way. For whatever height you're aiming for take a first-pass measuring and adjusting. Then, take a short drive or bounce the car to re-settle the suspension. Then, repeat the measuring and adjusting process. It can take 2 or 3 passes to end up where you want to be. We'd end-up with a very slight rake (front lower than the rear) but essentially we wanted to level and balance the car for track use. At whatever height you aimed for there's going to be a small variance in measurements...try to get the car as balanced as you can from side to side. Good luck.

erniepr

Thanks Wayne, I took the car to a friend's shop and did almost like you explained, now it's up and no rubbing.

c54u: Thanks man, my car is now at the same height as yours.

Ernie

slofut

Davids yellow '73 in post 986, what wheels are those? Minilite type...