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I cut exactly 1/3 (no more) on all four bushings then screwed them down all the way with a spot of grease on the pad.
Result, 1.5" drop. Add 8-washers (shims) to the 4-bolts (2 on each one) on the front upper control arm against the frame to correct the now increased negative camber. Then do or get a toe adjustment and your all set to go, SIMPLE!
20k miles later it still looks and works fine.
I have rarely scraped the bottom of the car and that's only over the largest of speed bumps.
Despite fear comments from what I call "lifted Vette" owners, if you know the limitations of your car, if you know how to drive it (not just fast), you should never have a problem negotiating speed bumps and driveways knowing what you have!
Heck, I could go off-road with the Vette compared to my NSX!
I cut exactly 1/3 (no more) on all four bushings then screwed them down all the way with a spot of grease on the pad.
Result, 1.5" drop. Add 8-washers (shims) to the 4-bolts (2 on each one) on the front upper control arm against the frame to correct the now increased negative camber. Then do or get a toe adjustment and your all set to go, SIMPLE!
20k miles later it still looks and works fine.
I have rarely scraped the bottom of the car and that's only over the largest of speed bumps.
Despite fear comments from what I call "lifted Vette" owners, if you know the limitations of your car, if you know how to drive it (not just fast), you should never have a problem negotiating speed bumps and driveways knowing what you have!
Heck, I could go off-road with the Vette compared to my NSX!
Jack
hahaha awesome...so when can i take my car to your house??
If it's to low for you not to worry, just crank the screw in the opposite direction to raise to your desired ride height.
You need to come buy my house too! I like your car!
Jack
I think the added weight of the forged motor and the supercharger is the reason my is so low in the front. I couldn't see going any lower. I've never been to the west coast.
If you wanna get low, you have to get the Hardbar bolts for the front also, yes they do make them specifically for the front also. You shouldn't cut the front bushing, but you can replace it. It depends on how low you wanna go, if you wanna be gangster like me, then...
The trouble with lowering via bolts is that your OEM shocks still travel the same distance but now you're lower, thus you will tend to bottom out quicker. Using adjustable coilovers you can lower waaay down while actually scraping less since the efficiency of the coilovers means less shock travel which eliminates that *Cadillac* bounce.
I've cut all the bushings and with the Magnetic (F55) I've never had any problem or bottomed out even at high speeds. Maybe it's different with other types. Thats over 20k miles and speaking with real experiece.
I just finished installing the hardbar rear lower bolts. I love the look. I had it lowered on stock bolts but the front sat so much lower then the rear. Could be from all the extra engine weight? Now that I have the rear at the same level the car scraps a lot less.
I'm sitting here looking at a set of bolts for the rear right now. I'm just waiting to get new tires before I install them!
so i lowered the front all the way without cutting bushings. The rear was also lowered all the way without cutting bushings. I will be cutting one layer of the rear bushing. For now i wanted to show you a quick look of my C6 converted to ZR1 body by ACS Composites, painted by New York Paint and Body and ADV1 Wheels.....Let me know what you think.
Last edited by C6VetteC_LOS; Aug 17, 2010 at 08:12 AM.