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If you are checking your breaker bar torque with a torque wrench after the fact, then it will always check above 100 ft/lbs if you are over torquing in the first place. Just my 2 cents.
I ran into this on another car. I was getting new tires when the first one snapped. I was watching and saw the shock on the tech's face as he was torquing it with proper wrench when it snapped or I would not of believed them.
The manager blamed a past over tightening for "stretching" the studs. We inspected them and I could see two others with visible damage around the necks - small cracks and the diameter was a bit thinner (stretched). The previous rotation was done by me (by hand) and it was the first time in my life I had to resort to a breaker bar to free them. The one before that - that over tightened them and did the damage - was the "free rotation" by the dealer.
If that's the case you probably should of replaced them all while it was off or at least carefully inspect them for damage while its off.
Certain aspects of working on the C6 are a PITA (but no one said it would be easy). It's unusual, however, to be breaking wheel studs with such regularity. I've used the stock, long and longest wheel studs and I change wheels frequently. I've snapped one stud due to my own stupidity.
Is your torque wrench working correctly? Also, not all torque wrenches are created equal -- I'm especially talking about the $29.95 specials that come from Papa Mao's Motorworks. Cheap tools suck.
14 Corvetts and many other cars, No broken studs. If you use anti seize on the studs and then torque you will put considerable more torque pressure. Lets face it you must be doing something wrong. Someone might have an answer on this forum.
Capt Bob
Totally a wild guess but is there any chance the lug nuts are not correct for your wheels? Did the ZR1 repo's come with new nuts? Just thinking if the nuts arent threading onto the studs far enough, it would put a lot of stress on the studs, especially if the new wheels have more offset than the originals. Also, are the repo's hub centric? Do they use any spacers? Again looking for something that would put more leverage on the studs than they were designed for.
not only the above, but I'd wonder about the wheels themselves. I'd also ask you this question: when was the last time you had your torque wrench calibrated? you could be "reading" 100 ft. lbs. and it could be something else completely.
I also have only had one wheel stud go bad and need replacing and that's in dozens of years of driving multiple vehicles thru some of the worst road/salt conditions.
I've had 9 Corvettes over the last 42 years and have never experienced a broken wheel stud. I've managed to break about everything else on the cars at one time or another, but not that.
I read the original posters thread and took it at face value. He was just trying to impart some information and easing his frustration at what he just went thru. When I read thru the replies I can see that some of us have not shown him much sympathy and are questioning his methods. What a rough crowd we have here.
Yes, I've only run factory wheels, lugs and studs on all of those cars. Seven of them were new so I know that they were all factory for sure. And I'm 99% sure about the other two, both were real low miles when I purchased them.
When I read thru the replies I can see that some of us have not shown him much sympathy and are questioning his methods. What a rough crowd we have here.
I agree, I'm not real big on the "You're-an-Idiot" mentality.
As I stated earlier, some after-market wheels are made from inferior materials.
I was curious if your wheels are factory of aftermarket. (?)
He was just trying to impart some information and easing his frustration at what he just went thru. When I read thru the replies I can see that some of us have not shown him much sympathy and are questioning his methods. What a rough crowd we have here.[/QUOTE]
It is not just questioning his methods, it is more "how can this happen to you twice" when nearly every response was "this has never happened to me in 50 years, or in owing 20 cars this never happened to me"! The fact that breaking a stud is a very very rare happening and therefore, responders are questioning his tools or his methods to have not one break, but two!
I can understand your frustration on some small level. However, criticizing GM engineers because you found it difficult to change a part that they really didn't intend for you to have to change is kind of over the top. I've been driving for 28 years and have never broken a wheel stud over dozens of vehicles in that time. I've owned three Corvettes including my current '05 and never had to change one.
You seem to be fairly convinced that your "joe by eye" method of torquing is working for you. I'd honestly say to you that you have presented evidence to the contrary. If you go through wheel studs like most people change their oil, there is something wrong with either your equipment, your method or your parts supply.
Is it possible that his car got a bad batch of studs? Most parts for any car come from all over the world. Even with QC, some things can slip through. Stud hardness can be effected by many things in the manufacturing process. It could be user error or part defect. I do not believe plus or minus 15 ft/lbs would be the difference in breaking one. If he has the skills to remove the rear stud, it would seem he could tighten the lug nuts! There was a comment about a hole in the rear backing plate making this easier. Could we drill one and plug when completed? I worked in an auto parts store when in HS and college. We had a full assortment of wheel studs. People bought them or we would not carry them!
I can understand your frustration on some small level. However, criticizing GM engineers because you found it difficult to change a part that they really didn't intend for you to have to change is kind of over the top. I've been driving for 28 years and have never broken a wheel stud over dozens of vehicles in that time. I've owned three Corvettes including my current '05 and never had to change one.
You seem to be fairly convinced that your "joe by eye" method of torquing is working for you. I'd honestly say to you that you have presented evidence to the contrary. If you go through wheel studs like most people change their oil, there is something wrong with either your equipment, your method or your parts supply.