0W 30 Mobil 1
#22
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
OK, I guess I get to be the oddball. I'm 69 and qualify as an old-fart, but I'm not dead yet, nor am I stuck in the past.
I've been using 0W-30 for almost the last 15K miles. I did my last change 4K ago and made a slight change by using 1 qt of 0W-30 racing to 4.5 qts of regular 0W-30. I have no method to compare gas mileage, especially since I changed to a higher stall converter at the same time as the oil. The one difference is that it now revs to 7000 easily where before 6700-6800 was about the practical limit. The one qt of racing was added to increase the phosphorus/zinc content from the gov't mandated 800ppm to 963ppm.
The car, an '08 A6, currently has 71K showing and has never been below 1/2 qt low before oil changes. I have never changed oil before the DIC read 3%, nor later than 200 miles after 0%. 11K has been the smallest amount of miles between changes and 16K the most.
I'm presently running a full Z06 exhaust system, a Vararam CAI, a 3200 stall converter, and it's been tuned. I've made over 200 passes at the drags with a best of 11.49 @ 121.85. I live in Phoenix and although it gets hot here (111 today), it never gets very cold either. My oil temps range from 190 to 235 and H2O from 170 to 220 depending on traffic and time of the year regardless of which oil I used.
By now, most of the readers of this thread are puking at the way I've treated my car, but it's still MY car. I've already driven mine more miles than most original C6 owners ever will, so I have a good perspective on the durability.
I've been using 0W-30 for almost the last 15K miles. I did my last change 4K ago and made a slight change by using 1 qt of 0W-30 racing to 4.5 qts of regular 0W-30. I have no method to compare gas mileage, especially since I changed to a higher stall converter at the same time as the oil. The one difference is that it now revs to 7000 easily where before 6700-6800 was about the practical limit. The one qt of racing was added to increase the phosphorus/zinc content from the gov't mandated 800ppm to 963ppm.
The car, an '08 A6, currently has 71K showing and has never been below 1/2 qt low before oil changes. I have never changed oil before the DIC read 3%, nor later than 200 miles after 0%. 11K has been the smallest amount of miles between changes and 16K the most.
I'm presently running a full Z06 exhaust system, a Vararam CAI, a 3200 stall converter, and it's been tuned. I've made over 200 passes at the drags with a best of 11.49 @ 121.85. I live in Phoenix and although it gets hot here (111 today), it never gets very cold either. My oil temps range from 190 to 235 and H2O from 170 to 220 depending on traffic and time of the year regardless of which oil I used.
By now, most of the readers of this thread are puking at the way I've treated my car, but it's still MY car. I've already driven mine more miles than most original C6 owners ever will, so I have a good perspective on the durability.
#24
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Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
#26
Race Director
The BITOG he refered to is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
That's where you go to really learn what oil you should use. They base the oil they run off of oil analysis done at their own expense, and use what works.
Much of the oil requirements are based upon emissions, environmental (stretching out the oil change intervals to save oil and cut down on waste oil disposal) and CAFE requirements.
Impossible to determine what is required for the performance and reliability aspect of the engine other than in a scientifically proven menthod like a Blackstone oil analysis.
I'd do as HOXXOH did and then get a few Blackstone analyses to validate the results.
#27
Le Mans Master
BITOG is quoted often enough as internet gospel. Would love to see some objective and scientific proof backing it up. Could simply be propaganda from an oil supplier/reformulator. Nobody knows.
The right answer.
Much of the oil requirements are based upon emissions, environmental (stretching out the oil change intervals to save oil and cut down on waste oil disposal) and CAFE requirements.
Impossible to determine what is required for the performance and reliability aspect of the engine other than in a scientifically proven menthod like a Blackstone oil analysis.
I'd do as HOXXOH did and then get a few Blackstone analyses to validate the results.
The right answer.
Much of the oil requirements are based upon emissions, environmental (stretching out the oil change intervals to save oil and cut down on waste oil disposal) and CAFE requirements.
Impossible to determine what is required for the performance and reliability aspect of the engine other than in a scientifically proven menthod like a Blackstone oil analysis.
I'd do as HOXXOH did and then get a few Blackstone analyses to validate the results.
#29
Race Director
They are BOTH 30 weights at operating temp, the difference is that the 0W-30 viscosity is 0 weight when cold and the 10W-30 is 10 weight viscosity when cold.
#30
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2005
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
I wouldn't touch this one with a 10 foot dip stick.
If it meets GM spec's, then I would also go for it. As far as gas savings, like the a previous poster said, your style of driving will probably save you more.
Me, I go by the book and the filler cap. Good Luck
If it meets GM spec's, then I would also go for it. As far as gas savings, like the a previous poster said, your style of driving will probably save you more.
Me, I go by the book and the filler cap. Good Luck
#31
Safety Car
If it meets GM4718M standards you are fine.... It should be somewhere on the oil container.
Here you go:
Mobil 0W-30
In other words, it's fine...
Here you go:
Mobil 0W-30
In other words, it's fine...
#33
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
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St. Jude Donor '13
Based on the last twenty years of field experience, involving hundreds of thousands of cars; I should expect that my Corvette engine will be worn out after only 200,000 - 300,000 miles if I stay with simple old Mobil1 5W-30.
This is a crisis that demands my immediate attention!
Not.
I did a lot of research and decided that although there are differences in oils, anything that meets the Owner Manual recommendations will work just fine.
Now, I get to spend my time and energy on other things in life.
This is a crisis that demands my immediate attention!
Not.
I did a lot of research and decided that although there are differences in oils, anything that meets the Owner Manual recommendations will work just fine.
Now, I get to spend my time and energy on other things in life.
#34
Instructor
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield Virginia
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Mobil 5w-30 worked just fine in my C5, and I'm sure it will be alright in my C6.
I hear the Honda Insight gets 60 mpg in the city and 66 on the hwy. With its 1 liter engine, it would be a lot cheaper to replace it if the 0w smokes the motor.
I was told by a Chevy mechanic friend of mine, that a lot of the newer cars use the 0w but unless it is recommended, not to use it, as it serves no benefit.
I hear the Honda Insight gets 60 mpg in the city and 66 on the hwy. With its 1 liter engine, it would be a lot cheaper to replace it if the 0w smokes the motor.
I was told by a Chevy mechanic friend of mine, that a lot of the newer cars use the 0w but unless it is recommended, not to use it, as it serves no benefit.
#35
Le Mans Master
This will better explain SAE viscosity and Centistokes to you so you can better understand what you are seeing on the front of the oil-bottle. Here is a quick cut/paste that explains why SAE viscosity is worthless as a measurement compared to cSt.
"Basically to determine non-winter grade viscosity using a viscometer a measured amount of oil at 100° C is allowed to flow through an orifice and timed. Using a table they determine SAE viscosity based on different ranges. Thicker or heavy viscosity oils will take longer to flow through the orifice in the viscometer and end up in higher number ranges such as SAE 50 or SAE 60 for example. If an oil flows through faster being thinner/lighter then it will wind up in a low number range such as SAE 10 or SAE 20 for example. Occasionally it is possible for an oil to barely fall into one viscosity range. For example, an oil is barely an SAE 30 having a time that puts it on the very low side. Then another oil is timed to be an SAE 20 on the high side not quite breaking into the SAE 30 numbers. Technically speaking these oils will be close to the same viscosity even though one is an SAE 20 and the other an SAE 30. But you have to draw the line somewhere and that's how the SAE system is designed. Another system takes more accurate numbers into account known as cSt abbreviated for centistokes. You'll see these numbers used often for industrial lubricants such as compressor or hydraulic oils. The table at the right, SAE Viscosity Chart (High Temp), shows the equivalents for cSt and SAE viscosity numbers. You'll see the ranges for cSt compared to SAE numbers. An oil that is 9.2 cSt will be nearly the same viscosity as an oil that is 9.3 cSt, yet one is an SAE 20 and the other is an SAE 30. This is why the cSt centistokes numbers more accurately show oil viscosity."
#36
Le Mans Master
Based on the last twenty years of field experience, involving hundreds of thousands of cars; I should expect that my Corvette engine will be worn out after only 200,000 - 300,000 miles if I stay with simple old Mobil1 5W-30.
This is a crisis that demands my immediate attention!
Not.
I did a lot of research and decided that although there are differences in oils, anything that meets the Owner Manual recommendations will work just fine.
Now, I get to spend my time and energy on other things in life.
This is a crisis that demands my immediate attention!
Not.
I did a lot of research and decided that although there are differences in oils, anything that meets the Owner Manual recommendations will work just fine.
Now, I get to spend my time and energy on other things in life.
Giving me more time, money and energy to spend on other things in life.
#39
Le Mans Master
I am often amazed by the some of the conventional, button-down, unyielding opinons to the new or different on the Corvette Forum. Maybe these comments happen because a lot of olde men own vettes, and olde men don't like change?
The BITOG he refered to is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
That's where you go to really learn what oil you should use. They base the oil they run off of oil analysis done at their own expense, and use what works.
The BITOG he refered to is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
That's where you go to really learn what oil you should use. They base the oil they run off of oil analysis done at their own expense, and use what works.
I do not consider the opinion of any blogger who has no skin in the game to be more important than the engineers at GM. "bob" is not the one I have to go to if I have a warranty issue with my Vette. Maybe that isn't important to you though.
#40
Race Director
IF its gas mileage you looking to improve on just fill it up two or three times and get an average.. then change the oil, and repeat to see if you get better gas mileage ?
I don't know where else you can look for "Improvement" with that oil change...