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I bought my first corvette a few weeks ago. It's an 06' Lemans Blue 6spd with only 8,000 miles on her. I have what I believe is the common clunk noise in the differential rear end due to not having the latest spec gear oil. I have the four "pucks" needed for lifting and will have the entire car off the ground as I plan on doing an oil change, differential oil change and putting the 1st-4th eliminator resistor on.
So with that said I'm wondering about lifting the car. In any case I will be lifting at the recommended lift points stated in the manual and will start at the front. My question is should I lift one side of the car place my puck in then lower onto jack stand then do the same on other side? OR get two jacks and lift evenly put both pucks in and have car lower onto jack stands evenly?
I can't believe the shell is that fragile on these cars but I'm concerned if I lift one side at a time it could flex quite a bit with the height needed to get onto jack stand and twist/crack something.
I can't believe the shell is that fragile on these cars but I'm concerned if I lift one side at a time it could flex quite a bit with the height needed to get onto jack stand and twist/crack something.
You can put that concern to rest. The steel frame of your C6 is about as rigid and strong as highway bridge decking. It won't flex like a unibody car does when you lift it using a side jacking point. Twice a year I routinely lift Red (a convertible) one corner at a time to swap summer and winter tires/wheels.
While I'd like to have a long enough jack to lift the entire front, lifting mine from the sides has been no problem. (you can easily lift the entire rear with any old jack)
What's interesting is that when you lift from a corner, the entire side comes off the ground: both the front and rear wheel. Never had any other cars that rigid.
These cars are so rigid if you use the side jack points both wheels on the jacking side will come off the ground. Just be sure to use jacking pucks as to not to damage fragile rocker panels. You will not hurt anything if you ae careful and use the jacking pucks and jack stands.
To get the car sitting on jack stands using a floor jack with an adaptor beam is preferable (to lift an end of the car at once). If you go one corner at a time, other than setting the parking brake, chocking the opposing wheels/tires and being on a hard, level surface be careful that the jacking pucks are secure on the jack stand(s). Don't let the jacking puck slip off the jack stand. I saw this happen to a guy at the track a couple years ago.
When jacking my new 1972 I was shocked to find multiple tires coming off the ground while jacking at one point.
The frame is strong
A thing to watch - when you put one jack stand under it, when you lift at the next point, that first jack stand may start to move around on the floor because of the frame dragging the car around.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm heading over to Northern Tools later today to find a low profile jack.
Here is a pic of the Jack Stands I ordered the other day:
Where did you find these jack stands, I like them.
I use two low profile floor jacks, one on each side using the pucks and I put the jacks under the preferred points. I lift the front then the back. You can also lift one side if you want, the guys at the track do it all the time.
I finally picked up a low profile jack today from Northern Tools. It's a Arcan ALJ2T. This jack is great especially compared to my old Craftsman one I have.
Last edited by windcharger; Sep 23, 2010 at 03:58 PM.
Reason: link instead of pic