Well now that things are in the works I thought i might start a thread to track the progress of my build.

As of right now the Engine Block is has been received by the engine builder to build the forged 4.005x4.000" small block with Mahle Forged -4cc relief pistons, SCAT crank and rads and ARP bolts.

The Heads have been shipped to and received by TEA (Total Engine Airflow) to have thier Stage 2 CNC work and valve job done to them.

My local mechanic shop should recieve my LS9 clutch today which i got from Mike at EastCoast Performance. Thanks for the help there. Did the full package and new master along with his LS9 package.

Custom Camshaft has been ordered, 234/238 114+2 LSA .601/.603 with EPS lobes through Patrick G. Hopefully within about 3 weeks on the camshaft. Wanted this for reasonable daily driver and also road racing so a broad torque curve as well.

Small Parts yet to purchase
LS7 lifters (the LS2 replacement)
ATI pulley 10% UD Part#917278
Pfadt Poly Bushings for Z51 Sways (i figured they may as well while they are down there).
PCV Catch Can, either Elite Engineering or CCA.
Stock LS2 timing cover and all the gaskets there. Thought about 2 piece but heard they can leak.
Katech C5R Timing Chain
.045" Cometic Head Gasket 4.030"bore.
New Pushrods (heard stock is better here so they bend and take the major brunt of any possible damaged, not hardened and mess up deeper internals more). So possibly just stock LS2 rods here.

Shooting for about 11.4 compresson ratio as i live in Texas and 93 octane is readily available. From what people keep telling me i should see 500+rwhp with everything now. Tq will be an interesting number to watch with the ported fast which i hear helps torque and the stroker. I should get many pictures of the build.

PICS:
TEA Cylinder Heads on TOP


Bottom of Heads


TEA FLOW Numbers


FAST 102 Intake Manifold


FAST 102 Porting


NW 102MM Throttle Body to Match (proper new LS2 version no harness conversion needed)


FAST 46# Injectors


Halltech CF112 Intake with Filter to mate with the 102mm TB


LS9 Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate from Mike Yeager and EastCoast


Flywheel with Balance sheet


E2 Catch Can to help avoid oil in the new intake manifold


OLD Manifold with oil traces


E2 Tunnel Plate with Thermal Abs


C5R Timing chain to hold the Beast Together.


Here are a few pics of the ShortBlock progress, more to come...




And the only reason the block isn't done one of the Rod Bearings had a "void" in it and needed replaced due to the imperfection.




Check Post 9 for the Damage that started all of this.

 

Nice build going and one that will love the spray

 

subscribing - sounds fun

 

Probably not going to spray the car ever. Sticking N/A as i like the "All motor" side of things. Also the road racing / HPDEs aren't very conducive to spray.

Probably be a month before its all done, but ill work on pics and vidoes as I get them.

 

Deciding to add the FAST102mm Intake Manifold, 102MM NW Throttle body and the Halltech KillerBee II with LS2 conversion to match the 102mm opening all the way in.

Also got word my Heads are done from TEA, .600 flow numbers are 325 intake, 262 exhaust. No pics yet sorry.

 

Alright after talking with Jim Hall i have changed to the SuperBee CF112 with LS2 to LS7 MAF Conversion and the BeeHive to match up with my ported FAST102 and NW102mm TB.

I think i have finally bought all the major pieces.

What is left is the head gaskets - choosing the right thickness for compression ratio and the pushrods and ATI pulley but most of the big triggers are done.

 

Seems that your build is going together nicely and looking forward to a vid and dyno sheet

 

 

When the camshaft bolts sheer off and of course the valves lost thier timing pistons got kissed and a few pushrods got bend and the timing cover seemed to take the brunt of the damage (which is nice since its very minimal).

Problem is with Road Racing being my hobby I didn't want to repair the engine so I went all out with forged internals and the parts you see above.

Heres are pics of the damage.

When we still thought it was the timing chain that broke.


Then we got inside and found the real problem:

Camshaft Bolts sheered off at the front of the cam.





Which of course led to some damage...
Pistons Kissing valves:




Valve Dmg was minimal since i think the pushrods were what ended up bending when things collided. Probably helps it was a stock cam so the lift was also less than an aftermarket cam.

 

Thanks for sharing info with us, Good luck with the build,

 

 

Can anyone explain why the camshaft bolts may have sheered off. The only guess so far has been the UD pulley but that is more linked to timing chains breaking. My timing chain felt smooth running it through my fingers.

Just wondering if I have really bad luck or if anyone can account as to why it occured.

Going with an ATI pulley in the future so i don't think there is a better one, but still wondering if anyone has seen this before?

 

Nice update on the build and your little mishap

 

Small mishap turns into a new motor. I am just hoping with this reasonable cam choice and taking care of it with proper maintenence that it will last me a long time. Break in is crucial.

Anyone have any advice on break in times if my tuner is going to do some dyno break in time before i even put it on the road.

I hear 500 miles to pull the break in our after the first 20min run and change. Vary the RPMs to help the rings continue to seal properly don't stay at a steady RPM, decelerate with the engine some to help vaccum on the oil rings to clean the cylinder walls.

Looking for break in points once i get it back.

 

Only 475rwhp from an LS2 Stroker mated up to an M6?.....that seems pretty weak, no?

Looks like a nice build with good parts.

What kind of tire do you plan on running?

 

Right now just want it back up and running and I have the firestone Wide Oval Indy 500s on there for the Street. I have a 2nd set of wheels i want to run R888s for the HPDEs but that will be a few months.

475 was a very low estimate and was also before i did the ported FAST or the intake. Most people i have talked to have estimated over 500 rwhp and pretty close to that in tq. like 520rwhp/500tq i had someone guess.

I really don't know and if i see 500 ill be happy. Rather shoot low and be surprised.

The lack of restriction with the new intake and also the Manifold should add some power i would hope. My ported heads my be the biggest limiting factor mated with that cam. 225cc intake runner should provide good velocity if it can get enough air in there.

The cam itself isn't for peak numbers its more for a broad power band for the HPDEs and road course. Also still a daily driver so didn't want crazy overlap or annoying idle. I hope its a solid combo that has good power all over the place.

 

Good thread. I'll be looking for a stroker down the road for my S/C'd car and its interesting to see others builds. Thanks for posting and pics.
As the engine breaks in the power #'s should increase some. You will likely get 500 and maybe some on the HP side but I dont think it will make 500 on the TQ end. Let us know the final #'s.
What oil are you using for break in, synthethic or dino?
post up a dyno when you can.

 

Should be a dino, or BR oil. Not sure exactly which one I will check with the shop doing the work before it gets to that stage. Heard good things about Joe Gibbs BR oil for the first 20 min run and drain and then about the next 500-1000 miles. After you get a good break-in then id switch back to synthetic.

 

On my C5 Forged bottom I changed oil after 30 minutes and then again at about 700 miles to the last dino oil and at 1k on the dyno and then changed to Royal Purple at about 1200 miles. Worked great for me as I flagged on my setup for an additional 20k when I totaled my C5 and the motor was going strong with oil changes around 2k as blower motors with meth get dirty sooner

 

Sounds about like what I will do.

Its interesting to learn these engines really don't need a ton of break in time to be able to get on them. I am not going to road race it the first week, but i have seen that the first30 min and drain and then my mechanic was going to break it in on the dyno with fluctuating RPMs over the course of a few hours off and on to work on setting the rings.

Seems also some heat cycles and some off and on harder driving at first may help the rings set properly. As long as I don't cruise at the same speed for too long (which will be nearly impossibly when i have this much new power accessible with the GO pedal) i think the break in should go well. I will probably drive my car waaayyyy to much in the first week or two since i have been without it for nearly 3 months

PeterPan, with your forged internals my builder was saying that the clearence on the cylinders are a bit more since the forged pistons will tend to have a bit more expansion than a hyperuptic (sp) piston so as long as you warm it up properly you should be fine just might hear what may sound like knocking when its cold? Just wondered what your expereince with this was.