Hi
I have a 2006 a6 corvette with 65k miles on the clock. The car has been solid since new, however, a few days ago it started making a squealing/rattling sound. I took the car to the dealership and a few hours later I received a call telling me that the engine needs to be replaced. Reason being it was not receiving any oil, however oil was in it. The price is $10,000 with labor included. So my question is should I just go ahead with this or are there better options. Should I call gm and make a complaint even though the warranty has run out.
Thanks in advance guys,
Stephen

 

No loss of oil pressure? Why would you expect GM to pay for an engine that is having problems outside of warranty?

 

WOW!! That's a little less than half the value of the car!

 

I would ask the dealer to request a good will replacement on your behalf since this is clearly a situation that does not normally happen and apparently did happen without any warning. Maybe you could at least get them to meet you half way on it. Wont hurt to try. No harm no foul.

 

try to get some out of GM if not then tow it to a performance shop and get a better motor for the same price. you already took a hit on resale with the new engine so you should at least get something sweet.

 

For a stock rebuild... 10K is a hell of a high price. 10K should get you a forged bottom end, decent heads and a install with no issues..

To give you an idea....

You can build a pretty nice forged longblock for around 5K and installation isnt 5 grand....


Find someone local to do the labor, find a good machine shop in your area and have them rebuild the engine.

Im sure there are some forum members in your area that are capable of doing an engine swap, god knows id do it for a fraction of that price.

 

I'm guessing they're quoting him a new crate engine + installation. If the OP uses the car as a DD, that might be the better route. Or a donor LS2 from another Corvette. Having an oddball engine can be a pain when something goes wrong or when you go to sell the car.

But I'd want to know more about the original problem...

 

Your OEM warranty is long gone and without any extended warranty its your responsibility and no one else's. You might want to weigh your long term plans for the vehicle but if you decide to keep the car and replace the engine there are certainly better (albeit more expensive) engine choices. If you want to go with the best I suggest a fully built Lingenfelter or Katech motor. I believe LPE provides a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty on many of their applications. You can find less expensive replacement engines but you won't find anything better than Lingenfelter or Katech.

 

that is way way to much money
and it is very weird that it would just do that. i would want to know WHY it did this, and what caused it.

 

Another option is a GM 'hot' crate engine. They make several versions. A warmed LS3 that puts out about 480hp is one I would consider. Dont think its alot more than a stock LS2 replacement. Check the GM hi performance catalog and do some haggling. Their price does seem too high.

 

Seems like 10 grand is an awful lot for a stock replacement - I'd really check into repairing what you have, no need to pay for stuff that's reusable from your engine (manifolds, fuel rails, injectors, etc.). The question I have if you go with a 'crate' engine that's not exactly what was in there (like swapping in an LS3) - can that really be done without opening a can of worms? I just envision a situation where something on the car doesn't work and everyone starts pointing fingers at each other. At least with your own engine rebuilt, or another LS2, there's no question - it will work.

 

Are they replacing the long or short block for $10,000?

 

Hi guys,
I see alot of people have responded to this. The car has been fine and given me zero problems as opposed to my 2005 with the dreaded "service active handling syndrome". The one thing I did notice about the car before this happened is the fact the oil pressure read 152. I thought this was odd so I looked it up on here and saw this being a common occurrence(especially with the c5) and just thought it was a gauge. The noise then started and thats when I knew something was wrong. I will try and find out more about this when I talk to the dealership again tomorrow.
I appreciate all of the responses and insight with what to do with the car. I do not know of any tuners around my area(central Florida) and if you have any recommendations I would appreciate it.

 

Were all happy to help....find out more info as to what the dealer is doing and you have a lot of options for $10,000 and less.

 

Did the 06's not have the 5yr/100,000 mile powertrain warranty?

 

No, I mean yes, err, I don't know...


Actually, you are correct. The 06's do not have 5yr/100,000 mile.

They (2006MY) had 3yr/36,000 mile warr.

 

[QUOTE= You can find less expensive replacement engines but you won't find anything better than Lingenfelter or Katech. [/QUOTE]


This is the biggest fanboy comment ive seen in a while... Got news for you chief. A engine I machine and assemble is going to be just as good as one from LPE or Katech. They both build fine products, but to say that you wont find "anything better" is a bold statement and is clearly untrue. And especially with LPE, your paying for a name. I as well as any other competent person that builds there own engines on this forum can build an engine for a small fraction of what they charge.

And as far as engine warranties go, thats a fine line your doing a dance on. Most engine warranties are not worth the paper there written on.

 

From my own personal experience with the 480hp Hot Cam crate motor, I'd avoid it like the plague. Just search "Hot Cam" in The Tech and General sections and you'll see my plight for TWO YEARS and a few others that have dropped this engine in.

I've had such an ordeal that I am pulling the Hot Cam out next weekend and installing the stock cam just to get back to a normal situation with the running and drivibility of my car. BTW I am certainly no dummy when it comes to cars.

My two biggest complaints are after assurances from GMPP that they would stand behind the install with tech support they dropped me like a hot potato after the install saying the engine doesn't belong in a production vehicle. Second using anything other than their install kit is a nightmare and the install kit doesn't work in a production car.



I'd try to get another opinion from either another dealer or at least an indepndent mechanic. Some dealers have been know to screw people.

If you wanting to stay stock I'd go with a rebuild of your current engine. Even dropping a LS3 in the hole you're going to run into problems with compatability and future explainations when it comes time to sell.

Just my opinion, of course.

 

Wow! didnt think there would be those issues with the LS3/480. I'll dig up your thread to read.
I'm pretty sure that crate engine is listed 'for offroad use only' in the catlog but not 100% sure. I'll have to try and find the catalog book buried under paperwork.
Good luck getting it all worked out.

 

Long long long story short, I seen that in the catalog after purchase. I had a parts manager make me a deal on the engine. I ordered a plain Jane 436 crate motor and they had this one sitting on the floor. It was ordered and never picked up. Guy died or something. Sold this the Hot Cam for the same price as the normal one. I did what just about anybody would I jumped on it. After many many conversation with GMPP before the purchase and install I felt comfortable with the purchase.

After the purchase it's all history. IF my car had been a manual or I was willing to install a stall converter things may have been a little different but I could never get a 100% ruling on the converter and I wasn't going to throw that money down the drain.

The whole problem is at idle and low speed putting around town. It just doesn't like it. The LSA on the cam is so low that the vacuum isn't generated at idle and low speed to keep the ECM happy. Once moving past about 1500 RPM's it'll move like a scalded dog which is great. I just do a lot more DD around town so it's aggravating and embarrassing most of the time with the way the car acts.

I have had no fewer that a half dozen tuners (and myself) work with the car. Some have spent a total of 8 - 10 hours before throwing up their hands. Edmat has been the only one to work his magic and actually get a good idle out of it but it involved so many changes that I realized could be screwed if something happened with the tune inadvertently and that has led to the decision to pull the cam so I am not running around with a highly modified tune. My concern there is if at a mechanic shop or dealer the car gets flashed back to stock or corrupted and not being prepared not having my laptop to correct the situation because the car will not crank or run on the stock tune.

Sorry OP didn't mean to Hijack but this could be some usable info. If not, it's turning into to a good war story.