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Well, I noticed a squeak coming from my engine bay this past weekend, and it looks as if my Harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley is wobbling and will need to be replaced. I just spoke to my shop and got quoted $800 to have it replace - $300 less than dealer so I am not complaining too bad.
My question for the forum: what else should I have done performance or preventative maintenance while my mechanic is in there? Should I go with an aftermarket underdrive pulley (SLP?) or stick with stock? This is a very new area to me so any recommendations are welcomed.
Recommend you visit the your C6 TECH section or advance search there. This is a carry-over problem from C5. Would be good for you to specify what year you got.
Avoid ASP (result in early timing chain failure)
Powerbond (Made in Australia) is a popular choice
ARP bolt w/correct torque procedure w/moly lube not loctite is suggested
Stock bolt is torque to yield meaning it can only be stretched once
Do not re-use stock bolt
OEM bolt for C6 has been changed. New one has diamond grit that digs into balancer once torqued down.
GM tensioners fail early t=2235343
I have a halltech, and I am afraid the cam is going to cost more than I would like to spend at the moment. I just bought wheels, and was going to pull the trigger on an exhaust until this came up... ugh.
If you don't mind me asking, can someone post a pic of what the harmonic balancer looks like. I have a squeak also on 2010 GS with 1200 miles on it. I don't mean to hijack your thread but we may have the same issue and I don't want to have two threads going about the same thing.
Find me above and click the links. Bill Curlee has pics.
I learned more abt this issue after doing Tech research. Had a visible wobble but mine is only from the rubber protruding. The elastic rubber bonds the outer ring and inner hub as one unit. Even a brand new OEM will have uneven rubber seal around the HB a.k.a damper.
Once that elastic bond is history, the outer ring can walk forward or backwards causing a visible wobble on the metal parts. By painting a stripe on the front of the damper across all three portions you can easily see if the outer ring is separating from the rest. You will also see misalignment wear & sometimes the belt will walk off the pulley.
It's prone to failure and worth keeping an eye on C5 & C6.
btw: I myself would not replace it w/25% under drive damper. The PS somewhat cuts back right @ idle and may suddenly become harder to turn catching you off guard. Go for the stock size or 10% under driven. Source is t=2568725
I have a 2010 and had a pulley squeak problem. First time they changed the belt. Next time they changed the pulley. Last time they changed the belt to a Gatorback, based on forum advice, and it has not squeaked since. I had to tell the dealer to try this.
Looks like my balancer change will be including some extra toys.
I figured since I was going in, I might as well go all the way in. I'll be swapping my cam for a Vengeance VRX5, putting in a new roller timing set, Yella Terra roller rockers, Patriot Gold dual springs w/titanium retainers and Trick Flow pushrods. As far as balancers, I think I'm going to go with a Powerbond underdrive. I like the ATI's, just worried about the rebuild requirement.
Since I'll be doing the work myself, I can get just about all of the parts for what it would cost me to have someone do just the balancer.
Here's a link to a great "How To" for the cam replacement, it could be used for just the balancer replacement too. Not sure who put this together, but I'm sure glad they did!!!