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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #41  
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A way I have done radiator draining in the past to clean it out (but not yet on a Vette) was to open the insert a running hose into the fill spout, open the radiator valve, start the engine, adjust the hose flow in to the same amount coming out of the drain valve and let the car idle for a bit. Rev the engine if you want to get the water pump really turning. This continous draining should flush all the junk out. Be sure to turn the engine off before letting all the water drain out of the system and then fill as desired with whatever desired.

Remember to clean up any spilled coolant as the fauna and varmits will try to slurp it up and it will kill them. That includes the family dog. Not sure if this is true for Dex Cool.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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BG machine no disposal fee or mess. On sale when I did mine at the dealer for $89.95 and I had a cup of coffee while I waited.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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Never ever use DeIonized water in your cooling system. It acts just like a corrosive. In a nut shell the water molecule has been stripped of an ion and since it's missing one it will reclaim one with what ever it comes in contact with. The softer the contact material is the easier it gives up its ion. Thats why ultra pure DI water will not readily conduct eletricity. I've seen cement exposed to it over time and it looks like someone poured hydrochloric acid on it.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JacksAO
Never ever use DeIonized water in your cooling system. It acts just like a corrosive. In a nut shell the water molecule has been stripped of an ion and since it's missing one it will reclaim one with what ever it comes in contact with. The softer the contact material is the easier it gives up its ion. Thats why ultra pure DI water will not readily conduct eletricity. I've seen cement exposed to it over time and it looks like someone poured hydrochloric acid on it.
Deionization runs water through a resin bed to remove mineral content ions from the water. It has no effect upn the hydrogen or hydroxide ions which are the natural content in water. The reader should look up "purified water" on Wikipedia where there is an excelent description of the deionization process, distilled water process, and other means of purifying water.

The process of flushing and refiling the coolant system advocated here by BRIM specifies distilled water which I used. However, to suggest that deionized water is corrosive to cooling systems is: BS . Deionized water is routinely used in the stainless steel coolant systems of nuclear power plants to prevent corrosion processes.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #45  
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You know we're all forgetting about the thermostat in this discussion. It's a maintainance item just like the coolant so it should be changed as well. Plus when you remove the thermostat and flush prior to installing the new one, the water does a better job of circulating through the engine unrestricted. Once the flush is completed then install the new thermostat and fill with coolant. Thermostat + o ring = ~$25.

Warren

Last edited by Warren Seale; May 10, 2011 at 12:17 PM.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Silver05GTO
If you bring it to GM, they'll just drain the radiator and refill the coolant.....my local dealer charges $120 for that.

I just did it this morning, needed 2 jugs of 50/50 dexcool from walmart total cost $22. Drained and refilled. I was also at the 5 yr mark and decided might as well do it.
Make sure you use the reccomended GM coolant. With aluminum engines, they can be damaged not using correct coolant....

I had your same dilemma with my yukon....when it hit five years it did NOT have 100k....GM says change at 5 years or 100k....Went to dealer and they said just check it/test it yearly till 100k then change it....

If it was my Vette, I'd do the same until it's seven years/or 100k or so, then change all the fluids irregardless....JMO

add: 100k is enough mileage for any fluid IMO. Otherwise, when not driven I think it's ok to let it stay until 7 years/under 100k....
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Old May 10, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Silver05GTO
If you bring it to GM, they'll just drain the radiator and refill the coolant.....my local dealer charges $120 for that.

I just did it this morning, needed 2 jugs of 50/50 dexcool from walmart total cost $22. Drained and refilled. I was also at the 5 yr mark and decided might as well do it.
If you use 50/50 dex cool after flushing, you will end up with the 50/50 being diluted to less than 50/50 by the water remaining in the block. The 50/50 stuff is intended to be used when adding to the existing coolant mixture. If you simply drain the radiator and then refil with 50/50 without flushing you will have 2 gals of new 50/50 and 4.6 quarts of the old coolant and sludge mixed with it. Full strength DEX COOL should be used after the flush.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #48  
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I haven't seen any tips here on burping the air out of the system. Does the method described here not require this?
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #49  
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I've do this every year on my motorcycles and always used Distilled water. Takes about 2 gallons to do each bike.. I must do it every riding/race season because I have to store the bikes with antifreeze coolant during the winter, but during the spring/summer/fall when I'm on the track I can only run water & water wetter. Antifreeze coolant is not allowed to be used on the track in the advanced group for trackdays or during a sanctioned race event.

At $0.79 cents a gallon for distilled water (less if you buy the big 2.5 gallon container). Why even bother arguing if its worth it or not. Seriously with all the time/money/effort guys put into our Vettes, is it really worth saving $5 bucks to use the water hose or other water source?

Last edited by Daekwan06; May 11, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #50  
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Aren't the machines designed to suck it out through the radiator, not overflow tank?
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Old May 12, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by JJC5
I haven't seen any tips here on burping the air out of the system. Does the method described here not require this?
No problems with air in performing the method specified.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #52  
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Perfect. Thank you for posting instructions

Are these instructions the same for a C5 or C4?
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Old May 15, 2011 | 12:16 AM
  #53  
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I think some are over thinking this rather simple maintenance procedure. I see no reason for the repeated flushing with distilled water is necessary. Modern engines just don't get crudded up as much as the olde iron blocks did.

On my LS1, I drained the radiator, cleaned the coolant recovery reservoir, and to get every ounce of old antifreeze out, I removed the block drain plugs. They were listed as Engine Drain, Right Side/Left Side.

Buy the pure DexCool fluid, not the 50/50 mix. Don't pay extra $$ for the DexCool manufacturer to add water!!! Yes, use distilled water as extra insurance, but it is not strictly necessary.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 01:06 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Marc V.
From my experience as an auto tech, I would recommend using Prestone Dex Cool.

There have been a lot of problems with GM Dex Cool in the past, like corroding and clogging radiators and heater cores.

I never saw any issues with Prestone Dex Cool.
DexCool gels when air gets into the system. I don't think it has anything to do with the brand.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 07:44 AM
  #55  
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Repeated flushings with distilled water simply let the rest of the coolant that is not removed by draining the radiator by itself to be expelled, The radiator drain will only remove about 8 quarts of the total thats in the system. The remainder needs to be flushed out if you want the system to have no old coolant left in it.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #56  
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" Like was said by like dem vettes - "DexCool gels when air gets into the system. I don't think it has anything to do with the brand."

I had stored about 1/3 gal of Dex cool I had mixed up to 50/50 for a flush and stored it for future use. Several years later to my suprise when I opened the jusg to top off my truck, Yikes, it came out like
gloobs of 1/2 set up jello !!!!!

Never really understood it but per like'em's comment you can belive it.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
Repeated flushings with distilled water simply let the rest of the coolant that is not removed by draining the radiator by itself to be expelled, The radiator drain will only remove about 8 quarts of the total thats in the system. The remainder needs to be flushed out if you want the system to have no old coolant left in it.
Still over thinking this rather simple maintenance procedure. You want all the anti-freeze out? Remove the block drain plugs. They were listed in the service manual as Engine Drain, Right Side/Left Side.

So, no reason for the repeated flushing with distilled water is necessary, unless some guys don't have a 17mm allen drive socket and would rather buy jugs of water instead of admitting it?
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Old May 15, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #58  
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So, no reason for the repeated flushing with distilled water is necessary, unless some guys don't have a 17mm allen drive socket and would rather buy jugs of water instead of admitting it? [/QUOTE]

Or some guys dont want to crawl around under their car removing plugs and would rather stand up and pour 80 cent water in the resevoir.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
I gave in and had the dealer do it also for $200 (ouch). On the invoice in addition to the coolant they have radiator protectant and radiator cleaner listed. The overflow tank had some crud in it and they actually took the tank off and cleaned it out, I was sitting in the waiting room and the service manager brought the tank out to ask me if it was clean enough. So I think the dealer does more than drain it and add new stuff.
You are lucky you have a good dealer.Down here they don't know **** & don't give a ****!!
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 07:00 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Brim
Here are my notes that I gathered from the forum:

Change coolant every 5 years or 150,000 miles, which ever comes first.

Buy 2 gals Prestone Dex Cool (Walmart) and 6 gals distilled water. I used 5 gals of distilled water this year and flushed it twice. I think three flushes would have been better.

1) Drain coolant (drain plug is on passenger side). Approx. 8 qts out of 12.6 qts will actually drain.
2) Refill surge tank to the neck with distilled water. It will take a while to replace the 8 qts or whatever was drained.
3) Start engine, idle 4 min
4) Top off surge tank
5) Rev engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 2 more min. (temp should reach ~200 F)
6) Shutoff engine, cool for 20 minutes
7) Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid drains clear (2-4 flushes)
8) Refill with 6.3 qts Dex Cool (it's a slow process) and then top off with distilled water.
9) Repeat steps 3-5, take test drive, refill as necessary with distilled water.
10) Dispose of your old antifreeze at a recycling center.
Any need to run the heater for steps 3 through 5?
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