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I just had mine done at a Chevy store. 2006 with 20k. I went in to inquire about what they did and prices. They just got a new BG cooling system machine. I had a two trucks done with same machine a few months back at another shop.. Its pretty trick. It uses vacuum and sucks every bit of fliud,crud out of the cooling system,heater core etc. Then they cleaned overflow tank added about two gallons of Dex cool. $89.95
I posted on this a while back. It was the best repair I've ever done to any Vette I've owned. Cost me $120 at a stealership. My vehicle was running hot, about 215 to 220 in city and 200 on the highway.
It was a 2006 with 25K miles. Did the dealership flush with the machine. The temp change was unbelievable. Afterward, I ran 180 on the highway and no more than 190-195 on the highway. When I left the dealership, I was in the city and kept waiting for the needle to climb. It never did.
Hi All
It is EZ to do at home. If you would like to raise the car a little higher get a couple of 2x12 boards and drive the car up. It will make it EZer to get a pan under the car. Drain the system and refill. You can flush if need be. I do mine once a year. It changes 2/3 of the cooling system.
Cheep insurance to keep all clean and corrosion free.
I posted on this a while back. It was the best repair I've ever done to any Vette I've owned. Cost me $120 at a stealership. My vehicle was running hot, about 215 to 220 in city and 200 on the highway.
It was a 2006 with 25K miles. Did the dealership flush with the machine. The temp change was unbelievable. Afterward, I ran 180 on the highway and no more than 190-195 on the highway. When I left the dealership, I was in the city and kept waiting for the needle to climb. It never did.
Just called Vandergriff Chevy and they charge $120 for flush. Forgot to ask if they have the machine.
Going in the morning with my 07 with 85k. Also just ordered new plugs, wires and heat socks.
1) Drain coolant (drain plug is on passenger side). Approx. 8 qts out of 12.6 qts will actually drain.
2) Refill surge tank to the neck with distilled water. It will take a while to replace the 8 qts or whatever was drained.
3) Start engine, idle 4 min
4) Top off surge tank
5) Rev engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 2 more min. (temp should reach ~200 F)
6) Shutoff engine, cool for 20 minutes
7) Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid drains clear (2-4 flushes)
8) Refill with 6.3 qts Dex Cool (it's a slow process) and then top off with distilled water.
9) Repeat steps 3-5, take test drive, refill as necessary with distilled water.
10) Dispose of your old antifreeze at a recycling center.
I need some help here please. between steps 1 and 2, do you re-plug the drain?
Between 3 and 4, I assume its OK to keep the cap off the surge tank?
Step 4, I am assuming the thermostat is opening and closing to let more water/coolant in from the surge tank and the old coolant is getting dumped in the radiator?
Why is step 6 required?
I assume by step 7 the engine is completely void of Dex Cool and now filled 100% with Water?
Any hazard if the mix is 60% Dex cool and 40% water?
It's always better to never put water in the radiator IMO. I'd drain the coolant more frequently than normal, so only a drain/refill is necessary. Coolant and brake fluid are often neglected, and it's super cheap to do both yourself. Good luck.
I need some help here please. between steps 1 and 2, do you re-plug the drain?
Between 3 and 4, I assume its OK to keep the cap off the surge tank?
Step 4, I am assuming the thermostat is opening and closing to let more water/coolant in from the surge tank and the old coolant is getting dumped in the radiator?
Why is step 6 required?
I assume by step 7 the engine is completely void of Dex Cool and now filled 100% with Water?
Any hazard if the mix is 60% Dex cool and 40% water?
I thought this was a really good suggestion. I just got my baseline temperature ranges at both highway and parking lot speeds (LS2 M6 Z51). Ambient temperature was about 84 degrees.
Oil temp. 200 - 214
Coolant temp. 190 - 210
Engine temp. 195-210
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Now you've got me confused- what is this "Engine temp" you mentioned that is different from the Oil temp and Coolant temp?
Oil temp was displayed when I cycled through the display. I am referring to the gauge left of the tachometer as engine temp.
I thought this was a really good suggestion. I just got my baseline temperature ranges at both highway and parking lot speeds (LS2 M6 Z51). Ambient temperature was about 84 degrees.
Oil temp. 200 - 214
Coolant temp. 190 - 210
Engine temp. 195-210
Originally Posted by important
Oil temp was displayed when I cycled through the display. I am referring to the gauge left of the tachometer as engine temp.
The gauges to the left of the tach are oil pressure and coolant temp.
The coolant temp on that gauge should read the same as coolant temp on the DIC, but it can fluctuate in normal operation and so you need to be quick to get the same reading on both.
But your temperatures are all normal for a fully warm engine.
I need some help here please. between steps 1 and 2, do you re-plug the drain?
Between 3 and 4, I assume its OK to keep the cap off the surge tank?
Step 4, I am assuming the thermostat is opening and closing to let more water/coolant in from the surge tank and the old coolant is getting dumped in the radiator?
Why is step 6 required?
I assume by step 7 the engine is completely void of Dex Cool and now filled 100% with Water?
Any hazard if the mix is 60% Dex cool and 40% water?
Thank you,
Yes, re-plug the drain between steps 1 and 2. I put the surge tank cap back on between steps 3 and 4. Yes, steps 3-5 are to ensure the t-stat opens to allow for your old coolant to be further diluted by your new distilled water. Step 6 helps to keep you from burning your hand with hot coolant as you remove the drain plug again (30 minutes might be better). The goal by step 7 is for old coolant to be diluted with enough fresh water that it's close enough to being considered 100% water. It's recommended to have a 50/50 mixture of Dex-Cool and water. Antifreeze is a corrosion inhibitor, a lubricant, lowers the freezing point, but plain water transfers heat better. Anyway, I don't think there's a hazard with a 60/40 ratio of Dex-Cool to water, but I shoot for the recommended 50/50 ratio.
Yes, re-plug the drain between steps 1 and 2. I put the surge tank cap back on between steps 3 and 4. Yes, steps 3-5 are to ensure the t-stat opens to allow for your old coolant to be further diluted by your new distilled water. Step 6 helps to keep you from burning your hand with hot coolant as you remove the drain plug again (30 minutes might be better). The goal by step 7 is for old coolant to be diluted with enough fresh water that it's close enough to being considered 100% water. It's recommended to have a 50/50 mixture of Dex-Cool and water. Antifreeze is a corrosion inhibitor, a lubricant, lowers the freezing point, but plain water transfers heat better. Anyway, I don't think there's a hazard with a 60/40 ratio of Dex-Cool to water, but I shoot for the recommended 50/50 ratio.
With open systems on other cars how vital is it to use distilled water? I mean I do mix the distilled water with the anti-freeze but when I flush the radiator system using a water hose, the water here is very hard water might that have contributed to the scale that formed inside my new 3 row radiator? That hard water is still in the system it cannot be avoided even when it finally runs clear it's still hard water.
Change coolant every 5 years or 150,000 miles, which ever comes first.
Buy 2 gals Prestone Dex Cool (Walmart) and 6 gals distilled water. I used 5 gals of distilled water this year and flushed it twice. I think three flushes would have been better.
1) Drain coolant (drain plug is on passenger side). Approx. 8 qts out of 12.6 qts will actually drain.
2) Refill surge tank to the neck with distilled water. It will take a while to replace the 8 qts or whatever was drained.
3) Start engine, idle 4 min
4) Top off surge tank
5) Rev engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 2 more min. (temp should reach ~200 F)
6) Shutoff engine, cool for 20 minutes
7) Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid drains clear (2-4 flushes)
8) Refill with 6.3 qts Dex Cool (it's a slow process) and then top off with distilled water.
9) Repeat steps 3-5, take test drive, refill as necessary with distilled water.
10) Dispose of your old antifreeze at a recycling center.
This is exactly what the dealership did when they changed my anti-freeze. They put it up on a rack it may have been at a slight angle as I cannot remember to get it most of it drained. There is no machine for this. I watched them do this and it is a simple process you can do yourself.
I don't remember if they turned on the heater or not or if that makes any difference.
It must be with these closed systems that you can't flush them like the older cooling systems with a hose to run till the water is clear and free of any color oil/anti-freeze.
Yes, re-plug the drain between steps 1 and 2. I put the surge tank cap back on between steps 3 and 4. Yes, steps 3-5 are to ensure the t-stat opens to allow for your old coolant to be further diluted by your new distilled water. Step 6 helps to keep you from burning your hand with hot coolant as you remove the drain plug again (30 minutes might be better). The goal by step 7 is for old coolant to be diluted with enough fresh water that it's close enough to being considered 100% water. It's recommended to have a 50/50 mixture of Dex-Cool and water. Antifreeze is a corrosion inhibitor, a lubricant, lowers the freezing point, but plain water transfers heat better. Anyway, I don't think there's a hazard with a 60/40 ratio of Dex-Cool to water, but I shoot for the recommended 50/50 ratio.
Thanks for the post and reply, should be a sticky!
I posted on this a while back. It was the best repair I've ever done to any Vette I've owned. Cost me $120 at a stealership. My vehicle was running hot, about 215 to 220 in city and 200 on the highway.
It was a 2006 with 25K miles. Did the dealership flush with the machine. The temp change was unbelievable. Afterward, I ran 180 on the highway and no more than 190-195 on the highway. When I left the dealership, I was in the city and kept waiting for the needle to climb. It never did.
Does the coolant in the reservoir/surge tank circulate through the entire system, as it does with the block, radiator and hoses?? Reason I'm asking is when I refilled my system (step #8 below from Brim's process), I wound up topping off the reservoir with 8 quarts (intentionally) of 100% coolant. Evidently, the system was full at that point and it didn't need any water to bring it up to full capacity. I want to make sure the coolant in the reservoir makes it into the rest of the system to avoid winding up with too much water in the block and radiator (I live in NY and use the car throughout the winter). I also don't want my reservoir caking up eventually from pure coolant that's in it. I have a feeling the answer is no, but I hope I'm wrong.
8) Refill with 6.3 qts Dex Cool (it's a slow process) and then top off with distilled water.