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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by joe11756
Does the coolant in the reservoir/surge tank circulate through the entire system, as it does with the block, radiator and hoses?
Of course the coolant flowes througout the engine, et al.

The car will have to be high idled or better yet driven for say an hour - WITH THE PASSENGER HEATER ON FULL HOT AND HIGH - to fully circulate the coolant throughout the engine and heating system.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #102  
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So the coolant in the reservoir itself is constantly circulating through the rest of the system when fully warmed up?? I was under the impression the reservoir was only used to let more coolant into the rest of the system if needed, or excess coolant out if there was too much in the rest of the system.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by joe11756
So the coolant in the reservoir itself is constantly circulating through the rest of the system when fully warmed up?? I was under the impression the reservoir was only used to let more coolant into the rest of the system if needed, or excess coolant out if there was too much in the rest of the system.
You can probably see it circulate if the engine is hot (thermostat open) and the reservoir cap is off. You should see the coolant circulate. Dont worry...everything is AOK!
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 05:35 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by joliett
Of course the coolant flowes througout the engine, et al.

The car will have to be high idled or better yet driven for say an hour - WITH THE PASSENGER HEATER ON FULL HOT AND HIGH - to fully circulate the coolant throughout the engine and heating system.
Hope your top comes off for heat dissipation.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 08:18 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by orca1946
Why not flush with hose water?

The factory uses plain tap water w/Dex-Cool went filling up the cooling system on all of their vehicles. Dex-Cool neutralizes most of the minerals in tap water (I think this is in the owner's manual).

Personally, I have the dealer use a machine (Wynn's or BG or other brand) for a complete flush with a cleaner & a conditioner with Prestone Dex-Cool 50/50...$129.95, Then I add one bottle of Red Line Water Wetter for corrosion protection.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #106  
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ok, thanks joliett. just wanted a confirmation.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #107  
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Personally, I have the dealer use a machine (Wynn's or BG or other brand) for a complete flush with a cleaner & a conditioner with Prestone Dex-Cool 50/50...$129.95, Then I add one bottle of Red Line Water Wetter for corrosion protection.[/QUOTE]

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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 11:07 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Cruncher
The factory uses plain tap water w/Dex-Cool went filling up the cooling system on all of their vehicles. Dex-Cool neutralizes most of the minerals in tap water (I think this is in the owner's manual).

Personally, I have the dealer use a machine (Wynn's or BG or other brand) for a complete flush with a cleaner & a conditioner with Prestone Dex-Cool 50/50...$129.95, Then I add one bottle of Red Line Water Wetter for corrosion protection.
Flushing like that is illegal here.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by calemasters
It is "time" for new coolant.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by calemasters
It is "time" for new coolant.
How about recycled coolant?
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #111  
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Whats illegal about using machines designed for such?
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #112  
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Call it overkill but I change out my coolant every 2 years on all my cars including my C6.....coolant is realtively cheap.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #113  
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Ok. Its overkill.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #114  
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what do you think of adding either...... Purple Ice – Radiator Coolant Additive or Redline Water Wetter?

I like the idea of adding a little extra layer to provide rust and corrosion protection.....and maybe lower my temp a little in the process. Sounds like a win-win.

what do u thinks
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 11:03 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Ketchum
Whats illegal about using machines designed for such?
That's California and the EPA for ya
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:08 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by joliett
Of course the coolant flowes througout the engine, et al.

The car will have to be high idled or better yet driven for say an hour - WITH THE PASSENGER HEATER ON FULL HOT AND HIGH - to fully circulate the coolant throughout the engine and heating system.
Of course the system is 'closed'. All cooling car cooling systems are closed. Older systems have a radiator cap with a 2-way valve and a hose that leads to a non-pressurized recovery tank. When the pressure go high, the coolant can push out to the recovery tank. When the rad cools, a vacumn is produced, the 2 way valve will open and coolant is pulled from the overflow back into the radiator.

The Corvette is different in the plastic jug where you can add coolant is pressurized all the time, just like the rest of the system. It is called a 'surge' tank in a system like this. Coolant circulates thru it all the time, and as I said it is pressurized the same as the rest of the system. A coolant recovery tank is not pressurized.

The heater core does not have a cutoff valve. Coolant circulates all the time thru it. There is no need to 'turn the heater on'.

Buy 50/50 coolant mix, or buy 100% coolant and a jug of distilled water and mix it to a 50/50 mix with the water. Don't go adding 100% coolant and topping off with water. Buy 50/50 or mix your own, you then have the correct mix to put back in.

The service manual says to just drain out what you can get out and refill with new 50/50 mix. GM feels the remaining Dexcool will still be good for another 5 years. I think this is the best thing to do.

Trying to flush with a hose or even distilled water will mean you need to use a different approach to re-adding coolant. If you flush with water, you should look in the manual and see what the total amount of coolant the system will hold. Mine says 12.6 quarts. Assuming you flushed the system with water, you assume whatever remains in the system after the water flush is 100% water. So, to get the 50/50 mix, pour in 6.3 quarts of 100% coolant and top off with water. No matter how much water you start out with, this brings you back to a 50/50 mix.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #117  
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From what I've read of Dexcool horror stories, the problem comes from running a cooling system that is not 'full'. If you let the coolant drop, and let metal parts of the system get air on them, the Dexcool may cause problems. If you keep the system full of coolant, keeping air out of the system, Dexcool will not cause problems.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by bolivar
From what I've read of Dexcool horror stories, the problem comes from running a cooling system that is not 'full'. If you let the coolant drop, and let metal parts of the system get air on them, the Dexcool may cause problems. If you keep the system full of coolant, keeping air out of the system, Dexcool will not cause problems.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 12:59 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by bolivar
Of course the system is 'closed'. All cooling car cooling systems are closed. Older systems have a radiator cap with a 2-way valve and a hose that leads to a non-pressurized recovery tank. When the pressure go high, the coolant can push out to the recovery tank. When the rad cools, a vacumn is produced, the 2 way valve will open and coolant is pulled from the overflow back into the radiator.

The Corvette is different in the plastic jug where you can add coolant is pressurized all the time, just like the rest of the system. It is called a 'surge' tank in a system like this. Coolant circulates thru it all the time, and as I said it is pressurized the same as the rest of the system. A coolant recovery tank is not pressurized.

The heater core does not have a cutoff valve. Coolant circulates all the time thru it. There is no need to 'turn the heater on'.

Buy 50/50 coolant mix, or buy 100% coolant and a jug of distilled water and mix it to a 50/50 mix with the water. Don't go adding 100% coolant and topping off with water. Buy 50/50 or mix your own, you then have the correct mix to put back in.

The service manual says to just drain out what you can get out and refill with new 50/50 mix. GM feels the remaining Dexcool will still be good for another 5 years. I think this is the best thing to do.

Trying to flush with a hose or even distilled water will mean you need to use a different approach to re-adding coolant. If you flush with water, you should look in the manual and see what the total amount of coolant the system will hold. Mine says 12.6 quarts. Assuming you flushed the system with water, you assume whatever remains in the system after the water flush is 100% water. So, to get the 50/50 mix, pour in 6.3 quarts of 100% coolant and top off with water. No matter how much water you start out with, this brings you back to a 50/50 mix.
That's exactly what the dealership did with my car just drained out coolant and replaced back with same. (I provided them with Amsoil coolant instead). So it's actually easier as you don't have to flush it because you can't so it easier just to do it yourself this way as I was told.
Now on my other car I was able to do a complete flush but the water I used is very hard water (tap water) so that's why I think my new 3 row radiator in my other car ended up with scale inside or whatever that stuff is that grows inside. I did use distilled water in the original mix but it was the hard water that was used to flush system that probably caused this problem.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 01:00 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by bolivar
From what I've read of Dexcool horror stories, the problem comes from running a cooling system that is not 'full'. If you let the coolant drop, and let metal parts of the system get air on them, the Dexcool may cause problems. If you keep the system full of coolant, keeping air out of the system, Dexcool will not cause problems.
Is the Amsoil considered to be Dexcool equivalent? It sure does cost alot more than Dexcool anti-freeze.
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