How many people change your brake fluid ?????????
05-10-2011, 07:05 PM
#41
Drifting
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I bet 1.0 labor and plus fliud. I use to charge .8 with other maintenance work or 1.0 just stand alone. When I retired labor was in the mid $60 per hour. Did lots of this on imports. Domestic owners weren't as keen about servicing like import owners.
05-10-2011, 09:18 PM
#42
Melting Slicks
My car has 13K on it, changed the fluid when I painted my calipers a few months ago The old fluid was pretty nasty!
05-10-2011, 09:24 PM
#43
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
05-10-2011, 09:39 PM
#44
Racer
What I do every 3 years at the same time I jack it up to inspect underneath. This worked well for me although fluid in the ABS system does not get changed. Need 2 pints of DOT 4 fluid and 2 drain pans.
1- Jack car, pull wheels
2- Suck fluid from master cylinder with baster, protecting bodywork, then pour in new fluid
3- put drain pans under right rear and left front calipers, open bleed screws and gravity bleed for 15 minutes. Fluid should start to run clear. MAKE SURE reservoir does not run dry
4-tighten bleeders, fill fluid and repeat for left rear and right front
5- tighten, fill and clean up fluid dripping off calipers
1- Jack car, pull wheels
2- Suck fluid from master cylinder with baster, protecting bodywork, then pour in new fluid
3- put drain pans under right rear and left front calipers, open bleed screws and gravity bleed for 15 minutes. Fluid should start to run clear. MAKE SURE reservoir does not run dry
4-tighten bleeders, fill fluid and repeat for left rear and right front
5- tighten, fill and clean up fluid dripping off calipers
05-10-2011, 10:35 PM
#45
Tech Contributor
WHy Change Brake Fluid
Just changed brake fluid on an '08 with 20K mi. It looked pretty well roasted and had a lot of rust.
This article has a very good explanation of why brake fluid needs to be changed.
Given the ABS and how the stability control uses the brakes to steer the car I would think it's much more important to keep the fluid clean than in the old days.
This article has a very good explanation of why brake fluid needs to be changed.
Given the ABS and how the stability control uses the brakes to steer the car I would think it's much more important to keep the fluid clean than in the old days.
05-10-2011, 10:51 PM
#46
Le Mans Master
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Brake fluid is not in a sealed system. It absorbs moisture and that will adversely affect the boiling point of the fluid.
It also leads to rust internally and deterioration of internal seals. That's why fluid will turn darker in color in time. The fluid should be clear.
Unless you are tracking your car, 2 times a year is quite excessive.
Every 2-3 years is a good interval otherwise.
You can definitely feel an improvement in pedal feel with new fluid.
The turkey baster method is good to get the fluid out of the reservior. Fill with clean fluid and bleed the brakes at each wheel to flush the old fluid from the lines and calipers. ABS bleeding is benefical, but not necessary.
It also leads to rust internally and deterioration of internal seals. That's why fluid will turn darker in color in time. The fluid should be clear.
Unless you are tracking your car, 2 times a year is quite excessive.
Every 2-3 years is a good interval otherwise.
You can definitely feel an improvement in pedal feel with new fluid.
The turkey baster method is good to get the fluid out of the reservior. Fill with clean fluid and bleed the brakes at each wheel to flush the old fluid from the lines and calipers. ABS bleeding is benefical, but not necessary.
05-10-2011, 10:59 PM
#47
Safety Car
Interesting article. I have found the hydraulics rust and fail before the pads if the fluid is not changed. If its kept changed it may last the life of the car. ABS units are expensive so if they leak big cost.
05-10-2011, 11:14 PM
#48
Race Director
Now which DOT fluid should i use. the owner manuals says DOT3 only but im guessing back in 2005 thats the only dot that was available.
I use Prestone DOT 4 synthetic for my clutch fluid changes and on the bottle it says that you can use the Prestone DOT 4 for any dot 3 or dot 4 system and its compatable with any conventional brake fluids.
when i went to grab the bottle of prestone DOT 3 synthetic fluid it didnt say that it was compatable with any other fluids so thats why i didnt buy it.
What do you guys recommend? should i USe the Prestone DOT 4 or should i just go to the GM parts store and get there brake fluid?
I use Prestone DOT 4 synthetic for my clutch fluid changes and on the bottle it says that you can use the Prestone DOT 4 for any dot 3 or dot 4 system and its compatable with any conventional brake fluids.
when i went to grab the bottle of prestone DOT 3 synthetic fluid it didnt say that it was compatable with any other fluids so thats why i didnt buy it.
What do you guys recommend? should i USe the Prestone DOT 4 or should i just go to the GM parts store and get there brake fluid?
you can use DOT 4 year-round; has a higher boiling point.
05-10-2011, 11:33 PM
#49
You got some good advice here, but one thing nobody mentioned is this. Try to buy brake fluid that is new at the store. (Talk to the parts guys) Even though the plastic container is sealed, plastic is porous and the brake fluid is hygroscopic. It will absorb moisture from the air in a sealed container. Don't know this for a fact but have read it in several articles from trusted sources, so I believe it. I change mine annually or whenever I rotate tires on my other vehicles and annually on the Corvette. It is proven to help parts, especially ABS controllers to last longer and have less long term failures. I recommend a change every two years to friends. I always use the brake fluid listed on the cap.
05-11-2011, 03:08 AM
#54
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Yes, every two years. The reasons have been addressed by others above.
The old fluid I remove is not pretty, but not extra chunky, either, just discolored (due to water absorption and resulting corrosion).
It's very easy to do, I do it in parallel with taking off the tires and wheels when I clean them and do suspension and brake inspections.
Only adds about 15 minutes to my routine, or about 1/2 a beer.
The old fluid I remove is not pretty, but not extra chunky, either, just discolored (due to water absorption and resulting corrosion).
It's very easy to do, I do it in parallel with taking off the tires and wheels when I clean them and do suspension and brake inspections.
Only adds about 15 minutes to my routine, or about 1/2 a beer.
05-11-2011, 07:25 AM
#56
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think you have converted me to be a brake fluid changer. I just HATE to take it to the dealer for something that I can't do myself that would only cost 20 bucks at home. I do my own oil changes but don't feel comfortable messing with the brakes. Oh well ,I guess I will go bend over at the dealer and get it done. 
05-11-2011, 01:17 PM
#58
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
You got some good advice here, but one thing nobody mentioned is this. Try to buy brake fluid that is new at the store. (Talk to the parts guys) Even though the plastic container is sealed, plastic is porous and the brake fluid is hygroscopic. It will absorb moisture from the air in a sealed container.
Some fluids like Ate Super Blue (or Ate Typ 200 - same thing in amber color) come in a metal can, which allows you longer shelf life before opening. This is what I use in my sports cars,
05-11-2011, 09:48 PM
#59
Tech Contributor
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think you have converted me to be a brake fluid changer. I just HATE to take it to the dealer for something that I can't do myself that would only cost 20 bucks at home. I do my own oil changes but don't feel comfortable messing with the brakes. Oh well ,I guess I will go bend over at the dealer and get it done.
There is an instructional post earlier that explains how but it is good to have someone who has done it before help the first time. I'm sure you local Corvette club can help. It is easier to show someone than describe.
