C4RACER

I do it every 2-3 years on all my street cars. Used to do it after every race weekend on a track car.

BadAV

Every two years in all of my vehicles. Like others have stated, it's cheap insurance against an expensive ABS module failure.

AORoads

no, but it's less than an hour's work where I get it done.

why not take it to DRM? not too far from you, and they're good people.

redls3

Whats the difference between prestone dot 4 synthetic and Motul RBF 600 dot 4 synthetic,

BEZ06

Mostly the difference is boiling point.

Prestone is good stuff, but it's usually not in a list of racing brake fluids.

Take a look at this StopTech document about brake fluids. You'll see where Motul fits in on the list of top end fluids:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml


Bob

66biskwik

Has anyone ever tried 5.1?

azc62006

here is what i found on line.i had mine flushed on my other c6. when you look at you brake fluid if it isnt yellowish in color its not performing as well as it should. if it is brown or blackish it NEEDS to be flushed... below explains why it turns that dark color... and dot 4 can be mixed with dot 3.

Brake fluid attracts moisture, and this moisture can rust the insides of the brake system. This moisture was not that big of deal 10 years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do lots of internal damage, and can be very costly. Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system.
so do you really wanna use old rules???

azc62006

you might want to try making friends with your mechanic at the dealership.... some have the tech 2 device and most do work after hours which saves us money... all you buy in the fluid and supply a place to do the job that = him making side money. i paid our mech $120 to change my pads,replace the rotors, and flush the system....

Ketchum

Thats a good way to get your friend"tech" fired. Also they are not insured if any damage happens to your vehicle or themselves which leaves you, the car owner liable . The real pros I have known over the years would NOT do side work for those very reasons.

mikeCsix

I replace my fluid as often as necessary. When my car came in late last year, the fluid was dark, (2008 with 5k miles), so I replaced the fluid along with the brake lines - I went to stainless steel braided lines and really like them. If I do a track day this year, I'll flush the brake lines again. I REALLY don't want to face brake fade at high speed while entering a turn.

With only 5k on the odometer, the fluid can absorb water with the car just sitting around.

Along with replacing the brake lines I also installed a set of speed bleeders which really helps the process. I tried vacuum bleeding with my mity-vac, I tried reverse-pressure bleeding (disaster - more air into the lines which wasn't obvious at the time) with one of those phoenix bleeders and I'm not too interested to try the inexpensive pressure bleeder without a diaphram between the fluid and the air, too easy to introduce small bubbles under pressure into the fluid which are hard to see.

C8-Vette

$100 in NY.

VatorMan

I've flushed my brake fluid so many times I can do it blindfolded. After every track event. Every time.

BEZ06

Yes - YOU HAVE!!!!

At least in your clutch.

The fluid put into your clutch hydraulic system at the factory is a Super DOT 4.

Take a look at this StopTech document to read about DOT 5.1 and you'll see that it's often called Super DOT 4 or DOT 4 Plus:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml


In there you can read that the DOT 5.1 spec was only established to designate glycol ether/borate ester DOT 3 and 4 fluids that meet the DOT 5 silicone fluid boiling point standards.

If you look at the list of 10 fluids at the very bottom of the article you'll see that the top 6 exceed the DOT 5 and 5.1 specs that are listed earlier on the page. I think all of those are just called DOT 4 by the manufacturers, except for the Motul 5.1.

BTW, at the top of the article it says:

Bob

66biskwik

Thanks for the info. I put DOT 5 in a 66 Chevelle I restored once since I replaced all the brake components. Figured it was the smart thing to do since there wouldn't be a water problem hence no rust. Worked out okay I guess though the pedal felt a little spongy but I never did it on any of the others I restored.

LKicklight

Changed mine when we installed the SS Braided Brake Hose..used the good Blue Stuff, higher heat range, much better brakes with the SS Hose..100% improvement over stock..well worth the hundred bucks..for the upgrade..

Like dem Vettes

Clutch and brake fluid every two years with BG Super DOT 4.

Rocketmanwpb

Every two years at the dealer so that they can also drain the ABS unit.

LionGS

redls3

so far the best fluid for brake and clutch fluid recommended by the top brake specialists and most road course race guys is

1)Castrol SRF being number 1 but also the most expensive at $70 a liter.
590 F dry boiling point and 518 F wet boiling point.

2)Motul RBf600 is probably the best at the best price at about $15.99 for 500ml.

has a 593 F dry boiling point and 420 F wet boiling point. it is also nitrogen filled so it doesnt absorb moisture or water vapor from the air because brake fluid is hydroscopic.



but im extremely happy with prestone synthetic dot 4. I just finished the easiest brake flush procedure similar to the ranger method for the clutch fluid. My original brake reservoir fluid was brownish black and im guessing it was never changed since the car was new. So i simply removed the old fluid with a turkey baster and cleaned the inside of the reservoir with a bounty paper towel to get the residue off the inside plastic walls. I then added the new fluid and filled to the max line. I drove for a couple hours yesterday and when i came back the fluid was dark again so i proceeded with removing and adding new fluid again. All in all it took about two days of driving and 2 (500ml) bottles of the prestone to completely flush the system with new fluid without having to even remove any wheels or bleed the brakes.

The fluid now is perfectly clean and has a slight yellow tint to it. According to the experts brembo/stoptech etc.... if the brake reservoir has a slight yellow tint to it, that means the abs and the complete system is functioning correctly. And i can personally vouch that after doing the above procedure its a complete difference in braking i have a much firmer pedal feel.

R&L's C6

So the dirty brake fluid down by the calipers finds its way back up to the reservoir? This sounds like a easy way to do this if it works.