Well, my backup lights work fine too, until I get the shift to reverse fit! I setup and used my cell phone camera to record and verify that my lights definitely do not come on when I'm getting the shift to reverse error. Hoping that second switch comes in soon.

 

Does the transmission fluid run out when switches are removed?

 

NO, the fill level of the trans is below the switch level locations.

 

Does anyone have a link to where I can get the switch for my 2006 Z06?
Much appreciated

 

Number 7
http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.co...verse%20switch


ACDelco #89060011

https://jet.com/product/detail/b218e...MC6w&gclsrc=ds

http://www.partsgeek.com/ck8j38m-che...p+Light+Switch

http://autoplicity.com/4242517-acdel...FQIHaQodqA0How

Or,
https://www.google.com/search?q=ACDe...utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

Super, Thank you!

 

hi guys,

thought id use this thread instead of a new one. i need to replace both switches on my 2005 C6, is it two of the same identical switch or are they different?

this one?
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-89060...iglink20400-20

 

Same switch for both and you listed the correct ones, but it not normal for both to go out at the same time.

Hence the switch works by just making a connection through the connector pins, and would unplug the connectors one at a time, and see if shorting out the pins on the connector resolves the problem first.

Hence on the shift to reverse light, disconnect the connector, start and turn the motor off and see if grounding the switch connector pins inside the connector stops the shift to reverse warning to allow the car to go into sleep mode. Next with the other connector disconnected for the reverse lights, put the car into run mode without the car started, then jump it connector pins to see if the reverse lights come on.

If jumping the connector pins does not yield the correct results, then its a wiring problem up line of the switch instead.


Or, you can just disconnector both connectors, put the car into reverse, and see if you have a continuity reading across the switches.

As for the switch, some times they are toast, while other times, just working the plunger in and out sharply will resolve the problem with the switch instead. Easy enough to bench test, and again, with the plunger pushed in, should have continuity through the switch pins.

If you do have continuity through the pins on the switches with the plungers pressed in , then this is where it time to find some comfort in a good drinking brandy, since the problem is not the switches, but the shifter linkage in the trans not pressing the switch detent pins instead (read going to get spendy/ labor intensive with a trans tear apart instead).

 

This forum has helped hundreds of corvette owners, so glad to be part of the family!

 

Bad switch could do it, but I would have dropped in diode on the 2 to 1 splice to prevent feed back between the two instead.

But a quick check to make sure that the problem is at the switch and not at the trans or wiring level, start off by unplugging the switch connector, and make sure that the reverse lights go out (no problems up line in the wiring). Next, pull the switch and with it connected to the connector, make sure that the lights are staying on from a bad switch itself. Hence not a problem with the trans rebuild, and the trans not coming off the switch plunger to allow it's plunger to come back out when the car is not in reverse to turn the lights off isntead.

 

Update:

I pulled the harness with the spliced wires off and the reverse lights turned off. Good new right?! We'll with the harness off the car wouldn't turn off ( being 05 it had to be in reverse ) it was in reverse... so I plugged harness back in and the car turned off as it should in reverse. Which lead me to believe the switch is good?!

I have NOT pulled the switch yet, that's next on my list, the 3" exhaust and DTE trans brace doesn't make for easy access...


UPDATE: Bad switch! New one from dealer installed and all is well!

 

What we know is that the switch plunger is in the in-postion, to tell the back up lights to come on, and to make the RCDLR happy to allow the car to turn off with the trans in reverse.

So you now have to pull the switch to do the tests again, to figure out if the plunger on the switch is stuck in the in position with the trans out of reverse, or if the trans rebuild is causing the problem, and not allowing the plunger on the switch to come back out when the trans it taking out of reverse isntead.

 

Pulling it out as as we speak! :-) will update again shortly!

 

Sence we're talking reverse switches, I have a question......

The 6mn tranny in my 05 has two switches. One controls the reverse lights but I don't have a clue as to what the second sensor controls.

The reason I have asked is that I just installed a 2007 Z06 tranny and differential and the tranny only has the reverse sensor/switch. The first time we hooked up one of the two plugs there was no back up lights. Swapped plugs and now the reverse lights work fine.

The second plug is now unused and I'm curious as to what the second plug controlled and if it's non-use can effect the car?

 

What we did was spliced the wires together.. faulty switch appears to be our issue, come Monday I'll replace it and report back

uodate: BAD SWITCH was issue!

 

On the 05, one switch is used to trigger the Back up lights, and the other for the shift to reverse to shut the engine off so it can go into sleep mode.

On the 2006 and later, the needed shift to reverse to shut the car off was deleted, and only the switch for the back up lights stayed in play; so one switch on the later cars.

 

Hi folks! First off, a HUGE thank you for this thread. I'm a "new" C6 owner (purchased a little over a year ago) and had I read this sort of stuff about 2005 might have held off and gotten an 06+.. That said my "silver fox" and I have gotten to a place of mutual respect, and I now have no intentions of ridding my garage of her. About 2 weeks ago this ridiculous shift to reverse crap started up, and those old feelings of regret started coming back.. But a quick trip to amazon and harbor freight have gotten me 2 ac delco switches for ~$46 a piece and a 3ton low profile jack and cross bar for ~$139. I remember spending that kind of scratch on light bulbs for my former import toy! (FD3S) unfortunately, the event also killed my battery to the point where mr tender doesn't charge and blinks "faulty" (it's cold here in the Adirondacks, we eat batteries for lunch when they aren't being drained to zero) so, plunked down another $200 for a yellowtop with positive terminal in the correct place! Now, I've layed her down for the 'long nap' since it snowed about 6 inches yesterday, but I'm thinking about lifting her butt up and swapping the switches before spring with the hope it alleviates the error.. But here's the kicker: if I played the shifter JUST RIGHT I could get the console to click repeatedly and go to no fob mode, where then pressing the start button would shut down correctly. I wouldn't expect a dead switch to do that? It's a giant pain in the a$$ to get it just right, and works a bit more frequently when transmission is COLD but I figured I'd share symptoms incase someone else sees that. Oh, and it started after a day of 'spirited driving' where I'm pretty sure the drive train was as warm as it had ever been. Well within spec, but let's just say it was a good drive. ;-) My reverse lights do NOT illuminate currently. Will update when I get around to doing the switch swap. Thanks again for being here! ~Phil

 

Its 85° here in Texas! I wish we had snow, none the less I would bet money on your issue being the switch.. after all the weird things we had, replaced switch and all was well once again!

Keep us posted on what you find out!

Brian

 

Well, the horizontal adapterizer for the low profile jack took the longest of all to arrive, but it's here, along with a nice tender cable, and today is the day.. Just need a lunch break from work! ;-)


2005 reverse light switch(es) replacement kit! (jack stands, wheel chocks and 22mm deep socket torque wrench not pictured)

 

just waiting on battery to charge from flat-lined again to confirm success!
......tick tock tick tock! (tender only does 1.25 amp , gonna be a while, but since it's now a yellow top, it won't be a dead bucket of electrons!) - Chicken sensor swap-out courtesy of my fiancee who has infinitely more patience than I do, and a much better sense of humor. (much be a Chilean thing)

(BTW, 22mm is _NOT_ correct, though on the OEM switch you can get it about 3/4 over the nut, it is actually a 7/8 deep socket!)