Have 1100 miles on my new 2011 Z06 checked all the fluids yesterday and noticed the clutch fluid totally black!( are the clutch and brake fluid the same reservoir?) I will change it but can anyone tell 1.is this normal?2. What does the dealer charge for this? Thanks.. Steve..

 

you been "on it" some eh? do a search, there is an excellent method for changing your own clutch fluid on this forum. I do it pretty regular. The dealer will charge you big bucks to drain it because they do it from the bottom and drop the exhaust. The trick is using a glass turkey baster and sucking the fluid out, filling with new, sucking it out, filling, pumping the clutch pedal between each fill till you get a clear fill. seach. its here on the forum.

dont let it go. if it goops... it can lead to loss of clutch action completely.

 

Unfortunately this is normal, the clutch fluid gets black quickly due to the poor design of the clutch that allows the clutch dust to enter the system. If you do a search of the "ranger" system of purging out the black fluid you can do it yourself way cheaper than you'll pay a dealer for it. As i recall, some have posted about $200 to bleed out the clutch fluid.

 

Thanks guys I'm gona print out rangers method and give it a try.is the reservoir for the brake and clutch the same?

 

Normal - if you don't take care of it regularly.

If you take it to the dealer it will probably cost a couple hundred bux$$$!!! They have to take off the exhaust to remove the tunnel plate so they can access the bleed valve!!!! Crazy design!!

However, as has been mentioned, just do the technique my fellow Ranger Ranger shows in this thread:

Ranger Clutch Fluid Swap Procedure


Get yourself some Prestone DOT 4 at Walmart for less than $3 for a 12 oz bottle, and a turkey baster or marinating syringe for a couple bucks, and you can do it yourself in about 10 minutes whenever your fluid starts getting a little dark.

Bob

 

No - the brake reservoir/master cylinder is the large one; the clutch fluid reservoir is the small round one!!

BTW, you can see the small/round clutch fluid reservoir in Ranger's video in the thread linked above.

Bob

 

I agree with all of the above. I do the ranger method twice a year and it works great. Costs nothing more than the fluid and takes no time. Well worth the effort.

 

I read rangers method and I'm a little confused about the bleading of air.when you suck the fluid out of the resevoir and you put the new fluid in does the system blead itself when you put the new fluid in by depressing the clutch? Hope my question is clear..

 

You're not bleeding any air with Rangers method. You are replacing old dirty fluid with clean. I bought a syringe at Walmart and replace the old fluid about 3 times a year with Prestone Dot 4.

Bob

 

WOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I too was exposed to 5 yr old muck this week and no understanding of that small cylinder. Ask my dealer (Monday Purchase!) what that cyl was but have done nothing with that in my 48 hours of ownership.

I was able to put my 06 C6 on a neighbors Eagle MTP-9A and change the entire Brake Fluid (DOT 4) and do many other wonderful items yesterday....... Looks like this muck will go today!

Oh, the brakes are a dream now! (I'll take pointers on Brake PADS - if anyone wants to point me to a favorite thread please.)

You guys made my day today. Thanks for the link too!

 

Just watched video! fwiw - I had no sound.

I don't know if it will completely sort with multiple fluid changes but will know soon. Car only has 22,000 miles on it.

Questions
1. The very last thing Ranger says is if issues still exist after routine maintenance - fix is to change Master cylinder??? That advice happened too quick for me to catch (also without sound). (I'd rather get to changing fluid / cleaning cyl than watching the video agian at this time.) echo - WOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!

2. ZAT just the clutch master cyl - or is clutch master cylinder a component of the braking master cyl?

 

The brake hydraulic system and the clutch hydraulic system are two completely independent/separate/different/distinct/unique/nothing to do with each other systems!!!

The fluid in one system is completely separated from the other. They never mix - they can't!!! Take a look at the picture below:





The brake fluid reservoir essentially IS the brake master cylinder - it's #29, and you can see that the plastic brake fluid reservoir sits on top of, and is part of, the brake master cylinder.

However, the clutch reservoir (#26) is completely removed from the clutch master cylinder (#1), and the clutch actuator (#25).

You can see the clutch system bleeder valve sticking out on the clutch actuator. To access it you have to remove the exhaust so you can then remove the tunnel closeout panel (commonly called the tunnel plate). If you ever do go into that area, that's a good time to install a remote clutch bleed valve so you don't have to disassemble the car to access it!!

The brake fluid reservoir sits on top of and is part of the master cylinder. If you suck out fluid to empty the brake reservoir you're probably going to get air into the brake system and you'll need a full brake system bleed.

However, you can suck all the fluid out of the clutch fluid reservoir because it's connected to the clutch master cylinder by that vertical tube that will still hold fluid so you won't get air into the master cylinder or the "pressure" part of the clutch system.

The Ranger method won't immediately clean all of the clutch fluid like a clutch system bleed procedure will, but the clutch system only holds a very small amount of fluid, and after putting fresh fluid into the reservoir, when you then pump the clutch pedal like Ranger's procedure calls for, it will move new fluid down the vertical tube, into the master cylinder, and out into the actuator. As the new fluid mixes with the old dirty fluid, it will bubble up to the reservoir - that's why you may need to do the procedure several times to get mostly all new fluid throughout the system. If you do the method regularly you'll keep nice clean fluid in the clutch system.

Hope that explains what's going on in the clutch system a little better!!

Bob

 

Phenomenal information Bob, thank you!

Good luck on your search with the clutch fluid Stevenyc777.

Brent
GM Customer Service

 

Changing the brake fluid (in the reservoir) is part of the equation. Besides replacing the fluid, you really have to bleed the brakes in proper sequence with the help of a friend or using something like the Motive Power Bleeder. Old fluid and possibly air are still trapped in the lines affecting operation of the brakes.

You might try a search (or check the C6 FAQ's page) for information on inspecting and changing the brake pads. It isn't the recommended method but with the OEM brakes I'd just pull the calipers by removing the caliper bracket bolts. I believe, technically the caliper bracket bolts are not supposed to be reused but FWIW I never had any issues reusing them (even with hard track use). When an experienced racing friend first helped me do it years ago I asked him about torque values....he smiled (whacking the wrench with a small sledge hammer) and said "They're not going anywhere." He was right...the bolts always held tight. Again, that's not the recommended method. BTW if you're changing brake pads, besides having 'typical' hand tools you'll need a 6" C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons (to seat the new pads and to get enough clearance to place the caliper back over the rotor). Changing brake pads isn't difficult but like with anything new, if you have an experienced friend that can help you the first time it helps. It's worth the effort to learn how to do simple maintenance things yourself....not just for the money you save but for the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Good luck!

PS I didn't check them but here's a couple old links about changing brake pads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...m_id=49&arch=1
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ferrerid=23323