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Hey all, I just purchased a low profile jack and lifted the rear end from the wrong spot. Basically took it up and back down within a minute. Then jacked from the correct spot, again up and down in about a minute. Was just testing the jack. Could this cause damage??? The rear end seems is sitting higher than normal after this. Does the car need time to settle after jacking?
I'm sure you will be fine. Normally if you jack it up from the wrong point you would hear something break. If you didn't hear or see anything break chances are you are fine.
I don't know where you lifted the car from but here's a link that'll show the preferred lifting points. When lifting the entire rear end (and not just a corner of the car) I strongly suggest you find an cross-beam adaptor to use with your floor jack (Northern Tool used to sell them...maybe someone will jump-in and say where you can buy it now). With the cross-beam adaptor attached to your floor jack you might need to drive onto boards to get enough under-car clearance but it's no big deal.
somewhere on this forum is a great article about jacking from the cross members; you need to cut 2 - 2 x 4's to fit across the cross members,then place your jack in the center of the 2 x 4 to jack
also, you must drive up on 2 x 8( or 10 's ) to raise the car so that you can get the jack and 2 x 4 under the front end
after jacking, then you can place jack stands under the 2 x 4's to protect yourself while changing oil, putting in the skip-shift unit , or whatever else you want to do
somewhere on this forum is a great article about jacking from the cross members; you need to cut 2 - 2 x 4's to fit across the cross members,then place your jack in the center of the 2 x 4 to jack
You don't need to do any of that stuff. That was an over **** person who did all that. Per GM, all you need is a jack with a saddle that is big enough in diameter to cover both vertical sides of the cross member beam. I usually don't worry about that and only use one of the sides. In the rear I will jack from the left rear beam near the end or the same spot on the right. In the front I jack from the left front side of the beam or right front side of the beam. Usually I jack the car from the location of the front shipping slot and put my jackstands at those crossbeam locations. Been doing that for 14 years on C5s and C6s with no issues.
You don't need to do any of that stuff. That was an over **** person who did all that. Per GM, all you need is a jack with a saddle that is big enough in diameter to cover both vertical sides of the cross member beam. I usually don't worry about that and only use one of the sides. In the rear I will jack from the left rear beam near the end or the same spot on the right. In the front I jack from the left front side of the beam or right front side of the beam. Usually I jack the car from the location of the front shipping slot and put my jackstands at those crossbeam locations. Been doing that for 14 years on C5s and C6s with no issues.
Bill
Can you give us a link to the GM approval for jacking with just a wide saddle on the crossmember?
My 'saddle' is not real wide. I bought some pucks which have the round tabs that fit into the opening at the lift points on the car. Never have had any problem. They work great. Before that I did use a 2X4....Had a different jack then as well.
Probably no damage. What you don't want to do is jack it up in the center with a jack that will gouge the aluminum crossbeam. A length of 2X4 is more that sufficient to spread the load on the beam.
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; Jun 11, 2011 at 08:58 PM.