So I put CLR on my C6's paint today...
08-17-2011, 07:48 PM
#41
Team Owner
Done with you. 
08-17-2011, 07:58 PM
#42
I come to this forum to learn how to better work on and care for my Vette. Once in awhile I post if the topic falls under my expertise. I have filled out my profile for all to see. The first thing I do when one of these street fights start is check out the profiles of the contestants. It is usually not hard to decide how creditable all the parties are. Later! Frank 
08-17-2011, 07:58 PM
#43
Le Mans Master
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Started out to be a good thread, then ended up in personal attacks. Too Bad! Try using the PM (private message) for bickering so the thread goes on for others to read. 
08-17-2011, 08:03 PM
#44
Safety Car
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I come to this forum to learn how to better work on and care for my Vette. Once in awhile I post if the topic falls under my expertise. I have filled out my profile for all to see. The first thing I do when one of these street fights start is check out the profiles of the contestants. It is usually not hard to decide how creditable all the parties are. Later! Frank
08-17-2011, 08:03 PM
#45
Le Mans Master
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Read this to understand what water spots are since you are such an expert. Ironically enough, I have been detailing cars and buffing cars for people in my younger years dealing with this crap and it can be frustrating stuff for sure.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ve-Water-Spots
But hey, feel free to enlighten me how the acids in CLR somehow avoid vette clear coat. Secret UV inhibitors and acid barrier? The thing about acids when you use them is you have to neutralize them well, washing off with water may not do the trick.
08-17-2011, 08:05 PM
#47
Racer
Here's a product that sounds like it may not be as caustic as CLR but worked excellent for removing stubborn spots on my boat. I know gelcoat is significantly different from our painted surface, but it is also advertised to work on painted surfaces as well.
Zing:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/prod...prod=625-10007
I'd still use it cautiously like CLR. Removed the hardest water spots from my gelcoat without damge.
Zing:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/prod...prod=625-10007
I'd still use it cautiously like CLR. Removed the hardest water spots from my gelcoat without damge.
08-17-2011, 08:06 PM
#48
Team Owner
i am reading this thread in total disbelief, seems like someone must have gone mental here. Clr is a mixture of several acids, lately phosphate free but still pretty corrosive. This is not any different than exposing your vette to a few years of acid rain at once. lol at this advice...
Last edited by Racer; 08-17-2011 at 08:20 PM. Reason: he just keeps on insulting people...........
08-17-2011, 08:09 PM
#50
Safety Car
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Hmmm, why don't you tell me instead how the urethane paints became acid resistant lately?
Read this to understand what water spots are since you are such an expert. Ironically enough, I have been detailing cars and buffing cars for people in my younger years dealing with this crap and it can be frustrating stuff for sure.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ve-Water-Spots
But hey, feel free to enlighten me how the acids in CLR somehow avoid vette clear coat. Secret UV inhibitors and acid barrier? The thing about acids when you use them is you have to neutralize them well, washing off with water may not do the trick.
Read this to understand what water spots are since you are such an expert. Ironically enough, I have been detailing cars and buffing cars for people in my younger years dealing with this crap and it can be frustrating stuff for sure.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ve-Water-Spots
But hey, feel free to enlighten me how the acids in CLR somehow avoid vette clear coat. Secret UV inhibitors and acid barrier? The thing about acids when you use them is you have to neutralize them well, washing off with water may not do the trick.
Good try there jr., but your not going to suck me in. I have no need nor desire to "try" and teach you anything about paint. Most members here know my qualifications when it comes to paint and paint application, so I have nothing to prove to you.The best advice I can give you is to just get out of this thread, cool off and never open it again.
08-17-2011, 08:15 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
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Good try there jr., but your not going to suck me in. I have no need nor desire to "try" and teach you anything about paint. Most members here know my qualifications when it comes to paint and paint application, so I have nothing to prove to you.The best advice I can give you is to just get out of this thread, cool off and never open it again.
08-17-2011, 08:27 PM
#52
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm not a chemist but I can say from personal experience the paint looks better than when I bought it. It is definitely not a good idea to leave it on for more than a minute but using one quick application followed by a cleaning it's not doing any damage.
Everyone should clean their Vette as to how they see fit, I am merely giving another option to those who were having the same issues I was with my paint. Results speak for themselves, I don't need an equation to tell me what to put on my car or what oil to put in it.
08-17-2011, 10:03 PM
#55
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In my detailing shop we use a solution very similar to CLR. It definitely contains a mild acid. I have a hole in what used to be a good pair of Levis from it.
As Wolfdog states, we cut it 50/50 with water, spray it on, use a celluose sponge to wipe it across the area affected, if the are really heavy. Then we thoroughly rinse the area, and then rinse it again.
I would say we have done at least 100+ cars this way with no ill effects at all.
One of the issues with water spots, is the etching. This is generally caused by the ambient temperature of the surface being very high, and when the water hits the surface it boils, etching the clearcoat. The etching, if the surface is very, very hot(Think of a black car that has been driven for some distance, sitting in 100 degree heat out in the sun and the sprinkler kicks on) can boil very quickly. The etching can go pretty deep leaving a permanent mark that even buffing won't take out.
Acids in the water can also do it, but that really depends on your water system and how pure it is. In a couple of areas my customers live in, the acid seems pretty high as we seem to get cars from that area with heavy spots, even on light colored cars.
As Wolfdog states, we cut it 50/50 with water, spray it on, use a celluose sponge to wipe it across the area affected, if the are really heavy. Then we thoroughly rinse the area, and then rinse it again.
I would say we have done at least 100+ cars this way with no ill effects at all.
One of the issues with water spots, is the etching. This is generally caused by the ambient temperature of the surface being very high, and when the water hits the surface it boils, etching the clearcoat. The etching, if the surface is very, very hot(Think of a black car that has been driven for some distance, sitting in 100 degree heat out in the sun and the sprinkler kicks on) can boil very quickly. The etching can go pretty deep leaving a permanent mark that even buffing won't take out.
Acids in the water can also do it, but that really depends on your water system and how pure it is. In a couple of areas my customers live in, the acid seems pretty high as we seem to get cars from that area with heavy spots, even on light colored cars.
08-17-2011, 10:32 PM
#57
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