Walt White Coupe

Not with the short 2 X 4. The main reason for using the wood block is so that the jack doesn't nick or gouge the crossbeam and it distributes the weight over a larger section of the beam than the jack alone. A gouge might not hurt you in the short run but could be an initiation point for a fatigue failure in the future.

George De

Does the Summit Racing cross beam adapter have a threaded hole in bottom of the center plug that fits inside the jack?
I also viewed the Greg Smith Equipment cross beam adapter on line and noted that it does have a threaded plug.
Want to use my Craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack, rather than purchase a more expensive jack as mentioned in this forum, but wanted to know if the Summit adapter center plug is threaded and its diameter, before I purchase the adapter.

Bowtie_Brigade

Here's the thread you want; as mentioned Summit, Amazon, etc. sell similar set-ups:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html

ThunderZ

I used these

mickey_7106

^those are nice. where did you get them from?

ThunderZ

Thanks! I made them. They work great.

JoesC5

I use the 2X6, long enough to span the GM recommended lifting points on the cross members, with 5.5" X 5.5" pads on each end. I also have a pin mounted in the center, so I can remove the lifting cup on my floor jack, and the pin will drop in the hole in the jack. That way, no way can the 2X6 slip off the jack.

I get about 1/16" flex in the 2X6. Even if the 2X6 flexed more then that, it will contact the center of the aluminum crossmember on the frame, preventing the 2X6 from breaking. With 1/4" thick plywood pads, that the maximum the 2X6 can flex. Use 1/8" plywood pads, and the 2X6 will only fgex a maximum of 1/8".

ThunderZ

There is more than one way to do it of course. I just think it is a small price to pay for peace of mind. The steel wont bend or break...ever

Gearhead Jim

Done!
Thanks, I wasn't sure how much flex the 2 x 6 could take before cracking.

SUB VETTE

I just use a 21" 4x4 for the front and a 25" 4x4 for the rear, both marked with the center line which I place my jack saddle under. No need to remove the existing jack saddle. Place the 4x4 on the saddle, line up to preferred jacking points and go.

mickey_7106

thats awesome! do you mind sharing how you made them? material thickness etc. where did you find the pads? my brother has a welding machine and I'm going to attempt making these

ThunderZ

Thanks for the compliment. There are a couple reasons why I dont want to tell you how and what to build these out of. The first is that I wouldnt be doing the fabrication and dont want even the faintest thought of liability if you build them and somehow you get crushed by a car. The second reason is that this is a business of mine and it is my design albeit a simple one. You can see a lot in the pictures, but I am not suggesting you use them to make a set.