Thrash, I think the "dim amber" issue is the result of the white LED's not switching off when the amber turn signal LED's are being flashed on, while operating in the running/headlights on mode.

Why the load resistor is affecting this is a puzzle.

There is no fuse on the circuit so the computer must provide some kind of protection if there is a short. If it sees a load (resistance) that's too high, it may reduce the voltage and the result could be what's causing the switchback malfunction.

The major filament of a 3157 lamp is rated at 28+ Watts (per Phillips/Osram) so at 13 Volts, the lamp is drawing around 2 Amps.

This would indicate that the load resistor should be around 6 Ohms to emulate the load presented by the 'normal' bulb.

Given that you have exposed yourself as a "Mad Scientist" with your excellent posts on your head lights, Big Three and stereo upgrades, maybe you should get a Rheostat and conduct an experiment to find the exact resistance needed for the Switchbacks to function properly.

As far as the high-temp issues, it's pretty pointless comparing what is happening with brake/turn signals and DRL's. Even sitting stopped with the brakes on for awhile isn't going to equal the heat you can generate by running the DRL's constantly for hours.

Mounting the resistors to a heat-sink and then installing them in an area with decent air circulation is probably your only workable approach. Some people have extended the wires and put them in the engine compartment.

I bought aluminum brackets from V-LEDS that provide additional surface area and are bent to provide an 1/8" air gap under the bracket/resistor. I then mounted these to a piece of 1/4" thick phenolic and will bolt these to the car behind the rear bumper when I finish my install.

Here's the Ohm's Law Pie Chart that spells out the electrical relationships.

 

Just get white bulbs and ditch the ambers. Screw the switchback game it's not necessary, amber isn't necessary for DRLs either (ala Audi/BMW)

 

Ahhh... Your truly astounding intelligence and remarkable insight has convinced me that everything I thought I knew about electricity must be wrong. Good-bye and good luck to everyone.

 

Maybe mine are defective, but a lot of other posts complained of the pale-amber flashing as well. Thus far I have NOT seen ANYONE stating that their signal flashes are alternating solid amber & white (nor did you)? And as I said, with no resistor they flash solid but are hyper ...

 

Correct, a lot of people do not like the amber DRL's but in many / most states amber must be used for turn signals. The switchbacks are amber with no other lights on and white when fogs or low beams are on. When lows or fogs are on and and the turn signal is activated they either switch between amber and white or amber and off depending on how they were made. Hence switchback.

 

 

Starting to wonder if they are in backwards. This can happen with wedge type LED's that are designed to mimic a dual filament bulb.

 

Ok I'll chime in.

I have LED switchbacks with those SAME gold resistors. And they work perfectly.

LIGHTS OFF:

DRL's are solid amber.

Turn signals are amber-off-amber-off-amber-off

LIGHTS ON:

DRL's are solid white.

Turn signal White-amber-off-amber-off-amber-off-amber-off....

I think you soldered your resistor to the wrong wire, hence why you are getting the cross voltage to the other LED bank when your turn signals are on. If I remember correctly you need to solder the resistor to the middle wire to the ground wire. Recheck the instructions and your set up.

That resistor gets HELLA hot. They will burn your fingers. Yes, filament light bulbs will burn your finger too. I ended up soldering longer wires to the resistor, drilling holes in my frame in the engine compartment and then mounting the resistors there.

 

It would be great if someone could post some pic's of how they mounted the resistors to dissipate the heat. several have described it, but for me, a picture is worth a thousand words. i want to make this modification, and just want to make sure i don't do something stupid in the process. Thanks.

 

"Lights-Off?" meaning the DRL's as well -or not? When my amber DRL's are on the flash is a weak amber ... so you are saying yours are solid amber, and flashing to black/off ... since they are already amber??? The signals work right when you force the DRL's to be off (or in hyper mode), but that's a pain to do. I only soldered the resistor wire back on to the resistor, the scotch-locks are on the wires as prescribed, and the link below is a great way to hook it all up. So again, in daylight, your DRL is amber and flashes amber to black/off, then solid amber again after signaling?


Here is a great install that I just ran across from Shocker Racing <CLICK HERE>, wish I'd seen this sooner but will re-do like this ...

 

Thanks for posting the link, i am still clueless. the first pic with all the materials was great, from there, i still have no idea how to mount them.

 

RAYSK- Not sure what you aren't seeing but........

The last two pics before the vids clearly show the load resistors mounted to the L & R side walls on the inside of the engine compartment with a rectangular piece of insulation sandwiched between the resistor and the plastic body panel.

Putting the resistors there exposes them to more air flow and should help them stay a bit cooler.

This excellent write up by c6speedjon was posted on our Forum as well.

 

Okay, I removed the resistors then spliced-in a bulb & holder, and extended them into the engine bay (so as to put a full load on the circuit AND some additional bay lighting when needed), and it still flashes pale-amber. I used bullet connectors so think I'm going to just ditch these and "Go-Hyper."

Still, it seems to be a defective and short-sighted product & mod, since the signal flashers do not operate properly unless used with no resistors or load. Very underwhelming

 

After reading all this, I'm glad I didn't jump in and buy these. Seems like more time and trouble than they're worth considering all the issues. At least my Eagle Eye tail lights look great.

 

I bought a pair of the Switchbacks too but could never get them to stay properly seated in the connectors and I just gave up

(got a pair of new and unused ones if anyone is interested. PM me)

 

Yes they were installed as directed, and with or without resistors they flash pale-amber. AGAIN ... when no resistor or load is on the circuit, they flash correctly - but are hyper.

So your signal-lights flash solid amber to white at normal speed, with the DRL's on? So far not one person has made this statement, and is the whole reason this post was started?????

 

LEt me shed something as crazy. I tried these about a year ago. My right side would flash properly meaning they'd flash from solid White to amber and at normal speed with no nothing soldered in. My left side wouldn't even come on. I switched the bulbs back and forth and either bulb worked in the right side but not the left. Crazy.

JW took the bulbs back and determined that one bulb was bad although it would work on one side and not the other. I had given this mod a certain amount of time and once that was up I moved on to other things and haven't been interested in using these again. Nothing wrong or saying bad about the vendors selling these although I suspect they have sold many of these and only had a few problems out of the bunch.

I am currently workinhg on a white/Yellow Halo for the DRL/signal position. These will work before they leave the shop. I don't know when though...

 

I just did a search of our messages and your problem was the amber DRL portion wouldn't work on both sides. You could only get the amber to come on with the turn signals or with the lights on. That's usually caused by an ebrake that is in use but you said that wasn't the case.

I test them all when they get back and they work fine. Some cars just don't like them. That's the only way I can explain it. It's rare though.

 

I've been waiting to do this mod for some time now. All I'm waiting for is the resolution to the hyperflash issue. Several in my Corvette club have smelled a burning oder and traced it to them. I'll just wait until this problem is solved....rather than burnup my car.

 

Still no testimonial or confirmation that any work correctly or are not hyper while the signal is flashing ...