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Basic replacing brake question, calipers and pads...
Sorry, I search, but didn't find the many threads that must be out there.
My 2007 Z51 has 35k, and needs brakes, pads and calipers on all 4. In a perfect world, I would go to the Chevy dealer, and just order the OEM stuff, but am told that I can THE SAME THING much cheaper, by the friend that is going to put them on.
Car is just a regular driver, no track, etc. so don't need ceramics or anything else, just pads and rotors at least as good as the originals!
Best bang for the buck for street use are Centric Premium rotors and Posi Quiet Ceramic pads. You can get pricing from Tirerack. Have used these with great street results and am happy with them. Centric Premium rotors are good quality for the price and come with electro painted hats and vanes.
Are you sure you need new rotors? If the rotors are not below their minimum thickness you should be able to use your old rotors. On my street vehicles I typically replace the rotors with the second pad change.
If the rotors are not scored or damaged you can replace the pads with the same ones that were on the car without refinishing the rotors since they already have the correct pad transfer layer on them. If are reusing the rotors but want to remove them then put index marks on the rotors and hubs so you can reinstall them in the same orientation they were on the car.
If you had brake thumping before you disassembled the brakes you can rotate the rotors from the index positions to see if that reduces overall lateral run out and reduces the thumping. That is not easily accomplished without the proper measurement tools since you need to know which wheel if any has excessive run out. I haven't encountered run out issues very often over the last 40+ years of working on brakes so I don't worry about it.
AT 35K miles of easy driving, you probably don't need new rotors. I'd doubt that the rear pads need replaced either. You might not even need front pads yet.
Have someone real knowledgeable (not saying your friend isn't), who has no financial gain involved, inspect the brakes closely. Also take a look at the brake fluid. If it's never been changed since new, it's time for a flush even if you need nothing else.
My last set of front pads came from O'Reilly's for under $40 and I still have no problem making the first turn-off after a 125 mph pass at the strip.
Are you having brake problems? Why would you think the calipers need replacing? There are components in the calipers that might need replacing but the calipers themselves are likely just fine. Maybe you need only have the rotors turned or replaced and replace the brake pads. It shouldn't be that big of a deal. If you want OEM parts I suggest you call Gene at gmpartshouse.com. For aftermarket parts there are many brands and sources. Good luck.
My misprint on the calipers, but do need rotors and pads all around, friend inspected closely, and said Chevy would be an expensive way to go, which I proved when I got a total price of,...ready??? $1150 with tax for the just pads and rotors all around!!!
Oh, and drive it easy? Hard to do on the California canyon roads even on a 'relaxed' day!
Whewf, I'll take the suggestions makes and call the guys listed in the posts, thanks a bunch.
My misprint on the calipers, but do need rotors and pads all around, friend inspected closely, and said Chevy would be an expensive way to go, which I proved when I got a total price of,...ready??? $1150 with tax for the just pads and rotors all around!!!
Oh, and drive it easy? Hard to do on the California canyon roads even on a 'relaxed' day!
Whewf, I'll take the suggestions makes and call the guys listed in the posts, thanks a bunch.
Charles
You can get all 4 of the GM OEM Z51 rotors and ACDelco ceramic pads from PartsTaxi (forum vendor running special) for $497.95 including shipping.
Best bang for the buck for street use are Centric Premium rotors and Posi Quiet Ceramic pads. You can get pricing from Tirerack. Have used these with great street results and am happy with them. Centric Premium rotors are good quality for the price and come with electro painted hats and vanes.
Agreed, I just ordered pads and their slotted rotors for my car. I went with their 309. series pads. Great product.
I guess I don't understand why you would need new rotors at 35k. You can have the old ones turned if they need it, for $5 each unless you just want to replace them. If this is the first brake job since new, there is no way the old ones are worn out, especially if you just drive it normal and not racing it. Your money. Just my .02
Bill Dearborn mentioned replacing rotors every other pad change. I can see where that might work out, but my conservative thinking is that if the rotors wore down by x amount during the first set of pads, they will be worn down by 2x amount by the time the second set of pads need replacement. If new thickness minus 2x wear is still above replacement thickness, then I'm happy. But I don't want to have pads with 50% life remaining and rotors that are below replacement thickness.
When the time comes, I'll get out the micrometer to see how the measurements and math work out.
This summer I'm going to switch to ceramics and plan to use
Akebono ACT731 and ACT732 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic pads.
I've seen good write-ups on them.
Bill Dearborn mentioned replacing rotors every other pad change. I can see where that might work out, but my conservative thinking is that if the rotors wore down by x amount during the first set of pads, they will be worn down by 2x amount by the time the second set of pads need replacement. If new thickness minus 2x wear is still above replacement thickness, then I'm happy. But I don't want to have pads with 50% life remaining and rotors that are below replacement thickness.
When the time comes, I'll get out the micrometer to see how the measurements and math work out.
I guess that depends on where you live. With all my cars I have to put up with an annual safety inspection that means I pull the wheels off and check the brakes and other systems before I take the car in for the inspection which gives me plenty of opportunity to rotor thickness. With all the track duty on the Vette I am looking at the rotors 20 or so times per season and changing them and the pads as required. Usually the rotors crack before they get too thin.