Shifter problem again!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Shifter problem again!
Yeah again the shifter needs to be re-tightened....
I posted an original thread here!
I never actually repaired the threads but used a cold weld on it. It seemed to work for about a year and a half already. But I cant keep having the shifter come lose while driving. I definitely messed it up when I first put the shifter in. I must have over-tightened them a little too much and stripped the threads on the aluminum shifter box. I ordered a time-sert thread repair kit and hopefully it will fix it permanantly. Does anyone know the torque specs on those bolts that hold the shifter to the box?
I am starting to think I am the only idiot who brought this problem onto myself. I should have used a torque wrench when I changed the shifter the first time, and I might not have had this problem.
Any thoughts?
I posted an original thread here!
I never actually repaired the threads but used a cold weld on it. It seemed to work for about a year and a half already. But I cant keep having the shifter come lose while driving. I definitely messed it up when I first put the shifter in. I must have over-tightened them a little too much and stripped the threads on the aluminum shifter box. I ordered a time-sert thread repair kit and hopefully it will fix it permanantly. Does anyone know the torque specs on those bolts that hold the shifter to the box?
I am starting to think I am the only idiot who brought this problem onto myself. I should have used a torque wrench when I changed the shifter the first time, and I might not have had this problem.
Any thoughts?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Tolland CT
I don't know of a torque spec but I just installed an after market (MGW) shifter and it uses socket head cap screws to mount the shifter onto the box. They supply a special tool that limits the amount of force you can put on the screws so you don't inadvertently have the problem you encountered. They recommend tightening "Wrist tight", for hardware supplied with the screws you have a split lock washer under the screw head followed by a flat washer so you don't gouge the aluminum on the shifter. You should use locktite on the threads, this along with the lock washer will be the locking mechanism for the screws. I doubt you would have any torque requirement because of the rubber gasket material under the shifter that is used to reduce vibration, you don't want to flatten out the material to the point where you are basically metal to metal. Sorry for your troubles.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
I think maybe that was my problem from the first time... I used the gasket and basically had it metal to metal. Then from over-tightening it slightly I may have damaged a few threads, and that is all it takes. When I re-thread them and fix it I will make it wrist tight this time and not flatten the shifter to the box. Thanks for the reply, suggestions and comments!
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Tolland CT
I think maybe that was my problem from the first time... I used the gasket and basically had it metal to metal. Then from over-tightening it slightly I may have damaged a few threads, and that is all it takes. When I re-thread them and fix it I will make it wrist tight this time and not flatten the shifter to the box. Thanks for the reply, suggestions and comments!
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
SUBVETTE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 93
From: San Diego CA
I think maybe that was my problem from the first time... I used the gasket and basically had it metal to metal. Then from over-tightening it slightly I may have damaged a few threads, and that is all it takes. When I re-thread them and fix it I will make it wrist tight this time and not flatten the shifter to the box. Thanks for the reply, suggestions and comments!
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
P.S. The MGW is a excellent shifter isnt it?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
I thought about that the last time this happened and that lower housing is about $250. And it will still have the same aluminum threads which can be weakened if I am not careful while tightening. The time-serts are carbon steel and are alot stronger. Especially under hard shifting (I which I do during my fast shifting moments).
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Its not the shifter that is the problem, I think when I installed it I sort of goofed it up. I think I may have over tightened the screws into the aluminum box and damaged a few threads. Not only that I also tightened it down to where the shifter and box were practically metal to metal. I will be a bit more generous on the gasket sealer and not smash the shifter onto the lower box when I tighten it this time.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,526
Likes: 16
From: Mechanicsburg Pennsylvania
You know, it's just plain refreshing to see a thread where the individual is owning up to screwing something up, as in operator error.
Kudos to pTr73 for a refreshing breath of frank honesty and humility !!
Kudos to pTr73 for a refreshing breath of frank honesty and humility !!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 406
Likes: 68
From: San Clemente
Have you tried Loctite, thread locker, red 271? just might do the trick,hand tight and let sit up for 24hours to cure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,526
Likes: 16
From: Mechanicsburg Pennsylvania
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 2
From: Boise Idaho
Nuts??
Aluminum threads are not very tolerant of over torque. About 30 years ago, I did the same exact thing and pulled the threads out of a shifter mount on the tail housing on an early Borg Warner T5. With some ingenuity, I was able to get 1/4 inch longer bolts and use a combination of one T-nut and 3 regular standard nuts on the bottom side of the shifter housing. I was fairly rough on that car while I had it...that particular fix never gave any further trouble.
I can’t remember for sure, but I think I went down a size (like from 1/4-20 bolt to a #12 screw) to get smaller nuts that fit up against the casting. The extra strength of the nut, instead of just the aluminum threads, more than made up for the smaller hardware. I don't recall an indexing pin in the casting, so the screws did all the work.
Don't know if you can get under the vette shifter box on the right side to get nuts on, but I bet you can do it on the left side.
I can’t remember for sure, but I think I went down a size (like from 1/4-20 bolt to a #12 screw) to get smaller nuts that fit up against the casting. The extra strength of the nut, instead of just the aluminum threads, more than made up for the smaller hardware. I don't recall an indexing pin in the casting, so the screws did all the work.
Don't know if you can get under the vette shifter box on the right side to get nuts on, but I bet you can do it on the left side.
Last edited by Black LS2; Mar 20, 2012 at 05:51 AM. Reason: addition
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
I just came back from chevy actually and I decided to order a new lower shift box. The reason was that the rubber bushings on my current box are very worn and deteriorated and I should replace those too. As for the time-sert kit I ordered, I will hold onto it incase I damage the threads on my new box. The dealer/parts dept told me the new box should be there tomorrow! My car is down now as its parked in my driveway with the console off and no shifter in it
Plus the time-sert kit wasnt geting here until the 26th of march! I really didnt want to wait that long especially since the rest of this week is going to be in the upper 70's.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Aluminum threads are not very tolerant of over torque. About 30 years ago, I did the same exact thing and pulled the threads out of a shifter mount on the tail housing on an early Borg Warner T5. With some ingenuity, I was able to get 1/4 inch longer bolts and use a combination of one T-nut and 3 regular standard nuts on the bottom side of the shifter housing. I was fairly rough on that car while I had it...that particular fix never gave any further trouble.
I can’t remember for sure, but I think I went down a size (like from 1/4-20 bolt to a #12 screw) to get smaller nuts that fit up against the casting. The extra strength of the nut, instead of just the aluminum threads, more than made up for the smaller hardware. I don't recall an indexing pin in the casting, so the screws did all the work.
Don't know if you can get under the vette shifter box on the right side to get nuts on, but I bet you can do it on the left side.
I can’t remember for sure, but I think I went down a size (like from 1/4-20 bolt to a #12 screw) to get smaller nuts that fit up against the casting. The extra strength of the nut, instead of just the aluminum threads, more than made up for the smaller hardware. I don't recall an indexing pin in the casting, so the screws did all the work.
Don't know if you can get under the vette shifter box on the right side to get nuts on, but I bet you can do it on the left side.
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 2
From: Boise Idaho
Sounds like a new box was the way to go. Thought I would share my tale with you on the off chance you had not considered a drill bit.
You will get it back together and be catching the sweet grab into second in no time...new bushings will make it that much nicer!
I hope you take pics of the box swap...would be interesting to see.
You will get it back together and be catching the sweet grab into second in no time...new bushings will make it that much nicer!
I hope you take pics of the box swap...would be interesting to see.
CF Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,313
Likes: 25
From: Tucson Arizona
I believe....
The shift control mounting bolts should be tightened to 22 lb ft
The transmission shift rod clamp bolt should be tightened to 22 lb ft
The shift control closeout boot retaining nuts are tightened to 106 lb in
The shift control mounting bolts should be tightened to 22 lb ft
The transmission shift rod clamp bolt should be tightened to 22 lb ft
The shift control closeout boot retaining nuts are tightened to 106 lb in
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Sounds like a new box was the way to go. Thought I would share my tale with you on the off chance you had not considered a drill bit.
You will get it back together and be catching the sweet grab into second in no time...new bushings will make it that much nicer!
I hope you take pics of the box swap...would be interesting to see.
You will get it back together and be catching the sweet grab into second in no time...new bushings will make it that much nicer!
I hope you take pics of the box swap...would be interesting to see.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
From: The Lost Borough, NYC
Normal driving I ease it into the next gear (using probalby only 2 fingers). But during my little episodes of tantrum shifting (due to hard acceleration) yes I do tend to slam it down/up to the next gear (helps with quicker shifts). I dont do it all the time but even the few times I do slam it that may be all it takes to damage the threads. I will be alot easier on this thing from now on.