I have headers on my vette & it gets super hot under the hood.Question,Do you know of any one that makes a heat shield for headers. ??

 

Coating the headers helps but you have to take them off... Do not know of any shields.

 

I know it's a real pain but the very best thing all around for everything in the engine compartment is to take the headers off and have them coated.

That's what "I" would do and as an added bonus less heat in the engine compartment along with keeping a lot more heat inside the exhaust headers which keep the exhaust velocity up may result in more performance/hp. If you want to keep the interior console area cooler than have the crossover done as well, hell if you are going to take the headers off and have them coated you might as well do the crossover too.

 

Thanks,I know a pain in the a$$.I now wish that i would have ordered them already coated.

 

is made of colon ( : ) and capital d ( D )

so i assume you typed those and it shows a big green grin
remove/change : or put some spaces after it

 

coolmax makes a heat shield that goes under the car that attaches to the exhaust tunnel plate. also you can buy an after market tunnel plate that is thicker, coated, and has insulation form elite engineering.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...s-on-sale.html

 

You can also use DEI heat-wraps. I did not modify my Corvettes, but when I did heavily modify my STi, I got it coated first, then wrapped it tight with DEI heat-wraps, and finally spray-painted the wraps once done with the high temp weather-insulating paint also provided by DEI for weather insulation of wraps. It helped quite substantially. One problem, though, it that you keep baking those heat wraps when you drive the car, and the smell sneaks into the car, which smells like some kind of bread

 

[QUOTE=ChevyDave;1581464818] is made of colon ( : ) and capital d ( D )

so i assume you typed those and it shows a big green grin
remove/change : or put some spaces after it[/QUOTE

 

Might try some of that.Thanks.

 

to lower the under hood temps you either have to ceramic coat the headers or use a fiberglass wrap like the dei stuff mentioned.

for lower temps in the passenger compartment we sell the ELITE ENGINEERING tunnel plates. they are offered as just ceramic coated or coated with the thermal insulation.

these will greatly lower the temps inside the car. im sure you have allready noticed how hot the center console and cup holder area gets.

here is a link to our sale theard on those.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...s-on-sale.html

 

I don't dispute cooler is better but is there any real problem resulting from the under-hood heat? Are you melting wiring or is cabin heat unbearable? If cabin heat is bothering you (as mentioned) Elite Engineering offers beefier tunnel plates which can be mated with an insulating 'blanket.' You get better structural rigidity and less heat in the cabin. For under the hood they do make insultating wrap and for some things you might consider using 'cool socks.'

IMO it's best to coat the headers prior to installing them. I think most guys just don't want to spend the extra money and it's certainly not essential to do but IMO coating helps with more than just the appearance of the headers.

This is from Jet Hott: "The coating promotes denser, more potent fuel/air charges by insulating the engine bay from exhaust heat. Also, it accelerates the pulsed-vacuum effect on “tuned” headers, resulting in more effective scavenging of cylinders. The increased velocity of exhaust gases produced by higher exit inertia not only clears each cylinder more quickly; it also draws in the next fuel/air charge more efficiently."

Depending on the problem caused by the header heat there are things that can help. Good luck!

 

exactly i have full access to the shop and the tools to remove my headers and have them coated, but they are on and thats where they are staying. I have the cool socks to protect the msd wires. If i do swtich to 1 7/8 headers i will have them coated first but id not going to remove them to coat them and reinstall. The engine bay heat with headers isnt really any different them if you have stock manifold with the heat sheilds

now the interior heat is a different story. The heat in the center console area is rediculos. I installed a elite insulatedf tunnel plate. It dropped the heat in the cup holder and console area 20 degrees or more. They say the plate are designed for chassis stiffness but i installed mine solelly for the heat insulation and its one of the best mods i have done to the car.

 

Unless you don't care about the wrapped exhaust, heat control is that important or you just don't know better. Do not even consider that method, race teams do it because they have sponsors and they replaced their equipment as needed in the quest for max out performance!

Metals under wrap will die! Even with high temperature inconel or titanium alloys! Metal under wrap will become extremely brittle and catastrophically weaken under the extreme high heat with prolong repeated exposure. Ever see video of exhaust headers during dyno runs - cherry red - but it is exposed to ambient and allow to go through the normal cooling process!

But, then again, if one doesn't know better, ignorance is bliss!

 

This is true, when you wrap the headers, you keep most of the heat inside, increasing the max temps the header need to handle. A high quality coating, however, combined with good quality SS would keep the header intact. As far as I remember, NA cars regularly see up to 1200 degrees F, while forced induction cars can see as high as 1800 degrees F. Jet-hot, for instance, has different kinds of coatings to handle both cases.

In short, use good quality SS header, get it coated (by either 1400F shiny ones or 2000 degrees F matte coatings like what jet-hot offers if your car has forced induction), get it wrapped, and now you have the best solution, but your engine bay will smell like a bakery By the way, that cooling process you mention is what usually cracks the headers, not the heating process; just so you know.

Please cut with that "ignorance is bliss" whatever crap; there's nothing to be outraged.

 

The under hood heat speeds up the decay of plastics and rubber.

Besides coating or header wrap...I'd suggest "Kool Sox" for the spark plug wires and removing both plastic engine covers.

You could also so as far as poping the hood once you park.

 

I asked LG about wrapping my headers and they said definately "no". I believe they will just get too hot and will have durability problems. Most headers are made from stainless steel, and while 3xx series stainless "can take" 1200 degF (if that is the temp), it will have reduced fatigue properties at high temps and would be more prone to cracking than a header running a few hundred degrees cooler. Inconel headers would be great, but due to cost I believe, I have never seen them. Probably for racing only. Titanium previously mentioned would be no good for headers. Can not handle exhaust temp reliably, and not ductile enough to make tight bends.

 

Where can i but the KOOL SOX's ?? Thanks

 

I removed the engine covers last week & it does help.Also, as another member mention on another thread, is to pop the hood while driving in town,I've have been doing that on short trips in my area & my coolant temp goes down even in 100 degrees + heat we have down here.

 

****Since I don't know everything, "ignorance is bliss", in my case, at least is indeed a blessing!

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Now, lets get on with physical attributes of materials:

1. 300 series cres - most practical, better than mild steel, low strength material, poor high heat resistance and contrary to believe, it can corrode.

2. High heat coatings - Mfg. claim is without wrap! All bets are off when the rated thrush hold is exceeded with insulating materials, then it will suffer catastrophic damage.

3. High temp wrap - provide insulation, absorbs/retains moisture/oil/grease(even with application with coating barrier) and can be flammable.

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If A is good, B is also good, then mixing A & B together, one would think it would be the best of both world! Not true here!

Not my business to educate you really

To simplify and make the long story short, the insulating attribute of heat warp is its worst enemy if longevity is a concern. Trapped heat will be elevated to a point where 300 series cres will become brittle and high heat coatings will fail!



Right on!

In addition:

1. There is no mfg. out there (header & high temp coating included) will honor their product if wrapped for a good reason.

2. Inconel is used where cost is not an factor, race teams use thin walled inconel alloy along with wraps for their edge, but keep in mind, their header's life spans could be a single race. Also extensively used in Nuclear reactor plant components due to its high heat/corrosion resistance attributes.

3. Titanium have been used in race applications due to weight saving advantage. Lots of precautions with titanium, such as welding in an inert gas purge environment, the prep needs to be absolutely clean and the welder needs to have in-depth training. I have worked with titanium in many of my custom projects and it can be ductile if heat is applied (setting flame to be around 1200 deg., such as used for silver soldering), it will bend to any configuration in my experience, also the side effect of a rainbow spectrum colored finish - very unique!

On a side note, I was fortunate to have an hand built titanium headers, built by Mr. Muzzy, back in 1990 for my modified FZR1000, today is still pretty as the first day I installed them!

 

sending PM for Koolsox. i would just add here but i dont know if other PAID vendors sell it, if they do then putting link here for a non paid vendor is against the rules.