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2013 cags?

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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:09 AM
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Default 2013 cags?

new to the C6....

I'm looking for a CAGS solution that turns off the light
and disables the 1-4 forced selection.



my understanding is that the pigtail solution doesn't work for 2013?

does any of the fuse solutions solve the light illumination?
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 09:43 AM
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I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.

For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by davek
new to the C6....

I'm looking for a CAGS solution that turns off the light
and disables the 1-4 forced selection.



my understanding is that the pigtail solution doesn't work for 2013?

does any of the fuse solutions solve the light illumination?
Just give it more throttle and you wont have any problems. After getting use to the car, I almost never notice the cags kicking in.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Just give it more throttle and you wont have any problems. After getting use to the car, I almost never notice the cags kicking in.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:12 AM
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The only way to remove the 1X4 shift light is through a tune and you don't want to jeopardize your warranty by using an aftermarket tune. The two most popular methods of disabling the CAGS is the 2.2K resistor to replace the solenoid in the circuit or the blown 'smart' fuse. Both work but you still have the dash light(which is no big deal, to me)
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Erickson
I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.

For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Erickson
I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.

For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
If you use the blown 'smart' fuse, it is not necessary to use the 2.2K ohm resistor to replace the solenoid in the circuit. You use one or the other, not both. The resistor fix is the one that requires lifting the rear of the car to access the solenoid electrical connection at the transmission. The 'blown' fuse replaces the standard fuse in the fuse box, under the hood. And it is fuse #10. It's the marking of the fuse locations in the fuse box that is confusing, but it is fuse #10.

Last edited by JoesC5; Aug 10, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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Yup - the resistor fuse is the easiest method by far.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Just give it more throttle and you wont have any problems. After getting use to the car, I almost never notice the cags kicking in.
WOW really?
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davek
WOW really?
Yes really. I bought a cags eliminator and it's sitting in the console. By the time I had time to install it, I learned I don't need it.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:59 PM
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JoesC5,

Could you please expand on the "smart" blown fuse method. Just insert a blown fuse on the #10 slot, or is there more to it?

Thanks,
John

BTW, I plan to stay 91ZR1, but I should be 13' 427. Love my new Vert!

Last edited by 91ZR1; Aug 10, 2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Added comment
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Just give it more throttle and you wont have any problems. After getting use to the car, I almost never notice the cags kicking in.
Originally Posted by davek
WOW really?
Yes, really.

One-to-Four Shift Light
(Manual Transmission)

This light will come on when:
• The engine coolant temperature is higher than
169°F (76°C),
• the vehicle is going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and
the vehicle 21 percent throttle or less.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JimTN
Yes, really.
Yes, I know all that (I do read the manual), however it's still a nuisance when it shows up, like on a parking lot or other low speed scenarios.
I would rather do away with it.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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I would like to know more about the "blown" fuse method as well. I am taking delivery of my '13 Grand Sport this weekend. I have a brand new CAGS eliminator waiting to install as that is what I used on my '07 coupe but if it doesn't work on the '13 then I will need to do the "blown" fuse method. CAGS is annoying as all hell to me.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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The blown fuse method:

I went the cheap way - used one of the spares in the engine compartment. Took a dremel tool and drilled out the center part where the loop is. Took a small 2.2K surface mount resister and soldered it across the two leads of the fuse inside the drilled out cavity.

The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse.

Install mod'ed fuse in the place for the manual transmission. Your done, no more 1-4 shifting.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Erickson
The blown fuse method:

I went the cheap way - used one of the spares in the engine compartment. Took a dremel tool and drilled out the center part where the loop is. Took a small 2.2K surface mount resister and soldered it across the two leads of the fuse inside the drilled out cavity.

The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse.

Install mod'ed fuse in the place for the manual transmission. Your done, no more 1-4 shifting.
Thanks.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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Default Skip Shift

"The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse."
OK! ...I'm an electrical idiot. Where do I get this, and what is the "batter"
Thanks!

John
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 91ZR1
"The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse."
OK! ...I'm an electrical idiot. Where do I get this, and what is the "batter"
Thanks!

John
Get the smart fuse at most any auto parts stores. The "batter" is shorthand for battery. Just make sure you get a SMART fuse. The packaging will indicate that the fuse will glow (that's the led in the fuse) when it is blown. Of course it has to be in the fuse box and powered for it to glow. Good luck.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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What's CAGS? Can't afford gas syndrome? JK I know what it stands for.

Push that gas peddle a little more and don't worry about it. Mine has the cags eliminator but even if it didn't I'd never need it
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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dive it like you stole it.
two months with my GS and only had 1-4 enable once.
I had it tuned out on my 2006.
So far with the GS it is so infrequent, I am not messing with it.
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