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I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.
For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
The only way to remove the 1X4 shift light is through a tune and you don't want to jeopardize your warranty by using an aftermarket tune. The two most popular methods of disabling the CAGS is the 2.2K resistor to replace the solenoid in the circuit or the blown 'smart' fuse. Both work but you still have the dash light(which is no big deal, to me)
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Originally Posted by Ken Erickson
I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.
For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
I tried the eliminator plug for my '13 first as that worked for my '99 & '07 w/o problems. When the eliminator plug failed with two different versions I tried the blown fuse with 2.2K resistor. Works. Done. Next mod.
For what it's worth, the resistor fix is much easier - no lifting the backend and crawling underneath, just make sure you are pulling the correct fuse as I was told it was fuse #10 on my 427 vert - wrong. Look up the fuse for the transmission on the fuse cover.
If you use the blown 'smart' fuse, it is not necessary to use the 2.2K ohm resistor to replace the solenoid in the circuit. You use one or the other, not both. The resistor fix is the one that requires lifting the rear of the car to access the solenoid electrical connection at the transmission. The 'blown' fuse replaces the standard fuse in the fuse box, under the hood. And it is fuse #10. It's the marking of the fuse locations in the fuse box that is confusing, but it is fuse #10.
Just give it more throttle and you wont have any problems. After getting use to the car, I almost never notice the cags kicking in.
Originally Posted by davek
WOW really?
Yes, really.
One-to-Four Shift Light
(Manual Transmission)
This light will come on when:
• The engine coolant temperature is higher than
169°F (76°C),
• the vehicle is going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and
• the vehicle 21 percent throttle or less.
Yes, I know all that (I do read the manual), however it's still a nuisance when it shows up, like on a parking lot or other low speed scenarios.
I would rather do away with it.
I would like to know more about the "blown" fuse method as well. I am taking delivery of my '13 Grand Sport this weekend. I have a brand new CAGS eliminator waiting to install as that is what I used on my '07 coupe but if it doesn't work on the '13 then I will need to do the "blown" fuse method. CAGS is annoying as all hell to me.
I went the cheap way - used one of the spares in the engine compartment. Took a dremel tool and drilled out the center part where the loop is. Took a small 2.2K surface mount resister and soldered it across the two leads of the fuse inside the drilled out cavity.
The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse.
Install mod'ed fuse in the place for the manual transmission. Your done, no more 1-4 shifting.
I went the cheap way - used one of the spares in the engine compartment. Took a dremel tool and drilled out the center part where the loop is. Took a small 2.2K surface mount resister and soldered it across the two leads of the fuse inside the drilled out cavity.
The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse.
Install mod'ed fuse in the place for the manual transmission. Your done, no more 1-4 shifting.
"The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse."
OK! ...I'm an electrical idiot. Where do I get this, and what is the "batter"
Thanks!
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Originally Posted by 91ZR1
"The other method is to get one of the smart fuses (with the LED) and connect it across the POS & NEG legs of the batter. Dead short = blown fuse."
OK! ...I'm an electrical idiot. Where do I get this, and what is the "batter"
Thanks!
John
Get the smart fuse at most any auto parts stores. The "batter" is shorthand for battery. Just make sure you get a SMART fuse. The packaging will indicate that the fuse will glow (that's the led in the fuse) when it is blown. Of course it has to be in the fuse box and powered for it to glow. Good luck.
dive it like you stole it.
two months with my GS and only had 1-4 enable once.
I had it tuned out on my 2006.
So far with the GS it is so infrequent, I am not messing with it.