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I don't have a M6, so this CAGS thing don't effect me ..
But I am really confused about why you would want to short the fuse to "blow" it .. then re-install this blown fuse.
If you have a blown fuse, it becomes nothing but an open circuit ... you could do the same thing by just removing the fuse altogether ... A blown fuse and no fuse at all are the same exact thing ... no electrical current passes through
I don't have a M6, so this CAGS thing don't effect me ..
But I am really confused about why you would want to short the fuse to "blow" it .. then re-install this blown fuse.
If you have a blown fuse, it becomes nothing but an open circuit ... you could do the same thing by just removing the fuse altogether ... A blown fuse and no fuse at all are the same exact thing ... no electrical current passes through
What am I missing here?
You missed that it's not just a standard fuse, it's an aftermarket fuse called a "smart fuse".
Everything you ever wanted to know about CAGS and how to disable it. Scroll to the bottom for the "smart fuse" option. http://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
Well, you're right I haven't seen it, and I still don't get it. How does the solenoid force a 1-4 shift if it's disconnected? Please explain exactly what happens when the CAGS eliminator plug thing "doesn't work" on a '13 model.
The eliminator plug thing "doesn't work" on a '13 model by the resistance value read by the computer when it engages the solenoid. The wrong resistance the computer is reading causes the computer to display the "check engine light" (CEL) which also causes the computer to display "reduce max speed".
The solenoid is still disabled but the computer doesn't like it.
I don't think so (but I have no way to verify). I followed the instructions for the fuse method (not the LED fuse) and used a 2.2K resister.
You blew the fuse AND added a resistor?
I'm really missing something.
The computer isn't 'reading' a resistor - it's energizing the solenoid, which causes current to flow through the solenoid's coil. If too little (or, I reckon, too much) current flows, the ECM sees that as a fault. That's why just unplugging the harness sets a CEL (at least, it did on my '99 Camaro).
When a resistor is subbed for the solenoid, current passes through it instead, and as long as it's within the acceptable range in the ECM's mind, everything works. If the resistor value that worked on 2012s doesn't work on 2013s, then the electrical characteristics of the solenoid have changed. Or something along those lines (maybe it's energizing both solenoids simultaneously now?)...
Last edited by Admiral Ballsy; Aug 27, 2012 at 12:39 PM.
The eliminator plug thing "doesn't work" on a '13 model by the resistance value read by the computer when it engages the solenoid. The wrong resistance the computer is reading causes the computer to display the "check engine light" (CEL) which also causes the computer to display "reduce max speed".
The solenoid is still disabled but the computer doesn't like it.
The fuse method works better for some reason.
Originally Posted by Admiral Ballsy
Sounds like the DC resistance of the solenoid has changed, then - so a different value resistor is required.
Now it makes sense. Betcha if you look in the parts book there's a different no. for the '13 solenoid. Should be easy enough to make an eliminator plug for the '13s, just measure the resistance of the solenoid and get the appropriate resistor. Our vendors could be working on it now.
Still wouldn't get rid of the dashboard light, if that matters. If you tune out CAGS does the light go away?
Sounds simple but that's what I did. The other fuse method uses a smart fuse which has a fues link plus a LED that lights when the fuse is blown. The LED acts as a resister.
Originally Posted by Admiral Ballsy
The computer isn't 'reading' a resistor - it's energizing the solenoid, which causes current to flow through the solenoid's coil. If too little (or, I reckon, too much) current flows, the ECM sees that as a fault. That's why just unplugging the harness sets a CEL (at least, it did on my '99 Camaro).
The soleniod is a an inductor which has a resistance value when energized. The computer is measuring the voltage value across the soleniod inputs which are a voltage. With the wrong resistance installed you get the wrong voltage reading across the soleniod leads. The computer sees the wrong voltage - sets the CEL.
Sounds simple but that's what I did. The other fuse method uses a smart fuse which has a fues link plus a LED that lights when the fuse is blown. The LED acts as a resister.
If you blow the fuse...it would seem that the resistor is irrelevant, since no current can flow to it regardless of value.
Originally Posted by Ken Erickson
The soleniod is a an inductor which has a resistance value when energized.
Since it appears we are going to get pedantic...inductance plays no role here. Inductance is a concept that applies only when discussing alternating current, and this system is purely DC. So the solenoid coil appears as a fixed resistor, which has a resistance whether energized or not.
This light will come on when:
• The engine coolant temperature is higher than
169°F (76°C),
• the vehicle is going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and
• the vehicle 21 percent throttle or less.
Knowing this, I've always wondered why anyone would ever feel the need to eliminate the CAGS.
Shiting to 2nd before 20mph, really?
Knowing this, I've always wondered why anyone would ever feel the need to eliminate the CAGS.
Shiting to 2nd before 20mph, really?
In traffic, sometimes it takes the Kia in front of me, a while to accelerate past 20 MPH. My LS7's torque is more then ample to pull me along in second gear at 15 MPH, thus I like to shift into second gear at 15 MPH(1150 RPM in 2nd gear) in traffic, instead of SLOWLY increasing my speed, in traffic, from 15 MPH to 20 MPH, staying in first gear, just so I can get around the skip shift feature. I have been driving a standard shift car since learning to drive my Mom's 1952 Chevy back in 1954, and I never had to worry about Nanny telling when I should shift gears back then, and I don't want Nanny telling me when to shift gears now. $20 for a CAGS eliminator, and I never have to adjust my driving to fit Nanny's demands.
In traffic, sometimes it takes the Kia in front of me, a while to accelerate past 20 MPH. My LS7's torque is more then ample to pull me along in second gear at 15 MPH, thus I like to shift into second gear at 15 MPH(1150 RPM in 2nd gear) in traffic, instead of SLOWLY increasing my speed, in traffic, from 15 MPH to 20 MPH, staying in first gear, just so I can get around the skip shift feature. I have been driving a standard shift car since learning to drive my Mom's 1952 Chevy back in 1954, and I never had to worry about Nanny telling when I should shift gears back then, and I don't want Nanny telling me when to shift gears now. $20 for a CAGS eliminator, and I never have to adjust my driving to fit Nanny's demands.
You just gave the guy making the "tramp stamp" and door lights and all the other ricer mods a new product....
The C6 Pushbar! I can hear it now...
"Tired of hitting CAGS due to the Kia/Hyundai/Smart car in front of you in traffic? No problem, install the C6 Pushbar and just plow them out of the way. Don't forget to turn on your signature "get to the right lane" tramp stamp light when you go by!"