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In traffic, sometimes it takes the Kia in front of me, a while to accelerate past 20 MPH. My LS7's torque is more then ample to pull me along in second gear at 15 MPH, thus I like to shift into second gear at 15 MPH(1150 RPM in 2nd gear) in traffic, instead of SLOWLY increasing my speed, in traffic, from 15 MPH to 20 MPH, staying in first gear, just so I can get around the skip shift feature. I have been driving a standard shift car since learning to drive my Mom's 1952 Chevy back in 1954, and I never had to worry about Nanny telling when I should shift gears back then, and I don't want Nanny telling me when to shift gears now. $20 for a CAGS eliminator, and I never have to adjust my driving to fit Nanny's demands.
In GM's (and Ford's, and Chrysler's) defense, it does save fuel - at least as measured by the EPA standards.
Ford dropped CAGS from the Mustang GT this year, and the city MPG dropped two points. 2011/12 was 17/26 for the M6, this year it's 15/26.
That's a big deal from a fleet average perspective.
I think we all know the purpose of the skip shift but we are talking about the different ways of not using the feature.
1) install a CAGS eliminator at $20.
2) install a smart fuse at $3.
3) modify the cars tune at $?????.
Of those who do not want to shift from first to fourth gear, who is using the most gas? The guy who drives from 15 MPH to 20 MPH in first gear(because he is driving around the CAGS) before shifting(15 MPH=1720 RPM to 20 MPH=2300 RPM) or me(with my CAGS eliminator) who shifts at 15 MPH into second gear at 1150 RPM and is only at 1540 RPM when I reach 20 MPH.
You just gave the guy making the "tramp stamp" and door lights and all the other ricer mods a new product....
The C6 Pushbar! I can hear it now...
"Tired of hitting CAGS due to the Kia/Hyundai/Smart car in front of you in traffic? No problem, install the C6 Pushbar and just plow them out of the way. Don't forget to turn on your signature "get to the right lane" tramp stamp light when you go by!"
Who wants a cast iron front license plate bracket that also serves as a push bar? Enough demand and I'll sell them.
Then why are people drilling or intentionally blowing fuses?
because a smart fuse has an LED in parallel with the fuse link, so when you blow the fuse, there is still the LED in the circuit that allows the computer to "read" the solenoid coil's resistence and sees that it still in the circuit but does not have enough voltage to enginize the solenoid to lock out second gear or to cause a CEL.
In traffic, sometimes it takes the Kia in front of me, a while to accelerate past 20 MPH. My LS7's torque is more then ample to pull me along in second gear at 15 MPH, thus I like to shift into second gear at 15 MPH(1150 RPM in 2nd gear) in traffic, instead of SLOWLY increasing my speed, in traffic, from 15 MPH to 20 MPH, staying in first gear, just so I can get around the skip shift feature. I have been driving a standard shift car since learning to drive my Mom's 1952 Chevy back in 1954, and I never had to worry about Nanny telling when I should shift gears back then, and I don't want Nanny telling me when to shift gears now. $20 for a CAGS eliminator, and I never have to adjust my driving to fit Nanny's demands.
Exactly. I can lope along in traffic in 2nd, lug 4th or run 1st up to 2500 burning fuel I'm getting no benefit of. I drive a manual, cuz I want to be in charge...not some software guy trying to "fool" EPA. If I only drove in light/no traffic conditions, I prolly wouldn't notice the CAGS much. But since this is a DD/commuter, the CAGS was kicking in routinely. Took me a week to say F*** this noise.
I just made this mod to my 2011 GS. I can say that it works as claimed. $3 for a pair of 10 amp smart fuses at Autozone (you only need one). Also totally reversible in 5 seconds if so desired. Went out testing the skip shift this morning, 1->4 lights up, I can shift into 2nd or any other gear.
Together with my homemade mild 2 wild switch, the best and cheapest mods I have ever made to a Corvette. Next will be a blend mount and mirror power cord for my radar detector. I ordered the parts off eBay this morning.
I seem to remember a CAGS discussion a long time ago that mentioned there are multiple similar plugs on the C6 transmission so it is possible to plug te CAGS disconnect resistor into a plug other than the CAGS solenoid. Could this be the reason why it seems to not work on the 2013? Just asking since it has been done before.
I was going to order a CAGS eliminator for my 2012 Grand Sport before I even picked it up. Then I did some research about the smart fuse, and I was going to go that route.
Now after having the car for two months and a little over 1000 miles, I have NEVER had the skip shift engauge on me. I think I must drive different from most. Under normal driving, I shift at very low RPM, so I think I shift too early for CAGS to enguage, and if I'm getting on it, I'm past where CAGS steps in.
I think people that run into CAGS all the time must be wasting fuel anyway. You are still in first gear when you could be all the way up in fourth.
The way a smart fuse works is that there are esentially two circuits in the fuse. One is the fuse link and the other is a LED circuit that lights when the fuse link is blown so you can readily see that the fuse is blown. Since the fuse link is near zero ohms and the LED circuit has a higher resistance, when everything is working normally the current flows through the fuse link and and the CAGS solenoid works and the computer "sees" the resistance of the CAGS solenoid and knows that the CAGS circuit is in place and functioning properly so you will not get a computer generated error. By intentionally blowing the smart fuse (or by manually breaking the fuse link) the CAGS solenoid can not activate but the LED circuit will now carry current to activate the LED so the solenoid does not activate but the computer is fooled into thinking that the circuit is still intact because it sees the resistance of the LED. Hope that helps.
I installed a skip shift eliminator from SLP in Toms River on my 2013 Gran Sport and have han no problems so far. The 1-4 light still comes on, but no forced shift.
its doesnt matter, due to the fact that you are blowing the fuse part anyway, but just get the one to match whats in there. All that matters is that, in the end, the disputer "sees" the change in loop current due to the resistance of the led, or just drive like me and let the throtte eliminate the light all together.
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