I have an 09 vette i purchased used. I have owned several other sports cars prior to purchase of vette. Knowing its used.... it seems to take a while for the traction control to work. IE I can be nearly sideways before active handling light comes on dash. I was,t sure so tested in parking lot while in second gear. I was able to spin vehicle before any lights triggered or nanny kicked in. Have been out and driving hard and had *** end step out. Expected it to happen but thought nanny might help prior. Only had her for two months but wondering if this is normal. I am not in competitive driving mode... normal stuff. Maybe its my car but need direction. She is loose already and want to add HP.... scary!!!! If I wanted that would have bought a Viper. Is this how GM sets up the vette with T/C or should I look into this further? My car,s T/C works at a point where I question why its there. Perhaps a vette thing. Would like to know.

 

That happens to me as well. So I'll be interested in the responces.

 

You can't drive like an idiot and expect the car to save you every time. The traction control and active handling work very well on my car. If you are driving at the edge and go a little too far for the conditions they kick in and keep you on the road. If you intentionally do things that would put a car in the ditch that didn't have these features, you have a good chance of going in the ditch. The computers are there to help you by doing things that you can't such as changing the force on individual tire patches. They allow you to go much faster than you could without them but they can't change the laws of physics.

 

What tires do you have ? Had the same problem with the Goodyears. Changed to Michelin P2's. You can still break them loose , but the traction is improved and less likely getyou sideways.

 

How far sideways are you going before it kicks in? I get my rear to swing out to between 4 & 5 o'clock and it corrects and I bring her back around. Mind you I'm doing this on purpose and am prepared for it. I'm also still running the original GY's.

 

 

I am currently running GY runflats on the car, but they are getting close to the end of their useful life. The car will get to 4 or 5 o`clock before t/c steps in. To me this seems like a better setting for comp driving mode than normal. I`ve owned several BMW`s and the t/c really steps in early. It is what some might refer to as helpful and preventative. Not that I or anyone drives like an "idiot" or thought t/c would help rewrite the laws of physics. I normally point my car at ditches and hope that d/c (ditch control) steps in to help me out. I wish my car was equipped with lights to let me know when things weren`t working. You could call them idiot lights after me and the way I drive.

Thought my first post was legit and had not seen anything similar in any searches. Just new here and to the vehicle. Wanted some feedback to see if a trip to the stealership was needed. It seems like I should make sure I have both car and life insurance paid on the first of every month.

I will probably replace the GY with Mich. Appreciate the insiteful feedback. I'm headed out to install my flux capacitor in line with t/c so I can defy physics and go back in time while looking for a light to appear on the dash.

 

I was pushing my GS very hard on an entrance ramp not to long ago and things just let go. It seem almost the instant the back end broke loose the nannys kicked in and corrected the car. I can not say that I saw a light however I was not looking at the dash.

 

I myself would have been looking for some TP! lol

 

I have the same experience on my 09 with GY runflats, which, are getting hard BTW. I can tell a noticeable difference in the 6 mos I've had the car. Now days, I can routinely get the car to 4 or 5 o'clock before TC or AH kicks in. Personally I like the ride and the forgiveness of TC and AH. Allows me to still have some fun while knowing the nanny's are there if it ever gets crazy, which it does. More often than not. I need a solution on how to stay out of the throttle!!

 

I can't say with certainly what's going-on with your car or whether or not there's a mechanical problem. I can share my experiences and opinions with respect to using the nannies. Over-the-years, my modified C6 evolved into a dedicated track car and my car puts-down some decent power.

The nannies may be beneficial in certain circumstances and they may be detrimental in certain circumstances. They are not a fail-safe in any circumstance. Always shutoff TC when going WOT. I can seemingly over-power TC and spin my tires if I want but I'd rather not have the system fighting my efforts to accerlerate at all. I can feather the throttle if need be. IMO using full nannies on a road course is dangerous. You expect the car to do one thing and it does something else. I feel using comp mode is a good learning tool and I highly recommend you use it as such. In comp mode TC is completely disabled and AH has a lesser level of intervention. When trying to go fast on a road course I do not want TC on at all! I don't know why it takes so long for AH to intervene on your car. If I use comp mode on a road course (with no TC and a lesser AH intervention), even with sticky racing slicks AH intervenes are virtually every corner and curve. Even with comp mode's lesser level of intervention it generally cuts throttle response (especially coming out of a corner) and kills my lap times in the process. With a lot of practice on a road course you'll find nanny intervention slows you down. I'm sure both TC and AH could be tweaked for track performance to actually improve lap times but in their present form they slow you down when racing.

A potential problem with your car notwithstanding....I'm not trying to sound patronizing but I suggest you take some HPDE courses or find road course venues in your area (NASA and SCCA are both great, national road racing organizations). You'll get good instruction and you'll be able to learn and experiment at your own pace in a safe environment. You be able to see what effect nanny intervention has. Again, I suggest you start with comp mode but if you want to experience full AH intervention just shutoff TC. Again a word of warning....I find full nanny intervention to be downright dangerous on a road course.

Can you get your car into comp mode? If one of your tire pressure sensors is not working it prevents you from engaging comp mode. I once made the mistake of going on-track knowing one of my TPS's wasn't registered properly. After the first corner I knew full nanny intervention might cause me to crash the car. I expected the car to behave one way and it did something else altogether. I had to exit the track and get all my TPS's registered properly.

A side note on TC intervention. I live on a dirt road. When I'd stop on the dirt road and then gently accelerate to turn onto a paved road TC would engage on my car. Not always but quite often. I guess just a little slippage was all it took. Then on the other hand, on a paved road with TC on I could mash the gas pedal and spin my tires at will seemingly over-powering TC. Go figure.

I can't say whether your nannies are malfunctioning but I will say don't experiment on a public road trying to push your car to the point of possibly losing it. It's not worth it. If you really feel there's a problem have a dealership check it out. Again, I can't stress enough how valuable you'll find running road courses to be. Not only can you learn, with practice, how to drive at speed but you'll have a proverbial blast in the process. Sorry for all the words but I hope something I said might help. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

It seems your active handling system is sluggish. I can feel mine working in a long high speed turn as I approach traction loss. Try resetting the system by disconnecting the battery, reconnect after a minute or two.

 

Traction control response varies with the conditions. If you pop the clutch and get both rear tires spinning it will let them spin and let the rear end walk around some (easy to do with positraction rear axle). It will not get so far out that you shouldn't be able to control it by turning into the skid with the steering wheel. As the back end walks around you just keep moving the steering wheel to counteract the direction the back end is slipping. If you do it right the back end will stay behind you. Winter Driving 101.

However, if one wheel slips before the other (common in low traction situations) the TC will step in quite a bit quicker. It will also step in if one rear wheel goes over a bump and the other doesn't. The bump causes the instantaneous wheel speed to change which the EBCM interprets as a slipping wheel and applies TC.

Bill

 

Bill is spot on.

I noticed that with both wheels spinning it takes longer to kick in.

 

Nothing wrong with your TC buddy. With old hard runcraps its very easy to break loose.

I just got new tires on my car and it was doing the same thing. Kinda fun though. Just slow stuff though with the old tires.

The TC and Yaw control on the C6 gives IMO a lot of tolerance to the driver. The Vette nannys are pretty good.

 

Primary Traction control is your right foot.

Remember, it's an accelerator pedal, not an on/off switch.