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Why do they scratch so easy?

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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 11:18 PM
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Default Why do they scratch so easy?

I have noticed that fine scratches show on vettes easier than on other vehicles. Anyone know why?
Please no smart remarks

I have an 04 vehicle and another 08 and neither one shows a scratch as easy as the vette. It's not because its metallic because my 04 is also metallic.

Lisa
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by C6Whatever
I have noticed that fine scratches show on vettes easier than on other vehicles. Anyone know why?
Please no smart remarks

I have an 04 vehicle and another 08 and neither one shows a scratch as easy as the vette. It's not because its metallic because my 04 is also metallic.

Lisa
metallic is under the clear coat...... the clear coat is what shows the "scratches"... now, are you talking spider web type or the kind the you hang your finger nail one when you pass it over it, that totally diff.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 11:28 PM
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Are you comparing apples to apples, meaning colors. Dark colors show more fine scratches than lighter ones.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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Nothing you can put your fingernail in. Fine lines, some spiderweb.
All our vehicles are dark colors. Dark red Avalanche, dark gold Explorer dark red vette

Lisa
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 05:27 AM
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I have 3 vehicles, no fine scratches. So I have to ask. Could it be you're running your cars through a car wash or not washing properly?

I have friends whose Vettes have swirls all over the paint. They don't understand why. I found out the hard way a few years ago when I used to send some of my vehicles through "hand wash" car washes. I soon found out, washing with dirty water by hand caused more damage.

There's a whole methodology for washing cars. Some of it will seem extreme but it works. My 2009, 2010 and 2011 vehicles have no scratches. Excerpt below from Autogeek's web site:

How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.

An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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The Autogeek's recommendations above are spot on but next you need to dry the car. You can produce almost as many scratches drying as washing but it is almost impossible to scratch the paint if you never touch the car. That is why you use a leaf blower rather than a chamois. Just as fast and nothing touches the car. Over 5 years of regular washing and I'm the only one who knows where a couple of scratches can be found on mine.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:40 AM
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I'm probably going to invest in the electric leaf blower, simply because my back cant take the extra bending over it requires to dry the car properly. Also have to mention the mirrors, turn signals and taillights seems to drip water FOREVER. With the leaf blower (or Master Blaster) I can force water out of those tight areas.

Question now is what leaf blower to go with. Or should I just invest in the Master Blaster?
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Any leaf blower will do the job. The secret is to have a slick finish that won't hold onto the water. I prefer Rejex but any good sealant or wax will do. I dislike the idea of the Master Blaster to evaporate the water on the car with heat. That's where water spots come from.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by FortMorganAl
Any leaf blower will do the job. The secret is to have a slick finish that won't hold onto the water. I prefer Rejex but any good sealant or wax will do. I dislike the idea of the Master Blaster to evaporate the water on the car with heat. That's where water spots come from.
I've read where a gas powered blower can spew oily contanimants on the car and an electric one is the only way to go. Any truth to this?
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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You can get a good electric leaf blower with lots of power for under $50 and then you don't have to be concerned with any of those contaminants.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by turbod
I have 3 vehicles, no fine scratches. So I have to ask. Could it be you're running your cars through a car wash or not washing properly?

I have friends whose Vettes have swirls all over the paint. They don't understand why. I found out the hard way a few years ago when I used to send some of my vehicles through "hand wash" car washes. I soon found out, washing with dirty water by hand caused more damage.

There's a whole methodology for washing cars. Some of it will seem extreme but it works. My 2009, 2010 and 2011 vehicles have no scratches. Excerpt below from Autogeek's web site:

How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.

An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.

The only part I would disagree on is the use of a sponge. I suggest that you get a good quality wash pad or mitt, and not one from K-Mart or Walmart, but from a leading auto detail products supplier. I happen to use nothing but Adams and he sell a top quality mitt. I also recommend the grit guard over just a bucket of water.
Most fine scratches are caused by either improper washing improper supplies.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueOx
You can get a good electric leaf blower with lots of power for under $50 and then you don't have to be concerned with any of those contaminants.
Great thread. Will apply some of tips to my new black C6 (black paint always seems to get fine scratches just from looking at it).

Thanks
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LooseScrew
I've read where a gas powered blower can spew oily contanimants on the car and an electric one is the only way to go. Any truth to this?
Some say yes. Some say no. I have electric with a 25 foot extension to use near the garage so I wouldn't know. A 100 foot extension cord isn't that expensive so...
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by LooseScrew
I've read where a gas powered blower can spew oily contanimants on the car and an electric one is the only way to go. Any truth to this?
A good gas powered blower won't do that - a cheap one might. Like everything else you get what you pay for.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Daekwan06
I'm probably going to invest in the electric leaf blower, simply because my back cant take the extra bending over it requires to dry the car properly. Also have to mention the mirrors, turn signals and taillights seems to drip water FOREVER. With the leaf blower (or Master Blaster) I can force water out of those tight areas.

Question now is what leaf blower to go with. Or should I just invest in the Master Blaster?
I have used both and can tell you there is no comparison between the two. No clunky leaf blower to lug around your car, just a nice long flexible hose that lets you get into the door jambs, wheel wells, mirrors, tail lights and so on. It is one of those items I consider a little overpriced but.........it does the job better than no other item can. JMHO
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
I have used both and can tell you there is no comparison between the two. No clunky leaf blower to lug around your car, just a nice long flexible hose that lets you get into the door jambs, wheel wells, mirrors, tail lights and so on. It is one of those items I consider a little overpriced but.........it does the job better than no other item can. JMHO
I've had my Master Blaster for a year and a half and love it. Before buying it I used an electric leaf blower and while it worked OK, it was nowhere near as fast as the Master Blaster. The Master Blaster is like a jet engine with a hose. It warms the air that it puts out but not to the point where it causes spotting.

The only other thing I can add to this discussion is that I've had great success washing with microfiber towels. They're all I've used in my 7+ years of Corvette ownership and the car is still free of swirls and spiderwebs.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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It's a matter of personal perception regarding scratches. A garage queen owner is very critical of any imperfection, while a road warrior is proud of the battle scars.

The average person-on-the-street can't tell the difference and doesn't care either. To them, if it's clean, it looks great.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by C6Whatever
Nothing you can put your fingernail in. Fine lines, some spiderweb.
All our vehicles are dark colors. Dark red Avalanche, dark gold Explorer dark red vette

Lisa
That's exactly what I did run my finger across dusty exterior not I can see the scratch in paint so very fine nonetheless
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mpuzach
I've had my Master Blaster for a year and a half and love it. Before buying it I used an electric leaf blower and while it worked OK, it was nowhere near as fast as the Master Blaster. The Master Blaster is like a jet engine with a hose. It warms the air that it puts out but not to the point where it causes spotting.

The only other thing I can add to this discussion is that I've had great success washing with microfiber towels. They're all I've used in my 7+ years of Corvette ownership and the car is still free of swirls and spiderwebs.
I use electric el Toro 200+ mph and it still takes me at least 30 minutes to get the car dry.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
I have used both and can tell you there is no comparison between the two. No clunky leaf blower to lug around your car, just a nice long flexible hose that lets you get into the door jambs, wheel wells, mirrors, tail lights and so on. It is one of those items I consider a little overpriced but.........it does the job better than no other item can. JMHO
Originally Posted by mpuzach
I've had my Master Blaster for a year and a half and love it. Before buying it I used an electric leaf blower and while it worked OK, it was nowhere near as fast as the Master Blaster. The Master Blaster is like a jet engine with a hose. It warms the air that it puts out but not to the point where it causes spotting.

The only other thing I can add to this discussion is that I've had great success washing with microfiber towels. They're all I've used in my 7+ years of Corvette ownership and the car is still free of swirls and spiderwebs.
I dont mind paying the $300 bucks for the Master Blaster. I see it as an investment for many years to come.. that will easily pay for itself with the time & effort it saves me on drying. I can imagine the MB also does a better job of getting water out of those problem areas I mentioned before (turn signals, mirrors, taillights).

I just wanted to hear some opinion on people who have used BOTH. And can tell me if the Master Blaster is really worth the extra bucks. I've seen both of you guys previous posts and trust your experience & advice. Even better my birthday is 3 weeks away.. and girlfriend has been asking me over and over what I'd like as a gift!

Last edited by Daekwan06; Oct 28, 2012 at 03:42 PM.
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