50,000 Miles
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 96
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50,000 Miles
Our 2009 C6 is about to reach 50,000 miles in the next month or so. So far, everything's been good; however, I was wondering what items should be replaced to ensure the next 50,000 go just as smoothly.
Things I've changed:
- Transmission Fluid and Filter
- Power Steering Fluid
- Front and rear brakes (at 45k)
- Cabin Air Filter
- Wiper Blades
- Tires (at 30k)
- Engine Air Filter
- Coolant Flush (because car sat on dealer's lot for 1+ year)
Do any belts need replacing before 150k? What about the PCV valve? The car is mainly used as a daily driver, so it gets started at least once a day and sees roughly 15-18,000 miles a year. The original battery's been holding up great, and the shocks have held up great even with the bumpy roads we have here in NYC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Things I've changed:
- Transmission Fluid and Filter
- Power Steering Fluid
- Front and rear brakes (at 45k)
- Cabin Air Filter
- Wiper Blades
- Tires (at 30k)
- Engine Air Filter
- Coolant Flush (because car sat on dealer's lot for 1+ year)
Do any belts need replacing before 150k? What about the PCV valve? The car is mainly used as a daily driver, so it gets started at least once a day and sees roughly 15-18,000 miles a year. The original battery's been holding up great, and the shocks have held up great even with the bumpy roads we have here in NYC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Our 2009 C6 is about to reach 50,000 miles in the next month or so. So far, everything's been good; however, I was wondering what items should be replaced to ensure the next 50,000 go just as smoothly.
Things I've changed:
- Transmission Fluid and Filter
- Power Steering Fluid
- Front and rear brakes (at 45k)
- Cabin Air Filter
- Wiper Blades
- Tires (at 30k)
- Engine Air Filter
- Coolant Flush (because car sat on dealer's lot for 1+ year)
Do any belts need replacing before 150k? What about the PCV valve? The car is mainly used as a daily driver, so it gets started at least once a day and sees roughly 15-18,000 miles a year. The original battery's been holding up great, and the shocks have held up great even with the bumpy roads we have here in NYC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Things I've changed:
- Transmission Fluid and Filter
- Power Steering Fluid
- Front and rear brakes (at 45k)
- Cabin Air Filter
- Wiper Blades
- Tires (at 30k)
- Engine Air Filter
- Coolant Flush (because car sat on dealer's lot for 1+ year)
Do any belts need replacing before 150k? What about the PCV valve? The car is mainly used as a daily driver, so it gets started at least once a day and sees roughly 15-18,000 miles a year. The original battery's been holding up great, and the shocks have held up great even with the bumpy roads we have here in NYC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
The one item missing from your list is brake fluid. Flush anytime it turns real dark or black. If you DIY, do a search for the method.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 35
From: Jupiter Fl
Belts are good for 100,000 -150000 plus miles (assuming no harmonic balancer issues). No PCV valve to change !! Shocks seem to be good for 100,000+. Radiator hoses should be checked and changed when they feel brittle or start to swell up!! Flushing the brake fluid every couple of years is a good idea, Just don't run the system dry, purging the antilock brake module requires a specific computer controller to modulate the ABS system if you run it dry!! Other than that I think your on the right track for a long and happy Vette Life.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 13
From: Loveland CO to Central Coast CA
Wow! 50k miles in NYC! Isn't that like 100k anywhere else? 
-- I'd get a new battery... cheap insurance & peace-of-mind. Fob batteries, too.
-- Wheel alignment, check suspension components, maybe new shocks.
-- From another thread:
-- I'd get a new battery... cheap insurance & peace-of-mind. Fob batteries, too.
-- Wheel alignment, check suspension components, maybe new shocks.
-- From another thread:
...if you have a rattling/popping noise from front or rear -- most noticeable at low speeds -- definitely GET NEW END LINKS!
It eliminated the noise and fixed an unsettled rear-floaty feel that developed on my 09 C6 Z51. Felt like new!
About $300 parts & labor at a dealer. Or ~$125 parts and DIY:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-question.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ifference.html
It eliminated the noise and fixed an unsettled rear-floaty feel that developed on my 09 C6 Z51. Felt like new!
About $300 parts & labor at a dealer. Or ~$125 parts and DIY:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-question.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ifference.html
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 407
From: Naples, Florida
I changed the shocks in my 05 coupe at 55k with Billsteins. Great move, you won't believe the difference in the ride. Also, I make it a habit to change the differential fluid about every two years (I use the Amsoil 75-90 gear oil). If you've experienced the "clunking" sound when you back up, it's time to change the differential fluid. Good luck!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 16,069
Likes: 4,152
From: Bergen county NJ
I had the spark plug wires swapped out at 50k miles and found cylinders 3,6 and 7 had no electrodes on the spark plugs...so I'd recommend swapping out the plugs...
I went with the bilstein sport shocks to replace my z51 shocks at the same time.
I did the cabin filter once and thats it. That in my opinion is a total waste of time....
I went with the bilstein sport shocks to replace my z51 shocks at the same time.
I did the cabin filter once and thats it. That in my opinion is a total waste of time....
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,593
Likes: 1,674
From: Pearland / Houston Tx
As noted in my service log, I did this at 55,000:
MAJOR SERVICE
1) TRANS FLUID & FILTER Change (Valvoline Dex VI Synthetic).
2) COOLANT Drain & Fill (Prestone Dex-Cool).
3) Clean Air & Cabin Filters.
4) OIL CHANGE - Mobil 1 Synthetic/ AC Delco Filter. Oil Life Remaining 47%
5) Replace FRONT BRAKE PADS (Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallic)
6) Clean and Check Rear Pads.
7) Bleed Brakes (Prestone DOT 4)
8) Solvent Clean Fuel Injectors.
9) Check Engine Drive Belt-OK.
10) Check Battery-OK but slowing.
11) Replace FRONT TIRES - General G-MAX AS-03 (Discount Tire-got 31,500 miles on the Faulkens).
12) Lubricate Hinges / Locks / Latches.
13) Tighten Body Fasteners.
14) Check underbody for issues-OK.
15) Grease Rear Tie Rod Ends.
16) Replace right rear Sway End Link
17) Dielectric Grease Connectors.
18) Clean Radiator Fins.
19) Wax Car
20) Fuel Gage sticking-added SeaFoam to gas, regimen of SeaFoam/Techron/Marvel Mys Oil here forward
MAJOR SERVICE
1) TRANS FLUID & FILTER Change (Valvoline Dex VI Synthetic).
2) COOLANT Drain & Fill (Prestone Dex-Cool).
3) Clean Air & Cabin Filters.
4) OIL CHANGE - Mobil 1 Synthetic/ AC Delco Filter. Oil Life Remaining 47%
5) Replace FRONT BRAKE PADS (Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallic)
6) Clean and Check Rear Pads.
7) Bleed Brakes (Prestone DOT 4)
8) Solvent Clean Fuel Injectors.
9) Check Engine Drive Belt-OK.
10) Check Battery-OK but slowing.
11) Replace FRONT TIRES - General G-MAX AS-03 (Discount Tire-got 31,500 miles on the Faulkens).
12) Lubricate Hinges / Locks / Latches.
13) Tighten Body Fasteners.
14) Check underbody for issues-OK.
15) Grease Rear Tie Rod Ends.
16) Replace right rear Sway End Link
17) Dielectric Grease Connectors.
18) Clean Radiator Fins.
19) Wax Car
20) Fuel Gage sticking-added SeaFoam to gas, regimen of SeaFoam/Techron/Marvel Mys Oil here forward
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Bill
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
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From: King George VA
If you do it the old fashioned way all you will need is a jack, jacking puck, a lug nut wrench/socket, a 1/2 in torque wrench for reinstalling the lug nuts, a 10 mm box end wrench for opening and closing the bleeder screws, something to suck old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and another person to pump the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder valve and tell them when to push and hold and when to release. Also the new brake fluid. Bleed order is right rear, left front, left rear, right front. Bleed each caliper until new fluid comes out.
Bill
Bill
This method will not get the fluid out that is in the ABS reservoir, but I personally don't think that is necessary if you bleed your brakes relatively often. As I bleed mine after every track session, and use ABS on every track session, there is no need for me to have to activate the ABS electronically for a bleed. For those that only bleed once every five years or so, maybe a little more important, but not worth the time and money in my opinion. When I did my first bleed from DOT 3 to DOT 4 for the track, I bleed real well, took it out for a drive and activated ABS several times, then put it back up and bleed it again and called it good enough.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 96
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Checking in at 65,000 miles and counting. Aside from a dead battery issue and a tie rod issue from going over too many potholes, the car has been great! Thanks for all the advice, I've definitely been keeping up on maintenance and following your advice! At this rate we will be at 260k in 15 years (which is how long we usually keep cars)...