My 2012 GS had the same issue and my dealer said there is recall so he did the work and the vibration is gone.

 

It is one anyway.

I believe the service procedure from GM is to check and be sure all 5 retainer clips are in correct use, then adding a bead of silicon to the clips.

The clips secure the bottom edge of the cowl to the bottom edge of the window, they run across the length of the cowl, 5 in all.

I tired the silicon under the flexible part of the cowl and just proceeded to tear the seam. Others have reported doing a better job!

 

i need to fix mine…thanks for the tips

 

08 here too that I need to do. Hoping to get to it this weekend

Lisa

 

Gm PI0766

FixforBuzzNoiseatBaseofWindshield.pdf

 

Yes, thank you, I have read that doc. I will likely head that direction and or silicone it.

My basic question is if there has been a tech bulletin to replace/recall on other year cars, and if the 09 is using the same faulty piece, why the dealership won't replace it at their cost?

 

TSB/PI/PIC unless an actual recall , is not required to be fixed for free at a dealership. They can if they wish or not depending i guess how much they like your business. PI0766 (old PIC5664) is not a recall.

 

Although related, but having to do with a different car, I go nuts when there are buzzing or vibration noises.

I had a VW Rabbit back in the late eighties and those things would rattle so bad when you'd decelerate coming up to, and idling at a stop. Sometimes the whole dash would shake back and forth. I disassembled it and stuffed socks into every nook to absorb the rattles. Yeah, it sort of worked, but it seemed to have moved the location of all the shaking.

So the main place it redistributed itself was to the gear shift lever. It would buzz and vibrate something fierce. In all my infinite wisdom, I got so pissed off at that thing, without thinking, I slammed my fist down upon the top of the gear shift. Very unexpectedly, the whole lever disappeared right out of the bottom of the car....sitting at the busy intersection (happened to be at the Bass Pro Shop in Springfield, Mo - funny when you're in distress you remember those things).

As my wife sat there shaking her head and saying, "see what your anger causes...," I reached down through the floor and pulled it back through the hole. It was then discovered that I only had third gear. Needless to say, I had an interesting drive back home, and I learned to control my self when it came to "noises and rattles" in vehicles.

 

The good old UAW strikes again. Everybody strike up a chorus of "Look For The Union Label">

 

Interesting thread thank u

 

This is what we needed THANKS!!

 

So is this a warranty item or no?

 

Fix it yourself. Takes 10 minutes.

 

It is a warranty item. My cowl was missing some of the clips, so in order to get the clips, the dealer had to get the new part so they replaced the old cowl with the new design.

 

Thanks, I used this bulletin while fixing my cowl today. I've posted a few pictures, for what it's worth.

1. Remove the torx screw from the driver's-side, plastic inlet and prop it up.


2. Remove the torx screw from the large, plastic windshield cowl on the passenger's side of the vehicle.


3. Remove the the rubber hood seal. (It's the contoured piece of rubbery foam that snaps in place and spans the width of the vehicle.) Now remove the 4 exposed metal clasps on the front-side of the large cowl that hold it stationary.

4. Gently separate the large cowl from the underside of the windshield. There are five plastic underhooks that hold the cowl in place. I was able to separate most of the cowl and reveal 4 of the 5 underhooks. (I couldn't expose the middle one without fear of breaking it off.) The images below show the exposed underhooks.




5. Use butyl tape, or an equivalent, to wrap each exposed underhook, such that when the cowl is snapped/forced back under the windshield, the underhooks will be less prone to vibration. I used about 1.5" to wrap each underhook. (Before wrapping, I did my best to clean each underhook with mineral spirits, so the tape would stick better.)


6. Here's one of the underhooks, wrapped in butyl tape.


Like others, I noticed the thin, rubber piece that lays flat against the windshield had separated from the cowl in one section, about 8" in length. I used Gorilla tape on the underside to hold the rubber piece to the cowl. (Be sure to wipe the underside of both pieces with mineral spirits or something equivalent, so the tape will stick.)

Before I performed this 30-minute job, the buzzing was heard at speeds over 60 MPH, but now I don't hear anything.

Hope this helps.

 

I had the buzz, which sounded like it originated in the dash behind the glove box. After research here on the forum, I did mine about a year ago using method noted above, except the butyl caulk I used was black. Quick, simple, and no noise since.

This forum is the best for information that really enhances the ownership experience and correcting some of GM's "issues".

 

Perfect timing, mine was buzzing on the drive home from the dealer Monday, now I know why and how to fix.

 

Getting the wiper arms removed is the biggest challenge, without a puller tool.

Be sure to mark the location for reinstalling the arms.

You will have to separate the wiper fluid tube too. Check for its routing.

Edit: Looks like this can be down without removal of the wipers.

 

This noise has been driving me crazy. Thanks for the pics of the fix.

 

Hey
I had the noise - isolated it by using tape, noise disappeared, then pulled the tape, noise reappeared.

Fixed it very cheaply by applying a thin bead of clear silicone adhesive under the lip and taping it down to cure over night.

No more noise.

I don't believe I had the clip problem but, rather, that as it ages the thin lip which lays against the windshield gets less stiff and it flutters against the windshield, creating a buzz which is so loud it sounds like it is coming from under the dashboard.

Just did a trip to AZ and Vegas at, let's say varying speeds, no noise.