I think the battery draw down will occur in 21 days on a mechanically perfect Corvette. In that, if you don't run your car in 21 days you can expect a dead battery. So there's a current drain that is normal...just watch your alarm armed lights blink and you know that.

In past years, you could disconnect the positive battery terminal and connect a volt meter between the post and the removed battery cable and if there was a current draw, the volt meter would read 12.6 volts. With the meter connected, start pulling fuses one at a time until the volt meter reads zero. The fuse removed that caused the voltmeter to go to zero is the culprit circuit. Trouble shoot that circuit for ground faults, or short circuits and you can fix the problem. In newer cars with so many computer systems that monitor the car's systems even when it's not running, that trouble shooting tactic may not work...it's kinda "old school"?????

 

Subscribed.

 

You need a good electrical tech either at independent garage or at Chevy dealer. Seach your area for recommendations. Oh my 2012 z06 sits for longer than 21 days and no dead battery and it has mild to wild. Anyone check fobs battery to see if they are good. It maybe loosing communication with car causing shut down.
z51vett
Doug

 

Another way to solve this type of problem, add one or two flat washers to bolts, I have done this before. I guess it was cheaper to grind off the bolts than spend 20 cents or so at Lowes.

 

Top Fuel, you are giving him some very GOOD advice, I hope he listens to you. It is probably a very simple fix when you find it, the problem is to find it. There was another problem on another thread where a connector plug wire separator clip was missing on the plug wire coil connector, simple fix and it is working so far that I last read, no more stumbling.

I was a top student in electrical/mechanical nine month class in the service. Working out in the field with 45 technicians, only ten knew what they were really doing. The rest you didn't really want to follow them, they twisted, turned, etc. anything they could see or touch. It would take an accomplished repairmen to reset it up to basic specs and it would run 99% of the time. Now you know how i feel about technicians. I should be an engineer except for the higher math, that's where I failed.

TF, keep up those great tips you are giving, it could just be a loose connection, bad crimp, corrison, no connection that is dangling, etc. A very good visual and jiggling of connections, slipping connections on and off a few times, torn boot, etc. I know that you get the idea, many techs don't think like we do.

To the OP, hang in there, the previous plug connector missing part owner was about to give up. Follow him, and keep looking, someone will find the problem, it only takes one bad part or connection, etc.

I'm counting on you to hang in there, please find another shop when the current shop is exhausted. Then you lhave a chance.

,, &

 

Well, good news / bad news. The bad is that we'll never know what the problem is and I will be getting rid of my Torch Red beauty. (Man, I like that color).

The good news, I guess, is that GM is taking the car back. That's pretty much all I'm comfortable sharing at this point. I don't know any details as far as reimbursement for my car, etc., but I've been reassured that I will be taken care of. We'll see...

I'm comfortable with the attempts by the dealer to find the problem. One other dealer, and GM in their first buy-back, could not isolate this issue. Maybe an independent shop could have found something? Who knows? How much more does a person keep trying?

Thanks to all for you recommendations, tips, and well-wishes. Here's hoping I'll be posting pictures of a replacement C6 soon...

 

 

Of course you will. There are so many beauties out there to pick from.

No need to fret the past now, just enjoy the hunt for the next one!

I still hunt 'em, even though I'm set for now. But I did enjoy the hunting so much, that I just can't completely stop.

In fact, here is a torch red GS vert that I saw just a few days ago:
http://cadillachouston.sewell.com/we...on-TX/1380856/

Good Luck, and show us all the pics when you can - so we know, The End Of The Story.
.

 

You need to wire the mild to wild through the seat heater fuse block, as the the original point they use is hot all the time {Exhaust Fuse}, as the module will slowly drain your battery. I have mine that way. Never have had a battery issue.

http://www.pfyc.com/supportfiles/mildtowild.pdf
----Alternate “0” Drain Installation-----

 

Thanks I saw that.... will be changing mine.. appreciate it ...
/jc

 

I do not claim personal expertise, but I know for sure that I have read many times, and it is in the install instructions for M2W, that if you leave the baffles open (wild setting) there is no drain.

I have let my car sit for weeks at a time due to my business and vacation travel. I have never had a low battery problem. I do leave it in wild.

That setting is the same as no fuse at all, and I cannot see how there could be a current flow if the fuse was pulled, and the circuit was thus not complete.

JH, do you disagree with what I am saying here?

 

I'm no expert either but I always leave it in WILD mode and have this issue with battery drain on both my 08 and now my 13 GS... Something ain't right...

 

Correct, It is if you leave it in the "On" mode that you will have the problem, the "Zero" drain install just eliminates the issue of forgetting to change the position from "On" to "Off". If you pull the fuse, you have it in a permanent Wild position {Off} and besides if you don't have a module to change positions so this would not apply. It's the module that has a slight drain on the battery.

 

Not true. I regularly let my car sit in a cold garage for more time than that and it fires right up. Longest time it spent without the battery being charged was about 5 weeks. Started right up.

If it is possible with one car it is possible with all of them.

A lot of people fall victim to the battery myth. Oh, by the way you can discharge batteries several times without hurting them in the short run. They may totally fail sooner than they should a year so later but they can take multiple discharges. I've depleted mine several times when working on the car and the battery came back.

Bill

 

Without question, something isn't right.

I just don't see that it is the M2W unless it is left in the "on" (mild) position. And the thing is, if the technician involved is chasing the wrong thing, then the real cause will remain unresolved.

 

Bill, you must be right if it happened that way with yours. I know it was that way on the C5 since I traveled often for a month or more. New battery with no issues would not start the car right at 22 days. But, there are clearly some things that continue to draw battery power when the car's not in use...witness the blinking lights...lol. Anyway, I hope the OP finds the trouble in his electrical system.