Refresh me. When lowering the front on a 06 ,does it take a 6 mm wrench and do you turn the nut counterclock wise.

 

Yes it is counterclockwise but I believe it is 10mm

 

10mm. soak the bolts, unload the springs and count the turns so they are all the same.

 

And get an alignment.

Be sure and turn each side of the F and R an equal number of turns or you'll change F to R and/or L to R balances.

 

Alignment really isn't necessary if they are all done evenly and the factory differences are maintained (left to right wheel gap). I mean check to see how it does on the road, but 13,500 miles since I lowered mine and I have 0 tire wear issues and it tracks straighter than any other car we own.

 

After you lower it take a ride and then use your tape measure and check that both sides are the same and you will be OK....

 

Bowling Green doesn't use the fender height to set the spring load, you shoudn't either. "Both sides the same with a tape measure" means absolutely nothing.

 

Anytime you change the specs on ANY part of the suspension you change the alignment. You got lucky, somebody else may not.

The "wheel gap" isn't how Bowling Green sets the car up new and shouldn't be used by a DIY mechanic.

 

The springs will settle to so give it a few miles to do so before final checking.

 

I don't care what Bowling Green does!!! They can't even align a vette right..I did not say that i use the Fender to measure....

 

Know that your car may not have been setup precisely at the factory (mine wasn't) nor will turning bolts an equal number of turns guaranty an accurate, balanced setup. To be fair, for most casual 'street' drivers it may not make much of a difference but if you really want an accurate setup following certain steps and procedures will help. Back when I used the stock suspension, I worked with a knowledgeable friend (using his home lift) to lower, 'level' and balance my car for track use. An alignment would also be recommended.

This may be way more than you care to do but it really isn't all the difficult. FWIW.….realize anytime you adjust one bolt it affects the other corners of the car...especially the one diagonally. Having access to a level, drive-on lift is invaluable…you can make adjustments while the car is in the air and while its sitting perfectly level. Start by checking/adjusting your tire pressures; start with a half tank of fuel; and, if you’re a stickler you can place weights on the driver’s seat to approximate the body weight of the driver. Take a mildly spirited drive beforehand to ‘settle’ the suspension. You can also settle the suspension in the shop/garage by physically bouncing the front and rear of the car. When the car is in the air and sitting perfectly level measure each corner for starting reference points. We used hard points on the frame near to each of the oval frame slots (where jacking pucks would go). There’s what looks like a round rivet head near each of the oval openings in the frame….these are the points we used to measure from. Don't measure from body panels and don't use 'tire gap' to visually make adjustments from. Realize you’re only going to get so much from the stock bolts and you’re not going to get each corner “perfect” but start adjusting the bolts. You may have to use a small jack to put mild pressure on the transverse leaf spring (one way or the other) so that a stubborn bolt will turn. Your car may not be balanced side-to-side to begin with (like mine was) so keep that in-mind when adjusting both the front and rear bolts. After your first adjustments re-measure to see where you’re at (side-to-side, front and rear and front to rear) then take the car for another mildly spirited drive to re-settle the suspension. Get the car back onto the level lift and re-measure to see where you’re at. Chances are you’ll need to make further adjustments to get where you want to be. It’s a process of measuring, adjusting the bolts, re-measuring, re-settling the suspension and repeating the process to get where you want. Ultimately, if you can get your side-to-side measurements (front and rear) to within 1/8” you’re doing extremely well. It might be a 1/4" but do the best you can. I think it took us 3 passes before we were satisfied. You can 'see' what the rake of the car was from your original height measurements. We also placed a long level along the frame under the rocker panels (on both sides) to see roughly what rake there is. For track use we were trying to flatten and level the car as much as possible while keeping a slight rake front to rear.

It's been a while since I had the stock suspension and did this so I might be forgetting something. Having access to a level, drive-on lift is half the battle....all the other steps are relatively easy to do. I hope this helps. Good luck!

 

Right.

You're using a tape measure on the Factory specified suspension points? Is that a GM special tape measure graduated in tenths?

Check a Service Manual on how to set suspension height.

 

I'd make sure to have an alignment done. Alignment $100 dollars set of tires $1000 and up. I just lowered mine last week, drove it around town and had an alignment done at a local dealership. You'll love having the car lowered

 

Really man...who cares. Guys not going trying win LeMans....

 

Right ON.. My was off when it was new & still is about 1/4" & my is not lowered.STOCK"

 

I don't need a damm service manual,if i was to lower my i would do it like the Nascar guys..I would bet that you do not know how they do it..LASER....

 

Not many Nascar guys running transverse leaf springs front and rear.

The Laser is for alignment, More accurate than a tape measure.

 

Yes: i know Nascar does not have transverse springs,but i do know how Nascar & others check the hight front & rear and they have to be right on...

 

The "Nascar guys" don't have transverse leaf springs so how can you "lower it like the Nascar guys"? You might be able to check the results of the lowering with a laser but you can't actually lower the car with a laser.

The Laser they use is to check (measure) the result of the suspension movement that they did.

 

You are Right about checking the results with a laser,but you use tools to lower it with, or shocks and springs.I'm goning to put some coilovers on my maybe next year & i here that they will bring it down.??