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Actually, the hardest part in these kind of project is making the precision template - where I can make all the adjustments before the actual work! You can see in the upper left corner of the photo with the mock up template for the coil relocation bracket. Under the bottom half of the catch can, you can see, on the clipboard, the actual trace location next to the right side of the radiator shroud, between the hood strut, but I decided that was a poor location for catch can mount.
Yes, I did the T6 bracket as well, after weighting in other possible mounting considerations, then decided on a proper designed bracket is best for my application.
You're work is inspiring but, unfortunately, most of use do not have access to the equipment required to make such modifications. I think I'm going to go with the RX can but I wish it could be opened for emptying/cleaning like the EE.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Originally Posted by iclick
What about a length of hose that would allow a plug at the end that's accessible from under the car? That way you could drain it every time you change the oil.
If you leave the valve open and trust the plug to hold the vacumn I'd be concerned it would come loose. You would then be bubbling a lot of dirty air through oil directly into the intake. But if you don't leave the valve open then you still have the main issue of opening the valve in an inconvenient location with a hose that doesn't want to turn connected to it.
Originally Posted by iclick
My petcock is broken like yours and have been debating on whether to replace it or not. Your procedure sounds as good as any, but I also thought about removing the hoses at the CC, unscrew the top, and suck the oil out with a small hose or straw.
By the time you've removed the hoses you are 90% of the way to removing the can from the car. Loosen one set screw and it's out.
Here's an idea for someone - add a small check valve to a connection on the bottom. When the engine is running the check valve blocks 99.999% of the air that would come into the can. Any leakage would easily be cleaned by the oil. When the engine is stopped the oil drains through the check valve to another transparent container below that could be easily inspected, removed, and cleaned. Patent not pending.
One question, though: How do you get to the petcock to drain it? I can't even begin to get my hands down there in a position to open and close it. I could pull the hoses off and unscrew the top, then suck the oil out with a hose. That wouldn't need to be done often, I wouldn't think.
Like you mentioned, my plan is just to remove it to drain it. It doesn't take much time to take it out.
I think I'm going to copy you and add some additional protection for the hoses at the bottom of the can. Good idea.
You're work is inspiring but, unfortunately, most of use do not have access to the equipment required to make such modifications. I think I'm going to go with the RX can but I wish it could be opened for emptying/cleaning like the EE.
Rx can is ok but the take apart feature of the EE is hard to deny.
If I don't have the resource support, EE CC can easily mod'ed to something similar to my add'ed on internal extension. JB Weld can do wonders with an suitable metal tube extension or I can look for a welder person willing to tack weld that extension onto the EE's filter housing outlet. The main idea behind the extension is to extend the distance between the inlet/outlet of the already great EE's efficiency. Its relatively simple idea really and EE uses high grade aluminum for their product to boot.
Rx can is ok but the take apart feature of the EE is hard to deny.
If I don't have the resource support, EE CC can easily mod'ed to something similar to my add'ed on internal extension. JB Weld can do wonders with an suitable metal tube extension or I can look for a welder person willing to tack weld that extension onto the EE's filter housing outlet. The main idea behind the extension is to extend the distance between the inlet/outlet of the already great EE's efficiency. Its relatively simple idea really and EE uses high grade aluminum for their product to boot.
Is your question relating to how much residue it could hold before empty?
I was curious to see how much it could hold, especially if I added an extension tube, and because smaller volumes do not slow the velocity of the air flowing through.
Like you mentioned, my plan is just to remove it to drain it. It doesn't take much time to take it out.
How much oil to you accumulate in a given period of time? I would think <1" over a period of a year, which is my estimated oil-change interval.
I think I'm going to copy you and add some additional protection for the hoses at the bottom of the can. Good idea.
Yeah, a perforated heater hose is not a good thing. In my case the bottom sits right up against it, and that is an invitation for Murphy to inject mischief.
I was curious to see how much it could hold, especially if I added an extension tube, and because smaller volumes do not slow the velocity of the air flowing through.
The purpose of the extension tube is to further the distance, when the inlet discharge the oily vapor, vapor has to travel further (original is about an inch), exposing to more surface area, on both the ID/OD (more surface area clings to etc.) before going upward, through the outlet and cycle back into the IM.
You can also see I have attached fins on the outside of the catch can as well as made this to help in terms of cooling the intake vapor to enhance condensation:
Just a principle of doing with what you have to improve the given situation.
The purpose of the extension tube is to further the distance, when the inlet discharge the oily vapor, vapor has to travel further (original is about an inch), exposing to more surface area, on both the ID/OD (more surface area clings to etc.) before going upward, through the outlet and cycle back into the IM.
You can also see I have attached fins on the outside of the catch can as well as made this to help in terms of cooling the intake vapor to enhance condensation:
Just a principle of doing with what you have to improve the given situation.
Kinda new to this, had some older Corvettes apparently with no need for a CC. Have C7 Z06 Z07 ordered and after reading this thread I'm convincedd
that I need this. Thanks fo all the info, suggestions on where to buy one?