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I am going ask a midget racer to use his scales. My car weights 3280# with 3/8 of a tank. Does someone know with the stock starting point such as
LF=24%---------RF=25%
LR=25%---------RR=26%
I plan to start with stock alignment to get a baseline with car stock. Summit Point Shenandoah circuit is the track I want to learn.
Thank you in advance,
Noe
From the factory, it can be all over the place. The assembly plant certainly didn't adjust the trim height tip adjusters to provide a specific corner weight, and as you've probably seen, the stock trim height has a lot of variance.
My 09 Z06 stock wtih 1/4 tank gas was - without driver:
LF: 26.8%
RF: 24.7%
LR: 23.0%
RR: 25.5%
With driver:
LF: 26.8%
RF: 24.3%
LR: 24.1%
RR: 24.8%
Don't forget to disconnect the bars when scaling.
Also, are you trying to set up to stock or are you trying to set up with cross weight difference being near zero?
Should've added - when done, with driver:
LF: 25.9%
RF: 25.2%
LR: 24.8%
RR: 24.1%
Front/rear was 51.1%/48.9%
Left/right was 50.8%/49.2%
Cross weight difference was zero pounds with my co-driver in the car, 19 pounds with me in the car.
The thought is to set the car's suspension to stock so the driver (me) has no excuse not to be in at the least the same ballpark compared to the stock car performance. I am going keep it stock until the driver learns to get the built in performance already there and not used.
Thank for the informative post already in my notebook
Noe
Last edited by PA_BLUE_C6; Feb 8, 2014 at 12:06 PM.
Reason: incomplete
The thought is to set the car's suspension to stock so the driver (me) has no excuse not to be in at the least the same ballpark compared to the stock car performance. I am going keep it stock until the driver learns to get the built in performance already there and not used.
Thank for the informative post already in my notebook
Noe
At the minimum, I'd suggest dialing in some negative camber and setting up the toe settings to be a little more track oriented. It'll help with tire wear. If you want to use stock settings, dial the negative camber to the max setting as specified by GM. Zero toe or a touch of toe-in up front, and I'd run max toe-in in the rear.
Adding negative camber and toe-in at the rear will keep the rear a little more settled and let you refine your driving without overly worrying about the back end stepping out.
We scale cars where I work. What you want to achieve with you in the car, in a driving position is a 50/50 balance. You add the RF+LR versus the LF+RR.
My car is within seven pounds of being equal.
I corner weighted both my '05 and my '08. Both were within a few pounds of being equal diagonally. The '05 M6 had more weight on the front wheels than the '08 A6. The '08 A6 was much closer to 50%/50% front to rear.
At the minimum, I'd suggest dialing in some negative camber and setting up the toe settings to be a little more track oriented. It'll help with tire wear. If you want to use stock settings, dial the negative camber to the max setting as specified by GM. Zero toe or a touch of toe-in up front, and I'd run max toe-in in the rear.
Adding negative camber and toe-in at the rear will keep the rear a little more settled and let you refine your driving without overly worrying about the back end stepping out.
Enjoy yourself!
strange you recommend toe in, as an experienced circle track racer ( nascar modified) we always run toe out to help avoid the car from oushing( under steer). The thing i see with all the people on this forum is tgatctheycfetchugleyvhungvup on scaling the car and forget the one thing that makes that worth while,… if the car gas chassis flex( no triangulated proper roll cage)?those numbers go out the door as the when the car hooks up, the frame will twist and unload and the numbers are useless! And just as a race car chassis grows old , if a driver has run the car over time he can sense the car tire and frame exsperiance fatigue, so with a street car that is occasionally is tracked. If you have frame flex the whole set up is useless
Another thing is a car cannot properly be scaled for any particular track without adding lead weight somewhere in the car no matter what anybody tells you the only way to properly Skalak Hi-Rez to add weight usually in the form a ballast or moving stuff around but in the end to get really right you need a proper cage and lead weight. Some tracks that are flat would take turns will leave it requires as much as 54% real weight
Having built and raced nascar MODIFIEDS. Let me say that driver in or out never made a big differance even in a late model stock car. We would scale the car with a full fuel cel (22 gal) if we wanted the car to run good in the first half of a long distance race , loose/push covv bc dictions can sometimes be adjusted with brake bias/ driver breaking habits changes as the race wore on till next pit stop to top off fuel. Ever watch a race and hear comments about cars running better in short or long runs? It’s all set up and pit strategy. But again, if the car is not stiff enough scaling the car will give you an advantage but not what you would see in a REAL ridged chassis. As good as x5-6-7 cars are, with out a true cage, car will load/unload as it races. On a street car, I don’t see a difference, it’s basically west coast romance bullshit! City streets are cambered and pitched , not flat so this will throw off any weight you dialed in and play havoc with bump steer ( nothing to do with road bumps). Be happy it handles good enough for a sat night cruiser, unless you are a complete idiot, I don’t see many people charging city streets or off ramps at 130 mph