Trailer Frustration
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Warroad MN US Army (Retired) 1976-2001
Trailer Frustration
Spent the better part of this afternoon pulling my C6 out of storage for the winter so I could trailer it down to the body shop for repair. After getting it ready to load and picking up an enclosed trailer from a buddy, in -5 below temps plus wind, we couldn't get the C6 up the ramp without causing damage to the spoiler so we gave up. We'd expected that the angle of the ramp would be sufficient to work but were wrong. Tried a couple different ways to lower the angle but to no success. Plus, had lots of issues with getting traction on the snow pack.
So, after a couple hours of effort and frustration I've had to make the decision to cancel the appointment. I'll have to try and find someone in the area with a low angle trailer ramp or wait till the roads clear enough so I can drive the car to the body shop. Oh well, could have been worse, I could have screwed up the C6 loading, in transport or unloading. Better to deal with another day when the conditions and transport are better suited for the day.
So, after a couple hours of effort and frustration I've had to make the decision to cancel the appointment. I'll have to try and find someone in the area with a low angle trailer ramp or wait till the roads clear enough so I can drive the car to the body shop. Oh well, could have been worse, I could have screwed up the C6 loading, in transport or unloading. Better to deal with another day when the conditions and transport are better suited for the day.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,555
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From: Saint Albans, WV
You could have used 2x10 boards as a stop gap measure and raise the front of the trailer as high as possible to reduce the angle. My enclosed trailer has a low lift angle and I still have to use 67" RaceRamps.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: SOFLA
2016 Corvette of Year
2015 C6 of Year Finalist
was going to suggest the same, the wood boards are needed. I need to use them when trailering to the track
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,250
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From: Philadelphia PA
There are two Race Ramps combo service/trailer ramp models with incline sections that can be inverted and used as trailer ramps. The slopes are not as shallow as most of the Race Ramps dedicated trailer ramps. But the added functionality as trailer ramps could be a useful feature.
The RR-80-10-2 model is a regular Race Ramps product. The incline section has an 8.5 degree incline.
The RLL-80-2 model is a Reverse Logic custom product with an incline section that has a 6.8 degree incline. The incline sections for this model are available separately for someone who does not need the platform for use as a service ramp.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...49&id=19995831
The RR-80-10-2 model is a regular Race Ramps product. The incline section has an 8.5 degree incline.
The RLL-80-2 model is a Reverse Logic custom product with an incline section that has a 6.8 degree incline. The incline sections for this model are available separately for someone who does not need the platform for use as a service ramp.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...49&id=19995831
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Warroad MN US Army (Retired) 1976-2001
Will purchase some 2x10s after work and try this evening but am concerned about them being slick with temps down so low. The snow is sticking to the tires and even reparking it back in the pole barn caused some sliding on the concrete.
I currently own the 2-piece 67" ramps and Xtenders, not sure I want to invest another chunk of change for this event. Guess I should have waited and purchased the combo units.
Fred - do you have any thoughts if I can use the RR-XT-2 67" productinverted like the combo incline unit?
I currently own the 2-piece 67" ramps and Xtenders, not sure I want to invest another chunk of change for this event. Guess I should have waited and purchased the combo units.
Fred - do you have any thoughts if I can use the RR-XT-2 67" productinverted like the combo incline unit?
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 55
From: Philadelphia PA
Inverting the RR-XT-2 incline sections to use as trailer ramps is NOT a good idea. Race Ramps does not really provide detailed specifications for their ramp products. So most people don't realize that the "step" area on the dedicated trailer ramps is reinforced to handle the concentrated weight of the edge of a trailer door or existing ramps on an open trailer.
Since the RR-80-10-2 and RLL-80-2 ramps have incline sections intended to be used as trailer ramps, the steps on the inclines ARE reinforced. Also, the shape of the interlock on these two ramp models is designed for use with trailer doors and ramps when the inclines are inverted.
If you flip the RR-XT-2 inclines for use as trailer ramps, you will almost certainly damage the inclines.
It is unfortunate that you were not aware of the combo service/trailer ramps since they are less expensive and offer more functionality than the combined RR-XT-2 ramps and RR-EX-14 XTenders.
You can probably sell off your existing ramps and upgrade to the new ones for about a $100 investment. The RR-80-10-2 or RLL-80-2 ramps run around $350 +/- $10 after discounts and factory rebates. You should easily be able to sell your RR-XT-2 + RR-EX-14 ramps for $250.
Since the RR-80-10-2 and RLL-80-2 ramps have incline sections intended to be used as trailer ramps, the steps on the inclines ARE reinforced. Also, the shape of the interlock on these two ramp models is designed for use with trailer doors and ramps when the inclines are inverted.
If you flip the RR-XT-2 inclines for use as trailer ramps, you will almost certainly damage the inclines.
It is unfortunate that you were not aware of the combo service/trailer ramps since they are less expensive and offer more functionality than the combined RR-XT-2 ramps and RR-EX-14 XTenders.
You can probably sell off your existing ramps and upgrade to the new ones for about a $100 investment. The RR-80-10-2 or RLL-80-2 ramps run around $350 +/- $10 after discounts and factory rebates. You should easily be able to sell your RR-XT-2 + RR-EX-14 ramps for $250.
Will purchase some 2x10s after work and try this evening but am concerned about them being slick with temps down so low. The snow is sticking to the tires and even reparking it back in the pole barn caused some sliding on the concrete.
I currently own the 2-piece 67" ramps and Xtenders, not sure I want to invest another chunk of change for this event. Guess I should have waited and purchased the combo units.
Fred - do you have any thoughts if I can use the RR-XT-2 67" productinverted like the combo incline unit?
I currently own the 2-piece 67" ramps and Xtenders, not sure I want to invest another chunk of change for this event. Guess I should have waited and purchased the combo units.
Fred - do you have any thoughts if I can use the RR-XT-2 67" productinverted like the combo incline unit?
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CF Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,313
Likes: 25
From: Tucson Arizona
Also, you might be able to find a place where you can get the trailer lower and the car higher....maybe on an incline or backing the trailer up to a high curb (where you can get the car up on the high side). Kind of a 'loading dock' if you will. Your best bet is to use boards/ramps and jacking-up the front of the trailer. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: SOFLA
2016 Corvette of Year
2015 C6 of Year Finalist
Also, you might be able to find a place where you can get the trailer lower and the car higher....maybe on an incline or backing the trailer up to a high curb (where you can get the car up on the high side). Kind of a 'loading dock' if you will. Your best bet is to use boards/ramps and jacking-up the front of the trailer. Good luck.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 55
From: Philadelphia PA
Heavy Duty Race Ramps Roll-ups (RR-RU-HD)
Most people don't realize that Race Ramps are available with a Heavy Duty option for about a $35 upcharge.
You won't find the HD versions listed at the manufacturer's website or at most resellers. I don't know of any resellers that stock the HD models other than Reverse Logic.
The HD Roll-ups are rated at 5000 pounds per pair and will raise the rear tires of your tow vehicle 4". This probably translates to closer to 5" or 6" at the hitch.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...72&id=20368192
You won't find the HD versions listed at the manufacturer's website or at most resellers. I don't know of any resellers that stock the HD models other than Reverse Logic.
The HD Roll-ups are rated at 5000 pounds per pair and will raise the rear tires of your tow vehicle 4". This probably translates to closer to 5" or 6" at the hitch.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...72&id=20368192
Life Starts at 120 mph
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,536
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From: Upstate New York
NCM Lifetime Member
NCM Sinkhole Donor
OK, some applied logic...
There is a group I track with, some trailer thier vettes regularly. Lessons Learned.
1. Large chalk block for the tounge pad. Lower it down as far as you can crank it. Lifitn the Arsss end of the truck and tounge of the trailer. There by decreasing the angle of the rear ramp door. The idea of backing up on ramps would do the trick too.
2. Chalk truck or trailer tires...very important. Safety first
3. 72 inch race ramps on the edge of the ramp door and they are loaded or unloadedin 15 minutes. 2x10s coujld also work.
Good Luck...oh -5 burrrrrr, -8 here and for the next three days.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
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From: turn 12 at Road America or TX
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Warroad MN US Army (Retired) 1976-2001
Thanks everyone - really appreciate the suggestions. We tried to elevate the trailer tongue as much as we were comfortable with. I like the curb ideas but we've got about two feet of snow on the ground everywhere except road so there is no way I can get the C6 up on higher ground.
Here's what I am thinking through now.
- I played with some boards I have over lunch today - I'm very concerned about how slick they are with these low temps and with the hard rubber on the GY OEM tires.
- Thinking that maybe I can push the Vette down the road, about 3/4 mile, over the snow and ice to where I get clear road and then carefully drive it the 45 miles to the body shop this next weekend. Temps are supposed to finally get up around 20 during the daytime.
- Otherwise I may order the combo ramps and try again.
- Last option is to wait till the weather clears and road is passable and just drive it down in May or June. Just hate to let any time pass in the short summers here without driving my C6.
Reactions?
Here's what I am thinking through now.
- I played with some boards I have over lunch today - I'm very concerned about how slick they are with these low temps and with the hard rubber on the GY OEM tires.
- Thinking that maybe I can push the Vette down the road, about 3/4 mile, over the snow and ice to where I get clear road and then carefully drive it the 45 miles to the body shop this next weekend. Temps are supposed to finally get up around 20 during the daytime.
- Otherwise I may order the combo ramps and try again.
- Last option is to wait till the weather clears and road is passable and just drive it down in May or June. Just hate to let any time pass in the short summers here without driving my C6.
Reactions?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 343
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
If the wood is too slick, cut some shallow groves into it with a saw about an inch or two apart. Try not to use it as a bridge, but more like the following picture.
*Disclaimer: I have never done this and personally, I would wait. This is just an idea*
If it is only the front bumper that is the issue, you could use a jack and some jack stands.
1. Line the trailer up first and keep it attached to the truck
2. Jack up the front of the car until the angle is enough that the ramp will clear the bumper.
3. Support it with jack stands so left and right are level.
4. Back the trailer up until the wheels are touching the ramps. Remember, you will lose a few inches when the car is supporting its own weight, so make sure it is high enough.
5. Secure and prepare the trailer, remove the jack stands, and slowly lower the car onto the ramps.
Make sure someone is spotting you on the mid part of the car, as you may bottom out there.
No clue if this would work. I have never put my car on a trailer. I need to use 2 2x10s just to get a older "low profile" jack under it.
*Disclaimer: I have never done this and personally, I would wait. This is just an idea*
If it is only the front bumper that is the issue, you could use a jack and some jack stands.
1. Line the trailer up first and keep it attached to the truck
2. Jack up the front of the car until the angle is enough that the ramp will clear the bumper.
3. Support it with jack stands so left and right are level.
4. Back the trailer up until the wheels are touching the ramps. Remember, you will lose a few inches when the car is supporting its own weight, so make sure it is high enough.
5. Secure and prepare the trailer, remove the jack stands, and slowly lower the car onto the ramps.
Make sure someone is spotting you on the mid part of the car, as you may bottom out there.
No clue if this would work. I have never put my car on a trailer. I need to use 2 2x10s just to get a older "low profile" jack under it.
Last edited by Firewater Burns; Mar 3, 2014 at 02:16 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 508
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From: Warroad MN US Army (Retired) 1976-2001
Thanks for all the suggestions and I've decided it makes best sense to wait until ground and roads are a bit better before trying to load. The snow pack really made traction difficult even getting up to the trailer.
I did some cutting on boards as suggested and elevated them similar to using the trailer. Then drove up on with wife's Explorer and they were still a bit too slippery for my liking.
I'll likely just sell my current ramps to someone and then order a set of the combo ramps as suggested by Fred. May try to convince the guy that owns the trailer, actually has 3 of them, that he ought to buy the combo ramps instead and then I can just use them as needed. He mainly hauls 60's/70's cars with plenty of clearance so hasn't had a need for low ramps/trailer ramps.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
I did some cutting on boards as suggested and elevated them similar to using the trailer. Then drove up on with wife's Explorer and they were still a bit too slippery for my liking.
I'll likely just sell my current ramps to someone and then order a set of the combo ramps as suggested by Fred. May try to convince the guy that owns the trailer, actually has 3 of them, that he ought to buy the combo ramps instead and then I can just use them as needed. He mainly hauls 60's/70's cars with plenty of clearance so hasn't had a need for low ramps/trailer ramps.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,555
Likes: 1,255
From: Saint Albans, WV
I doubt you can get enough traction to get in the trailer without slipping sideways with any snow or ice on the ground. You've got the right idea about waiting. BTW, if you've never put your car in a trailer before you may want to pull your side mirrors in. That door guide wire can come out of nowhere.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Warroad MN US Army (Retired) 1976-2001
Took another look today at trying to load the car, and then after speaking with the body shop on timing, we both agree that it makes sense to hold till later this year to get the repairs done. No problem from my perspective, we're getting another dump of snow this evening so I don't expect to be on the roads anytime soon.