coolant temperature
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles Ca
coolant temperature
On the the way to work today the devil took over my common sense.
I floored my 2005 MZ51 to beat out poor soul who I should have just let him go.
Afterwords I got a message check coolant level. Checked it it was fine. Message went away.
However coolant temperature hit 237 . I don't recall ever seeing that.
after a a while of easy driving it went back down to 195. But at stop lights it crept back up again. Its cooling down now in the office garage. Oil tempt was always fine.
btw - its got a new water pump and radiator in it. Just had all fluids changed about a month ago
anyone else experience anything like that?
how do you spell head gasket ?
I floored my 2005 MZ51 to beat out poor soul who I should have just let him go.
Afterwords I got a message check coolant level. Checked it it was fine. Message went away.
However coolant temperature hit 237 . I don't recall ever seeing that.
after a a while of easy driving it went back down to 195. But at stop lights it crept back up again. Its cooling down now in the office garage. Oil tempt was always fine.
btw - its got a new water pump and radiator in it. Just had all fluids changed about a month ago
anyone else experience anything like that?
how do you spell head gasket ?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40,898
Likes: 4,351
From: Lakewood Ranch, FL
When sitting, the temp will always creep up until you reach the fan on temp. (204* start unless it has been changed in a tune).
You may have an air bubble in the coolant from the fill. That is not uncommon if not done correctly. Search the forum for burping the cooling system.
You may have an air bubble in the coolant from the fill. That is not uncommon if not done correctly. Search the forum for burping the cooling system.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
On the the way to work today the devil took over my common sense.
I floored my 2005 MZ51 to beat out poor soul who I should have just let him go.
Afterwords I got a message check coolant level. Checked it it was fine. Message went away.
However coolant temperature hit 237 . I don't recall ever seeing that.
after a a while of easy driving it went back down to 195. But at stop lights it crept back up again. Its cooling down now in the office garage. Oil tempt was always fine.
btw - its got a new water pump and radiator in it. Just had all fluids changed about a month ago
anyone else experience anything like that?
how do you spell head gasket ?
I floored my 2005 MZ51 to beat out poor soul who I should have just let him go.
Afterwords I got a message check coolant level. Checked it it was fine. Message went away.
However coolant temperature hit 237 . I don't recall ever seeing that.
after a a while of easy driving it went back down to 195. But at stop lights it crept back up again. Its cooling down now in the office garage. Oil tempt was always fine.
btw - its got a new water pump and radiator in it. Just had all fluids changed about a month ago
anyone else experience anything like that?
how do you spell head gasket ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 70
From: Memphis Tn
anyone actually know? if so, the correct answer needs to be added to the faq.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
On the 2005 stock tune, the fan does not go to 90% until the temp gets up to 225*.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
221, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
221, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
Last edited by Dano523; Mar 5, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 70
From: Memphis Tn
On the 2005 stock tune, the fan does not go to 90% until the temp gets up to 225*.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
231, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
231, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
When sitting, the temp will always creep up until you reach the fan on temp. (204* start unless it has been changed in a tune).
You may have an air bubble in the coolant from the fill. That is not uncommon if not done correctly. Search the forum for burping the cooling system.
You may have an air bubble in the coolant from the fill. That is not uncommon if not done correctly. Search the forum for burping the cooling system.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 11
From: Newport, RI
FIRST thing you gotta do on these cars is take a flashlight and look up inside where the air comes in front bumper. I have pulled plenty of plastic bags and leaves and other stuff out of there, which was blocking air flow and thus causing overheating......
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles Ca
Its the Fan
Thanks for all the input. Engine icon came on on the way home. Called On Star - the told me coolant sensor. Took the car this AM - turns out that the fan is not coming on. Always something -
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
Same here...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
On the 2005 stock tune, the fan does not go to 90% until the temp gets up to 225*.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
221, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
I'm looking at the stock table right now from my 2005 corvette HP tune file (system/fan) and it looks like this.
199*, fan at 15%
203, fan at 23
207, fan at 31
210, fan at 39
214, fan at 47
217, fan at 56
221, fan at 74
225, fan at 90%
As for lowering the fan temps per speed amount the fan is going to run, its a double edge sword. The problems lies in the connector for the fan, and if the fan runs too long at at higher percentage, then it burns up the connector. This is pretty much why GM limited the fan to 90% output max, and why it does not go to that until you get to higher temps. So when you do lower the fan run percentages per temp, don't go buck wild and have the fan running 90 at normal temps!!!
P.S, with a new radiator, I going with air still in the system, and will bank that when the installed the new T stat, it did not have a air bleed passage on it.
On this T stat, the brass piece on the flange of the stat allows air to be released out of the system, even when the T stat is closed (nubby piece installs dead center top).
On the stock T stat, no bleed channel in the top of the flange, so the pressure has to be great enough to allow the air to be forced down and through once the T stat starts to open up instead, and traps air in the system a lot longer until is self bleeds with the T stat opened instead. To solve this problem with a stock T stat, you just drill a 1/8 hole through the flange at the same location that the first T stat has the brass numb, hence so the channel is at the top of the flange with the T stat installed. This allows small amounts of fluid and air to pass through the stat when it closed, instead of having two vacuum areas in the system on either side of the T stat that will trap air when you are filling the system back up.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 16,014
Likes: 829
I apologize that you are experiencing concerns with the Vette. Have you already taken it in to the dealership then? Let me know if you would like me to look into this further for you and I would be happy to. If this sounds like a plausible idea please private message me your contact information, VIN, and the dealership name/location. I will be looking forward to your response and I hope to hear from you soon.
Jennie R.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 4
From: Austin TX
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,022
Likes: 2,714
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
We have drained/refilled our 2009 three times. Used the procedure in the Service Manual and never had a bit of trouble. I'd post it here but don't have that manual with me right now.