Spring Start Up
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,882
Likes: 141
From: Toronto Ontario
Spring Start Up
What is the theory behind depressing the fuel pedal to the floor after winter storage and would it apply to the GS with dry sump. I believe the fuel is cut off but the oil pump primes. I was thinking about using this method on spring start up and was wondering how long or how many times do you do this before you actually start it?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 148
From: 1000 Islands Ontario
Depressing the GO pedal while cranking the engine is known as Flood Mode, and it WILL work on your GS. This process turns off the injectors, so no fuel will go to the cylinders while cranking.
This builds up oil pressure prior to the engine starting.
I use flood mode a lot, not just for Spring startup. I use it about mid way through the winter - just to circulate the oil without actually starting.
During the summer, the C6 may sit for a week or two at a time, so after a "C-TEK" (battery tender), I depress the brake pedal, floor it (keeping the GO pedal depressed), and push the Start button. After a few seconds, I push the Stop button (although it probably will time out and stop cranking by itself).
During Spring startup, I repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times.
I always bring the battery up to snuff prior to invoking Flood Mode.
Nothing like that sweet sound of the LS3 firing up after a 4 month winter snooze. I can't wait for Spring.
Hope this helps,
M....
This builds up oil pressure prior to the engine starting.
I use flood mode a lot, not just for Spring startup. I use it about mid way through the winter - just to circulate the oil without actually starting.
During the summer, the C6 may sit for a week or two at a time, so after a "C-TEK" (battery tender), I depress the brake pedal, floor it (keeping the GO pedal depressed), and push the Start button. After a few seconds, I push the Stop button (although it probably will time out and stop cranking by itself).
During Spring startup, I repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times.
I always bring the battery up to snuff prior to invoking Flood Mode.
Nothing like that sweet sound of the LS3 firing up after a 4 month winter snooze. I can't wait for Spring.
Hope this helps,
M....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,882
Likes: 141
From: Toronto Ontario
Depressing the GO pedal while cranking the engine is known as Flood Mode, and it WILL work on your GS. This process turns off the injectors, so no fuel will go to the cylinders while cranking.
This builds up oil pressure prior to the engine starting.
I use flood mode a lot, not just for Spring startup. I use it about mid way through the winter - just to circulate the oil without actually starting.
During the summer, the C6 may sit for a week or two at a time, so after a "C-TEK" (battery tender), I depress the brake pedal, floor it (keeping the GO pedal depressed), and push the Start button. After a few seconds, I push the Stop button (although it probably will time out and stop cranking by itself).
During Spring startup, I repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times.
I always bring the battery up to snuff prior to invoking Flood Mode.
Nothing like that sweet sound of the LS3 firing up after a 4 month winter snooze. I can't wait for Spring.
Hope this helps,
M....
This builds up oil pressure prior to the engine starting.
I use flood mode a lot, not just for Spring startup. I use it about mid way through the winter - just to circulate the oil without actually starting.
During the summer, the C6 may sit for a week or two at a time, so after a "C-TEK" (battery tender), I depress the brake pedal, floor it (keeping the GO pedal depressed), and push the Start button. After a few seconds, I push the Stop button (although it probably will time out and stop cranking by itself).
During Spring startup, I repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times.
I always bring the battery up to snuff prior to invoking Flood Mode.
Nothing like that sweet sound of the LS3 firing up after a 4 month winter snooze. I can't wait for Spring.
Hope this helps,
M....
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 475
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville TX
This probably not the best technical answer. There will be some oil drain off back into the oil pan. This will leave the internals with less oil on them at fire up. The check ball with our oil filter helps some with this. This will happen. The car sits a long time and is started. The will be a short time there is no oil pressure. The car is put into flood mode. The starter is turning the engine over. This is not much different has turning it by hand. The starter just turns it a little faster. This will allow oil to just circulate through the crank, rods, cam, and lifters with little stress to get oil pressure to build up first. Once the engine actually fires up and running, there is a lot of violent actions happening. The explosion of firing in the cylinder to send the piston back down is about the same principle of taking a big hammer and hitting the top of the piston to send it down. You can imagine the force and impact this will have on the rod and crank bearings. It is better to pre pressure the oil before actual start up. I hope I made a little sense and didn't ramble on too much.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Of awareness
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 65
From: Tree City
It is the same thing when you change oil and first start it up. You will have a few seconds when there is no oil going through the engine and the RPMs are a lot higher when you start the engine.
So you can either chose to start the engine and run it for a few seconds at a higher RPM with no oil in the engine. Or you can start it up and already have everything lubricated from turning it over slowly to pump oil through the engine.
It is the difference of running the engine with or without oil for the first few seconds after start up.
So you can either chose to start the engine and run it for a few seconds at a higher RPM with no oil in the engine. Or you can start it up and already have everything lubricated from turning it over slowly to pump oil through the engine.
It is the difference of running the engine with or without oil for the first few seconds after start up.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 8
From: Clearwater Florida
Some big commercial diesels use Pre-oilers for this same purpose. These accumulate oil under pressure and can release the oil thru the engine just before start-up.
Most agree the most wear occurs at start-up because of the oil drain back. Even worse if a cheap oil filter's anti-drain-back check valve isn't working like it should to keep the oil up in the block. After sitting a long time or after changing oil, some like to crank the engine without actually starting the car to pump oil through the engine to the crank mains, cam, lifters, etc. Ever notice how some car's lifters will clatter for a second after starting? Usually, this is a sign that the oil is draining back and the motor is starting dry.
Most agree the most wear occurs at start-up because of the oil drain back. Even worse if a cheap oil filter's anti-drain-back check valve isn't working like it should to keep the oil up in the block. After sitting a long time or after changing oil, some like to crank the engine without actually starting the car to pump oil through the engine to the crank mains, cam, lifters, etc. Ever notice how some car's lifters will clatter for a second after starting? Usually, this is a sign that the oil is draining back and the motor is starting dry.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,749
Likes: 50
From: Westmont Il.
Same principle as using a drill to run the oil pump on a fresh motor before starting it, isn't it?
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,882
Likes: 141
From: Toronto Ontario
Same principle as using a drill to run the oil pump on a fresh motor before starting it, isn't it?
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Best Island in the U.S.
St. Jude Donor '12 thru '17
Same principle as using a drill to run the oil pump on a fresh motor before starting it, isn't it?
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
I've just been paranoid to try it, that mine will start and red line.
Think I'll hold my breath and do it tomorrow. Cars been sitting for weeks. I'll be watching the oil pressure gauge.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,749
Likes: 50
From: Westmont Il.
No, it's nothing like using a drill to spin the oil pump. When you do that you're only turning the oil pump, not moving the crank, cam, pistons, etc. When you floor the accelerator and turn the motor over you're turning everything exactly like it was starting or running. There's really no difference in building oil pressure with the engine running or not if you're turning it over with the starter.
Turning the motor over in a no start condition is building as much oil pressure as cranking speed allows. Is that a good thing? I don't know. Might just increase starter wear.
The rationale behind the topic's procedure is to have some oil pressure at the critical moment of ignition. This would be more important if ignition is instantaneous, I would think.
edit: Nothing about this in the owners manual.
Last edited by Joe B.; Mar 10, 2014 at 11:33 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,749
Likes: 50
From: Westmont Il.
Well, here's what I found doing the procedure on my A6, parking brake on, just in case.
Remove foot from gas (foot still on brake) and the car will start normally.
Remove foot from brake with foot still on gas, car will crank for a few seconds, then stop.
Remove foot from gas and brake simultaneously and the car will continue to crank until it starts.
Repeating this procedure while there is still pressure in the fuel lines made the car sputter then continue to crank.
Nothing registers on the oil pressure gauge during cranking due to the accessory electrical system shut down during cranking.
FWIW: On cold start, I usually get a minute or two of the much discussed slight "clatter". I did not notice any this time after the "long crank". Can't really be sure though after just one try.
Remove foot from gas (foot still on brake) and the car will start normally.
Remove foot from brake with foot still on gas, car will crank for a few seconds, then stop.
Remove foot from gas and brake simultaneously and the car will continue to crank until it starts.
Repeating this procedure while there is still pressure in the fuel lines made the car sputter then continue to crank.
Nothing registers on the oil pressure gauge during cranking due to the accessory electrical system shut down during cranking.
FWIW: On cold start, I usually get a minute or two of the much discussed slight "clatter". I did not notice any this time after the "long crank". Can't really be sure though after just one try.
