My winter project was to install JOC Stage 1 shocks and sways with Quantum brake cooling duct kit.

Was lucky to get the Pfadt parts before they closed up. Installation went well for the shocks and sways. The brake cooling ducts were easy too but I need to twist the ducts to make sure they cleared the inside of the wheels when at the steering lock. I used a Strap Wrench to twist the hose at the hub end and tightened down the clamp.



I used the tie wraps until I was sure they would not rub on the wheel at full lock - later removed them.

Just a note on securing the wheel speed sensor connector - since you need to remove the stock bracket and the instructions are a bit vague this is how I did it.




3 tie wraps on each one to secure it to the wire routing bracket.

After getting the GS on the road I heard a clicking noise when going around corners over bumps etc and I assumed an end link was loose or I had missed torquing something down fully. Got back under the car and sure enough found the end links were not full torqued down on the rear lower control arms. Tightened them up and tried again - still heard clicking noise.

Next step: searched in Corvette Forum under "end links" wondering if this was just lash in the new heim joints and what to do to fix it. Read through many threads and picked up on a lot of members talking about the differential fluid and the diff clutches chattering - the sound was more of a sharp click but bought the diff fluid at GM and changed it out.

Followed:

When done I put 2.9 litres of Diff fluid in and only drained 2 litres out. The diff was low by a litre since new (2010 GS). Did the 10 figure 8's in a parking lot and the clicking is gone!! This weekend I am going to charge the gearbox lube - I hope it is full.

 

Aren't you going to get a lot of wear in the movement of that duct?

 

Where do you think the wear will occur? The tie wraps are gone.

 

My shop manual says the diff capacity is 2.01 liters.

 

Maybe it's just the pic, but it looked like the duct was very close to the shock. Or, did it go farther away when you took of the ties?

 

No problem with clearing the shock which is inside the control arms + further away from the control arm without the ties.

Will be changing the transmission fluid tomorrow and will recheck the diff fluid level. Maybe with the diff cooler the capacity is higher??

 

You may want to pay closer attention to cutting your tye-wraps closer to the head. They are sharp!

I think your cooler is probably where the extra diff fluid went. Other than that, the ducts look great! I need to do this on mine too, I've already gone through a set of brake pads at 13k.