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1. It uses a Beehive heat shield to reduce engine heat from entering the air intake.
2. It relocates the MAF sensor forward instead of sitting above the radiator hose absorbing heat.
3. Build quality is very good.
4. No tuning required, however you will achieve better results with a custom tune, as with any CAI.
5. Performance above 4k rpm felt like the car pulled a little harder, but no noticeable difference below 4k rpm. With a Diablew custom tune, the whole rpm range improved. I will not get into tuning details, but this is why I believe any time you change the fuel metering on an engine ( CAI, throttle body, headers) a tune is highly recommended to achieve maximum performance.
Same reasons I went to his latest, the 105S. Did open up the shroud on the driver's side a bit, as it needs more outside air than it would get with just the stock opening on passenger side. In concert with Intune and Bullets, the car is running the way I want. As has been discussed, the Hitachi MAF is much more sensitive to turbulence which will cause surging. That's why the propped shroud I had on my '06 didn't work: slight surging. Halltech's design, MAF forward, is even more sensitive, but not a problem with the rather small opening I made to the shroud. Plenty of outside air and the Beehive shields engine heat nicely. Plus gets rid of the silencers on the stock unit which I didn't like.
I had my doubts about CAI's but tried a Vararam with a tune and I can definitely say it provided better throttle response and power. That being said, I decided to go back to stock because I didn't like how it blocked air to the radiator and I didn't like the exposure to water, dirt, etc... I guess the moral of my story is there is a give and take for every mod and you'll just need to decide what works best for you.
I'm having headers n a Dyno tune done in a week and after Much debate and reading. I decided to stick w the stock setup on my 13' GS . For the 300-500$ price tag of a Cai and most Dont provide any additional power gains I decided I'll put the $ else for a future mod like Fast intake etc where gains are better made
Unless you're actually pulling in cold air from outside the engine bay, don't waste your money.
I recommend the Vararam or KillerBee. Anything else is no better than stock, as well as letting in far more fine dirt and dust while offering zero gains.
Track testing with the VaraRam only, no tune, produced several tenths reduction in 1/4 mile times.
If this is the kind of gains you're after, this intake is a good choice. Add headers/exhaust and a tune and the results are much more significant.
This topic has been very thoroughly discussed, repeatedly, on the Forum.
Try a Search, VaraRam/ChuckCOW for some actual 'scientific' results.
My personal experience with VaraRam has been excellent. I've had all 3 versions of their LS2 intake. Very well engineered and manufactured, and their customer service has been great.
A true "CAI" will increase performance by reducing or preventing timing retard from hotter under hood air temps. Also from what I have read in the past every 10 degrees reduction in intake temps will add approx. 1% Hp naturally aspirated.
The system (thread) below will not reduce the size of the grill opening or get hit by water like the vararam and most likely at speed may have some pressure build up in that area. I do not have this on my car but from what little I know this would be my pick from the aftermarket. The oem Z06 housing that I converted to a cai, something similar to the below set-up but with not as large of an intake filter area was worth 3 tenths improvement over the stock Z06 intake (best to best). It's your call but if I were to buy something I don't want "BS" and remember: Quality (performance) is long remembered after the price is forgotten.
I'm having headers n a Dyno tune done in a week and after Much debate and reading. I decided to stick w the stock setup on my 13' GS . For the 300-500$ price tag of a Cai and most Dont provide any additional power gains I decided I'll put the $ else for a future mod like Fast intake etc where gains are better made
Actual power gains for a CAI are not realized on a dyno, since the car is not moving. You need to go to the dragstrip to see the difference.
A FAST is a good choice for the LS2, but makes only a small difference on a LS3. It's twice the cost of a CAI to get half the power.
Maybe all you want is more SOTP feeling and a dyno chart for car shows, but if you want more actual performance you'll need a CAI.
It's pretty simple.
Max performance - Vararam
Max filtration - OEM
Anything else is a compromise.
this has been a good thread for me because I've been struggling to believe intakes do much on these cars.
I am suspecting that when people see gains with just the intake and no tuning that it's the relocation of the sensor tricking the ECU and that you could get the same results as part of a tune and just leaving it in the OEM location. If I'm right, this explains the "gains" the all the manufacturers claim and why it's a slight of hand.
I think the real test of my theory would be to tune a stock car on a dyno and run it. Then revert the ECU back to stock, install an intake run it for numbers again. Then tune it with the intake and run it again. Compare ALL the pulls and see what happened. The tuner would need to be honest enough not to manipulate the tunes to show results he wants.
it's all very debatable since adding ducting to a filter in a stock location is not a CAI either. physically moving the filter to a fender or some other location would be a real CAI.
the stock design is good and does have some ducting to it, plus when you're moving all the heat is back on the firewall
this is why I would like to see a test like the one I proposed done, we can answer this with science.
From: If you wanna live life on your own terms, you gotta be willing to crash and burn Florida
I put a Vararam on my C6 and there is a big difference. It's sucking fresh cooler air from the front of the car, how could it not? Install takes about 3 hours, but well worth it.
I put a Vararam on my C6 and there is a big difference. It's sucking fresh cooler air from the front of the car, how could it not? Install takes about 3 hours, but well worth it.
Until you have to clean your throttle body due to dirt and grit getting by the filter because of its cheapness of seals material and construction...and the same three hours plus again or more and that you've hacked your shroud so you need a new one to return to stock and it cost about triple what it is worth in materials...otherwise its about 1 tenth as good as Halltech stuff. imo...
Cooler IAT means less timing is pulled and that means using more of the HP the car came with. That it improves (adds) HP simply by being cooler is a side benefit. Even if you don't change the intake filter arrangement, a heat shield like the Halltech Beehive or the stand alone advertised here on the forum simply makes sense. The heat from the engine is the big culprit, imo. In combination with getting outside air into the shroud airbox, which is what it is, by modding the Halltech Superbee, I think you get both benefits. This discussion always goes round and round. In the end, you pay your money and make your choice.
I was looking for a thread where at least 2 or more people agreed on something.
My bad, carry on!
Originally Posted by hawkgfr
Until you have to clean your throttle body due to dirt and grit getting by the filter because of its cheapness of seals material and construction...and the same three hours plus again or more and that you've hacked your shroud so you need a new one to return to stock and it cost about triple what it is worth in materials...otherwise its about 1 tenth as good as Halltech stuff. imo...
Here ya go Hammy. I agree with hawkgfr.
Like my Hallteck esp with the way LG did the install to get cold air and no water.
Had a buddy hydrolock and blow a hole in his block running a vararam thru 3in of water on I35 here in TX. Had it towed to LG for a new engine and Hallteck intake.