Trunk/hatch button question
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 977
Likes: 28
From: Lynchburg VA
If you just took the button off, which is what the description of what you found would lend me to believe, you can also actually split the switch body about half way up. That is where the corrosion that I posted about finding earlier actually lives.
I did the same thing right after I bought my 2013. The date code was 2005 on the switch in my 2013 Grand Sport. It must have been on the shelf for quite some time. There was some grit and grime in mine. I cleaned it out, reinstalled it, and tested it. The switch worked two or three times and quit. I thought I'm going to take it apart and see what the condition of the actual contacts look like. What the hell if I break it they are around $20 bucks with shipping. So I did and the contacts were literally green with corrosion. I used some 400 grit sand paper to clean them up. Then I applied some dielectric grease, reinstalled the switch, and then voila it works like a charm.
Here is the link at GM Partshouse: Base Grand Sport Both $17.71+Shipping
Most likely the same switch. There should be no difference. Especially since I believe that the same switch was used on C5 as well. Probably why the date code on my switch is 8 years older than the car itself.
I did the same thing right after I bought my 2013. The date code was 2005 on the switch in my 2013 Grand Sport. It must have been on the shelf for quite some time. There was some grit and grime in mine. I cleaned it out, reinstalled it, and tested it. The switch worked two or three times and quit. I thought I'm going to take it apart and see what the condition of the actual contacts look like. What the hell if I break it they are around $20 bucks with shipping. So I did and the contacts were literally green with corrosion. I used some 400 grit sand paper to clean them up. Then I applied some dielectric grease, reinstalled the switch, and then voila it works like a charm.
Here is the link at GM Partshouse: Base Grand Sport Both $17.71+Shipping
Most likely the same switch. There should be no difference. Especially since I believe that the same switch was used on C5 as well. Probably why the date code on my switch is 8 years older than the car itself.
Last edited by jsucraig; Jul 5, 2014 at 12:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland Heights Ohio
Thanks, jsucraig---
I just ordered the new switch and we'll see how it goes. Have a couple of big road trips coming up and I'll be happy if the button works again. If not I'll get into the switch and try what you said.
Thanks for the info and the link.
I just ordered the new switch and we'll see how it goes. Have a couple of big road trips coming up and I'll be happy if the button works again. If not I'll get into the switch and try what you said.
Thanks for the info and the link.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Are you a locksmith? THIS guy is.
. However any lock manufacturer will tell you not to put wd40 in your cylinder. First because they use a teflon lubricant at the factory and mixing lubricants will gum up the tumblers.(much like mixing snyth oil with traditional oil) Lock manufactures also have their own lubricants they trademark. All that aside liquid lubricants will trap more dirt inside in a dusty environment so what seems like a quick fix is actually going to make it worse in the long run. In closing No I am not a locksmith but I don't throw an opinion out there unless I know WTF I'm talking about. Graphite powder is best for locks. If youve screwed it up so bad that it wont help Then a teflon spray would be best followed by a flushing with degreaser after its worked loose, then the powder.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 977
Likes: 28
From: Lynchburg VA
Glad the new switch worked out for you. Now clean the other up and keep it in the glove box with a T15 Torx Screwdriver. The next time it gets gunked up slap the other in real quick and off you go.
