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I can't get the button to work under the lid above the license plate that pops the trunk open... It used to... I looked in the owners manual (and I'm trying it holding the fob). The fob opens the trunk as well as the button on the dash, just not the one on the outside of the car. Could I have changed a setting or something? Also, how can I get the settings for door locking, etc., back to default?
Thanks
Last edited by richietables; Jul 2, 2014 at 03:00 PM.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Just a thought I've done this myself and not hard to do and you won"t believe the amount of dirt that gets in there. I'm going to have to do mine again soon as it's fifty-fifty these days if it works at all.
Richietables -- I cleaned mine a few times over the course of ownership. If that doesn't work (or it stops working) they are fairly cheap to replace as well.
On a somewhat related note: When using the key, it doesn't seem to rotate very easily. I've not tried to lube it yet, but it worries me if I ever have to use it as a last-ditch attempt to enter the car and the key breaks off.
Are they all like this, or will some lube fix it up?
on a somewhat related note: When using the key, it doesn't seem to rotate very easily. I've not tried to lube it yet, but it worries me if i ever have to use it as a last-ditch attempt to enter the car and the key breaks off.
Are they all like this, or will some lube fix it up?
And then cover the key hole to help keep dirt out. The back of the car is a very dirty place. I covered mine with a piece of electrical tape with the end folded over to make a tab. Keeps it clean for the one time in a million when you will need it.
I didn't even know about that button until a couple months ago when reading a post on here. So I instantly went to check mine out. You could not push it in at all. I just ordered a new one from the dealer, I believe less than $30.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Since mine is a DD, I push that button several times a week. That will tend to keep it cleaner. I also put tape over the key hole to keep dirt out of there because I only test that once a year when I do the license plate sticker.
Mine doesn't work either, I've tried cleaning it and replacing it with a new one with no luck.
Keep in mind that the button always requires the fob to be present in front of it, whether the car is locked or not. Otherwise, it's time to get out the continuity meter and start checking connections.
When lubricating things, please remember that WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.
It is a Water Dispersant. While it will act as a lubricant short term, it will soon evaporate leaving a residue that attracts dirt and makes things worse in the long run.
While you are at it go ahead and split the switch to clean the corrosion off of the contacts and add some dielectric grease to prevent further water ingress and corrosion.
Keep in mind that the button always requires the fob to be present in front of it, whether the car is locked or not. Otherwise, it's time to get out the continuity meter and start checking connections.
I've tried with both fobs inches away from the button, hatch works fine with fob button and interior button. Think I read a thread on here somewhere to check the connectors behind the tail lights for corrosion so that will probably be my next step.
I've tried with both fobs inches away from the button, hatch works fine with fob button and interior button. Think I read a thread on here somewhere to check the connectors behind the tail lights for corrosion so that will probably be my next step.
While it is true that there was a thread on here about corrosion in the connector behind the taillights, his problem was also no third brake light. I would still pull the switch button first, check for voltage at the switch connector, and proper seating of the pins in that connector.
While it is true that there was a thread on here about corrosion in the connector behind the taillights, his problem was also no third brake light. I would still pull the switch button first, check for voltage at the switch connector, and proper seating of the pins in that connector.
I don't know for sure, but I don't think the taillight harness runs these switch wires. I would pull the button and the carpet behind it first and check these connections. Bypass the switch and see if the trunk opens.
I took the switch out and cleaned it this afternoon- There was quite a bit of dust and grit in there. After I put it back together it worked two or three times and then quit again.