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Having an issue with FOB2. Not working at all, has a brand new battery in it.
FOB2 when I first bought the car worked with no issues. FOB2 has been sitting on the key hanger in the house for the past 4 years since I always use FOB1. Just wanted to try 2 after all these years and nothing.... car doesnt seem to recognize it
Can I just re program #2 without wiping out both 1 &2 ? for the re program?
No. IF you have to reprogram, you will have to erase all existing FOBs and start over, the first FOB programmed will be #1, the second one programmed will be #2.
Try the "test the glove box slot" procedure in here (2nd paragraph.....under "C6 FOB Programming Instructions") to see if the car recognizes the FOB now:
If it worked before then you have a bad battery or it's installed upside down. The fob doesn't have any "programming", just an identity for the car to recognise.
If it worked before then you have a bad battery or it's installed upside down. The fob doesn't have any "programming", just an identity for the car to recognise.
That would be my first check. Be careful to wipe off the battery, because oils from your hand can interfere, as well. If the fob is good, it should be able to be recognized in the slot, even with a battery upside-down or missing.
Hence pull the fob apart and give the entire fob a good electrical contract cleaner cleaning. Also, check the battery/contract prong's in cause they need to be tweaked to make a good contract with the board/battery.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Originally Posted by haljensen
If it worked before then you have a bad battery or it's installed upside down. The fob doesn't have any "programming", just an identity for the car to recognise.
Every FOB has a unique number. Programming only tells the car to remember that number. That part of the car's memory is permanent in the BCM. You should never have to tell the car the number a second time unless you are adding or subtracting new FOB numbers to the car's memory.
Your issue is either the FOB has a circuit problem typically only caused by mechanical stress (dropping or otherwise stressing components) or, most likely, it is not getting power. Are you sure the new battery is good? They are known to occasionally be bad directly from the store. I would try another battery. They aren't that expensive and will easily last for 10 years or more in a drawer if you find that isn't the problem.
Another less-likely possibility:
In the past 4 years, has the car been back to a dealer for service? If so, is it possible that they had to do any work in which they might have had to reset the fob controller -- possibly re-adding the fob you provided for service, thus leaving the "spare" fob that was at home un-registered?
I think Al's suggestion of a bad battery or time-corroded contacts is far more likely, but just throwing the above out there in case everything else dead-ends.
No never been serviced at the dealer...hell no! ...I do my own service on my car. The battery is good I checked it with my volt meter...reading 3.07V... May try that...pull it apart and clean it with contact cleaner as Dano suggested.
Last edited by crusher1; Oct 12, 2014 at 08:49 PM.
Back in business .....Cleaned the board with CRC contact cleaner(as Dano suggested). plus I noticed the +ve contact prongs on the battery holder were a bit out of whack..I tweaked them a touch and bingo she works again .
Thanks guys for all the input
Last edited by crusher1; Oct 12, 2014 at 10:15 PM.
Back in business .....Cleaned the board with CRC contact cleaner(as Dano suggested). plus I noticed the +ve contact prongs on the battery holder were a bit out of whack..I tweaked them a touch and bingo she works again .
Thanks guys for all the input
Since you now have a can of contract cleaner, would be a good time to clean the door pads, and the hatch release button above the license plate.
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